Torsion Bar Adjustment - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 11-15-2008
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stock (for now) I need to do this
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or just ditch that rear block :-D
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  #27  
Old 11-15-2008
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You'll have a better ride ditching the block.
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  #28  
Old 11-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03_ranger_fx4 View Post
so i just tried to do this to my truck and the bolt on the drivers side is about an 1/8 th of an inch further in than the one on the passanger side, but the measurments are the same on both sides exactly the same..should i try and even them out or what. o and i had it at about an inch and then after i drove it around for a bit it sank to just over 1/2 id that normal for it to "settle" that much?
Your bolts wont be even to make the truck the same height.

There is a ranger lean they call it if you notice the passenger side bolts is out further.

This lean is to compensate for full fuel tank and driver weight.

It will settle a bit after driving around, and working the suspension. Just adjust drive around and readjust till it is where you want it.

I did mine and it settled a lot so I maxed them out and it settled into the spot I wanted them.
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  #29  
Old 11-15-2008
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You'll have a better ride ditching the block.
then those B*** are coming out over Thanksgiving, lol
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  #30  
Old 11-17-2008
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Yeah one bolt is out further than the other, they come like that stock so don't worry about it. i have my tbars maxed out and it doesn't ride bad.....except past 65 for some reason prob unbalanced tires

Last edited by 99offroadrngr; 11-17-2008 at 09:57 AM.
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  #31  
Old 11-18-2008
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When I bought mine new the front was much lower than the back with too much rake. I cranked up the t-bars about 3-1/2 turns apiece and the look was great but ride stiffened up a bunch. I hardly off-road and wanted the smoother ride so I relocated the rear spring spacer blocks above the spring effectively dropping the back 2-1/2" inches then backed off the t-bars to what it was. Rode great, looked like crap. I lowered the front another 4 turns each to achieve more rake. Rides like a dream . . . also improved driveline U-joint angles dramatically. Not as sexy or sporty looking (much less statement) but rides so much better I'm trying it for a while to see if it grows on me. Looks more like a 2WD now with oversize tires. Front lower A-arms are almost touching the bumper stops. Who knows? If it doesn't grow on me I'll raise it back up and just live with the stiffness.
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  #32  
Old 11-21-2008
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Very good write up. I am going to do this to my truck this weekend.

As for that 2" factory block, I have some 3" blocks from lowering my old B2200, could I swap those in place of the stock blocks and get some longer U bolts and give myself an exta inch in the back?

Instead of a 2/3 drop,do a 2/3 lift lol.
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  #33  
Old 11-21-2008
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Yeah you could.
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  #34  
Old 11-21-2008
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but that's kinda more work than it's worth for an inch. Should just get some 4" blocks instead and do a 2" lift in the back and 1.75" in the front with the torsions. That would make me happy enough.
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  #35  
Old 11-21-2008
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I wouldn't if I were you. Get a Chevy drop shackle, I think the code on summitracing.com is BEL-6400 or something like that.
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  #36  
Old 11-21-2008
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Yeah I was thinking shackles. There isn't one specific for a Ranger?
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  #37  
Old 11-21-2008
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their is on ebay, and i got torsion keys with mine for a hundred ten bucks. i could get pics if you like
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  #38  
Old 11-21-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanks Rangers View Post
their is on ebay, and i got torsion keys with mine for a hundred ten bucks. i could get pics if you like
Torsion keys suck, theres a reason that no one but you runs them. It will destroy your tie rods, ball joints and other things.
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  #39  
Old 11-21-2008
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Originally Posted by crazymikey View Post
Yeah I was thinking shackles. There isn't one specific for a Ranger?
The one we actually use is a full size Chevy drop shackle, it actually raises our trucks.
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  #40  
Old 11-22-2008
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So Mike, if you do decide to lower it this weekend I just wanted to give you a heads up on a few things: I had to enlarge the holes in the spacer blocks slightly (used a 3/4" drill) as it didn't want to fit over the spring **** (you'll have to "flip" the blocks upside-down) and some minor grinding may be needed on the sides of the spacers where the threads on the U-bolts pass by 'cause the threads on the U-bolts have slightly larger O.D. than where the smooth shanked. Other than that it's a super quick thing to do and totally reversible I you don't like it. Good luck.
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  #41  
Old 11-22-2008
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nice write up
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  #42  
Old 11-22-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07Sport4x4 View Post
So Mike, if you do decide to lower it this weekend I just wanted to give you a heads up on a few things: I had to enlarge the holes in the spacer blocks slightly (used a 3/4" drill) as it didn't want to fit over the spring **** (you'll have to "flip" the blocks upside-down) and some minor grinding may be needed on the sides of the spacers where the threads on the U-bolts pass by 'cause the threads on the U-bolts have slightly larger O.D. than where the smooth shanked. Other than that it's a super quick thing to do and totally reversible I you don't like it. Good luck.

If this is aimed at me, I'm not planning on lowering my truck, I just want a very slight lift with a minimum of cost and work at the moment. I'm just going to be running 31x10.5x15 tires and I want the truck to lose the nosedive stance it has from the factory and sagging from high milage.
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  #43  
Old 11-22-2008
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I've just come back in from cranking my torsions up a tad. I didn't need to lube the bolts and they moved quite easily using a 1/2" socket and about a 2 foot long breaker bar.

I only raised the front end by about 1.25" and took it for a 10 minute drive to settle it and came back and everything sits nice and even. It's funny what a difference just over an inch makes sitting in the cab.
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  #44  
Old 11-22-2008
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Nice, did the same to my truck, i felt like a feild plow or something with my front end diving into the ground all the time, i put new torsion keys in though, tuff country, it let my get the height to match the back without having to crank my bolts as far..... kind cool
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  #45  
Old 11-22-2008
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I also forgot to mention I did 12 quarter turns on each side,so I guess that would have been about 4 full rotations. My top of tire to bottom of fender gap front and rear is now an even 5".
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  #46  
Old 11-22-2008
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Ok,so here's my beast cranked up a little bit...and washed for the first time in about a month.

Before:


After:

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  #47  
Old 11-22-2008
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Looks good! Much better than a "dragging front chin" look. That's the beauty of torsion bars . . . if you don't like it, you can easily adjust it.
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  #48  
Old 11-23-2008
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Yup. I had an '89 B2200 with a very low static drop. I installed 2" drop spindles and cranked the torsion bars down. Got it low enough that the top of a 205/40/17 tire just started to tuck without rubbing at full lock.

Also,if you notice in the before and after pics I posted,my truck didn't require very much adjustment, but it is noticable if you look at the pics together.
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  #49  
Old 11-27-2008
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Thanks so much for the guide - I'll be putting it to use soon.

Stupid question:

What do you mean by "breaker bar"?
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  #50  
Old 11-27-2008
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slide a tube or pipe over the handle of your ratchet to make it longer giving you more leverage to turn the bolt easier.
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