so i have read the instructions on how to crank my bars, i understand it fully, my question is how much do you t-bar experts think it will take, to level my truck? here's a side profile shot of my truck...

 

7 full turns.

 

should be about the same both sides? or like 7 d, 5.5-6 p?

 

make sure you do the same amount of turns on both sides.

i would suggest starting off at like 4 full turns, and see where that puts you... dont forget to take the weight off of the suspension b4 you do it.

 

of course, thanks for your help!

 

don't go to far but 3 to 4 turns each should be a good start

 

7 might be a little much now that I think about it. I can't remember exactly how many turns mine are cranked.

 

i'll try 3, go for a drive, measure and check it out, i just want it to sit nice and level... it's going to the body shop next monday, so i'm going to see if they will do an alignment while it's there...

 

correct me if i'm wrong, but if the front end is sitting, say 2" too low, when the wheels are off the ground, the difference before and after is not going to be 2", is it?

like with the wheels off the ground, 2 inches of change, is not going to be 2 inches with the truck sitting on the tires... is it?

 

the crank only changes the height when it is sitting on the tires, , on jackstands it will be at full droop, same as always , no change there,

so you have to crank them a few turns than set it back on the wheels to see, and if not enough do it again, , just remember that you can only crank them so far , after that it can cause severe angle on the cv joint which will cause them to bind and destroy themselves,
unless you go to a high angle cv joint which is a wee bit costly,

 

If you're not getting an alignment until at least next week, then I would wait until then. Unless that's already what you're planning to do.

 

i've got 3 days off, starting tomorrow, and the truck goes in monday, i won't really have a chance to do it other than then... i can't see an inch or what ever making a huge difference, in 3 days of driving...

 

As long as you're not doing much driving then you'll be fine. Just don't want your tires getting screwed up.

 

mine are nearly maxed. lol

when they sag. i put in coilovers.

 

i don't tihnk i'm going to be doing enough driving in the 3 days, it will be about... 160 miles of commute driving though...

tyler, how many miles do you have on your truck? does it sit level, and do you have suspension lift in the back?

 

i have almost 40k miles on mine. and its been cranked since it had 8k miles on it.

i dont have anything done to the suspension yet.

it used to sit level. but i cranked them when i had a toolbox on it and a spare in the back. recently i took out the tool box which had ~250 lbs of stuff. and a 50lb spare give or take a few lbs. so i cranked them a bit more the other day to make it sit more level.

 

that's messed... needing the t-bars completely cranked to sit level... i've got 71000 km on mine, which is about 44-45k miles

 

if the bolts that are in holding the bars up now are not long enough to get you up to level , we by that i mean the guys over at explorer forum put in longer bolts,, i think they are m12x1,75 100mm
the keys will accept a longer bolt ,just be careful backing out the other one, go slow, ,

 

i think mine should be fine, but that is a good idea... is there any benifet of going to like pre-keys over just cranking?

i am honestly thinking about getting the sharp angle CV's and just bolts, for the front end lift on my truck, that will give me the best ground clearance...

 

on that topic, a preliminary search of sharp angle CV joints, turned up nothing, other than they can be used on driveshafts and axle shafts... but who makes them, how expensive are they... where do i get them?

 

you wont need the prekey mod.

we have the last year of the "pre-key"

 

ahhh, well, what IS the pre-key mod? i was under the impression that it was changing the tortion keys...

so let me rephrase, any difference between cranking the **** out of my bars, or changing the keys?

 

hmmm, changing the keys just sets the index spot at a different location, it just allows you to put more pressure on the bars, as the keyway is in a different location in relation to the clock face,,

this makes the ride alot firmer, to the point of being harsh and uncomfortable,

 

but is there any noticeable difference between that and cranking them?

why would anyone go and spend the money to get new keys, when new bolts are A) a lot cheaper, and B) a lot easier to put in...

 

You're an 07. You don't need to do the keys. There is after market keys that give you like 3" of lift but those wear the crap out of your front end REALLY fast, give you a crappy(er) ride, and absolutely KILL your CV's.