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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 11-01-2006
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T-Bar Lift Tips and How to..

I am finally going to cranks my t-bars to level my truck out. I don't want the nose sticking higher than the rear. I think that looks retarded. Some tech's at the ford dealership where I work told me what to do. But I was wondering if you guys have any helpful tips you can suggest. Just to help from getting my self into some sort of a bind. Also, maybe others can use this forum.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2006
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Much info can be found on this thread

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ar+conflicting
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2006
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i just sprayed those bolts up real good with WD-40, jacked up the front of the truck and put 4 turns on each side, im happy with where mine is, I would say go a couple turns at a time and make sure you go equal amounts on each side, just do it little by little till it where you want it to be
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Old 11-02-2006
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Yeah you can either jack the truck up or leave it on the ground but spray them with wd 40 like he said and you should be good.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2006
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Seriously man, it's two bolts, one for the right and one for the left. There are no tips, it's more simple than changing a flat. Just measure when you are done so you can make sure you are level.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slodsm
Seriously man, it's two bolts, one for the right and one for the left. There are no tips, it's more simple than changing a flat. Just measure when you are done so you can make sure you are level.
actuley there is more to it then just turning two bolts, do a search.

the truck needs to be on the ground and if you do not loosen the upper control arm bushing bolts then adjust the bars then tighten the bolts you WILL put the upper ball joints in a bind and they will go bad in no time.
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Old 11-02-2006
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I dont know about loosening the bolts on the upper control arms I have never heard of anyone doing that I think most people dont and they are fine.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksTJR
I dont know about loosening the bolts on the upper control arms I have never heard of anyone doing that I think most people dont and they are fine.

exactly if that was the case 20k miles ago it would have went out...i have lowered my truck cranking them bolts and lifted my truck cranking just the t-bar bolts......no balljoint problems here..........
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2006
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step 1 measure from highest point of fender to ground, write it down.
step 2 lay under the truck, find the right socket, turn the screws til your arms get tired.
step 3 remeasure. answer 1 of the 2.
step 3a not even. repeat step 2.
step 3b even. drive around block.
step 4 remeasure.
step 5 if over 1-1.5 alignment.

optional take before and after pictures.

in all honestly some say to lift it up by the IFS some say dont. if you cant turn it with it not on the ground jack it up by the center. i was just fine, got eaten by mosquitos in that time period.
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2006
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you guys have no clue.

the upper control arm bushings when tightened are "static" and do not move with ease unlike a polly bushing that stays "nutral" in all possestions.
when you adjust the torsion bars you are moving the lower control arm away from the static possestion of the upper arm thus pulling the upper ball joint out of its socket.

you guys dont know you have a problem because you dont know how to check for loose ball joints. or understand how your suspension works.
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2006
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thats alot of assumption and accusation there, 04 EDGE.

the factory control arm bushings are rubber fused to steel inner and outer sleeves. when the thru bolts are tightened the inner sleeve is in a fixed position, not allowed to rotate with suspension articulation. the rubber flexes and allows suspension movement. changin the ride height w/o loosening the bolts at the control arm pickup points will preload the bushings. the rubber will always be in tension. while this may effect the ride and compliance of the front end, you will NOT pull a balljoint out of socket by preloading the control arm bushings.


oh, and the words you are lookin for are "neutral" and "position"
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2006
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I have had my torsion bars cranked for over a year. My GF's dad is a mechanic and bc of your post we just checked mine and no problems here we DO know what were talking about and looking for were not idiots.
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2006
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how did you check them?

yeah i know my spelling sucks
oh and BTW just some FYI i am state and ASE master certified and fix state and local police cars and secret service goverment "stuff" at work everyday also
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2006
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Just 1 question why would ford put the torsion bars on if they werent meant to be adjusted?
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2006
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there not ment to be adjusted, thats why theres loc-tite on the bolts from the factory

now older chevy trucks can be adjusted with no problems, buy this is ONLY needed for add ons like plows and such that are being used. but the chevy torsion bar suspension is very different then fords misstake. lol
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  #16  
Old 11-02-2006
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oh and you did not answer my question
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2006
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We just took off the front wheels ( I was doing more learning than helping haha) but he checked the top rubber bushings to see if they were mashed or cockeyed as in the angle of them? From what he could see there was no premature wear, and I would think it would be there after a year or so.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2006
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Iv done it to my truck and got about 2 inches out of it and for the money you don't have to spend it's great!
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2006
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I've put 20k on 6 turns and havent checked for wear, but havent noticed anything.
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2006
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Here we go AGAIN...... Mark once again, as Bob has checked the FORD SERVICE manual about Torsion bar adjustment when you first started preaching this

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The Ford factory service manual says to adjust the bars on the ground with the weight of the truck on them. The important thing is to get them even right to left.

There is much more bolt adjustment available on one side than the other, so don't just crank them both to the stops. 4~5 full turns on each side will probably buy you an inch without seriously affecting ride quality, tire wear or ball joint life.

As far as loosening the upper bushings, the Ford manual doesn't mention it and I can't see any benefit.
once again you are the only person EVER that has said this... and it still boggles my mind that over probly oh 2000 people easy on over 4 ranger forums, have done it the FORD recommended way and there is no problems besides Early spring fatigue because there is more of a torsion load which is common with a larger torsion adjustment... so Class 1 bars are installed after owner notices failer, which they will last longer then the other bars giving the owner more time before needed to buy another set...

And for the people that want to know what the class 1 bar part #'s are here they are per Bob already finding them out for everyone

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
#1 bars part numbers:

F67Z#5B326#FA Pass side bar 1stfordparts price $37.72
F67Z#5B326#FB Drivers side bar 1stfordparts price $37.38
And hopefully this wont result in a huge fight with name calling and badgering because really its not needed...

Really Mark not trying to be a huge *** but I, 100% side with Ford on this one because they built the truck and designed it.
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  #21  
Old 11-03-2006
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Mark is the reason I started the "conflicting steps found" thread....I cranked mine by what Bob said, by the Ford recommendations...no problem.
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2006
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well some of you haven't changed so here goes

see the little picture at the top left of my post, that shinny new upper control arm was replaced at 19K due to the ball joint comming out of the socket 13 K after cranking my torsion bars, i will leave it at that.
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
well some of you haven't changed so here goes

see the little picture at the top left of my post, that shinny new upper control arm was replaced at 19K due to the ball joint comming out of the socket 13 K after cranking my torsion bars, i will leave it at that.
no Mark its not that we havent changed its just i will stick to the Ford service manual on adjusting the Torsion bars. honistly if you can show me a printed manual on adjusting Ford ranger Torsion bars that states your way i will say i am 100% wrong and admit failer.

idk if your truck had problems with the ball joints who knows. as an oposite example to yours Bill's truck has had the Torsion bars maxed since almost day 1 and used the ford service manual way of adjusting them and had i beleave over 50k on his truck before it needed ball joints and only one was bad and for part of its life its been slinging around 33" then 35" tires which i would expect the ball joints to fail faster with lugging around those tires.

like i sayed before i am not arguing mad or in different just stating what Ford Service manual says how to properly adjust the torsion bars...
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2006
04 EDGE
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the ford service manual doesn't say anything about cranking them, just replacing the bars, using new bolts and setting them back to factory ride height specs.

heres the thing i actuley know how to check the parts for wear on these trucks and i have found bad parts that other good techs could not find.

you guys do whatever you want to your trucks i really could care less.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2006
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
The Ford factory service manual says to adjust the bars on the ground with the weight of the truck on them. The important thing is to get them even right to left.

There is much more bolt adjustment available on one side than the other, so don't just crank them both to the stops. 4~5 full turns on each side will probably buy you an inch without seriously affecting ride quality, tire wear or ball joint life.

As far as loosening the upper bushings, the Ford manual doesn't mention it and I can't see any benefit.

nothing against bob but this is not a direct quote from the "ford service manual"

there is nothing about altering factory ride height specs in the "ford service manual"
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