I know that there are alot of threads about this. I tried a search but didn't find any info on this subject.

The front of my truck is stock and the rear has a superlift 2" add-a-leaf kit installed.

The front of my truck sits kind of lower than a normal 4x4 ranger. It used to sit level, but the reason for that, was that both of my rear leafs were worn and one had a cracked leaf. So, I replaced both sides with a set of new OEM leaf packs. And also added a superlift 2" add-a-leaf kit while I was at it. Now the rear of the truck sits 4" higher in the rear than the front.

I wanted to crank the bars to make it somewhat even with the rear of the truck, BUT The key way's are already maxed out from the factory????

I was considering ordering new bars from ford and then trying to level it out, but I don't want to buy the new bars and then be stuck in the same situation.

AIM Industries sells a torsion bar keyway that allows you to raise or lower the truck an extra 2" over the stock adjustment. I'm not sure if this will help or screw me????

Here is the link to the torsion bar keyway: AIM INDUSTRIES

Any suggestions?????


Vic

 

there already maxed out..from the factory..never heard that

i guess if you got a better bar you could do it

 

I wonder if they just feel maxed. Mine were very hard to turn. You may measure from the center of the wheel up to the fender and see if some of us will do the same. This will tell us if you are maxed out.

I bet you have to strap in your seatbelt to keep from falling forward.

 

take that stuff called PB..spray that like 2 days b4 you do it and everyday to that point...


get a big cheater bar and go for it

 

that helps ima be crankin mine soon...

 

I tried to look up inthere with a light and you can see that there touching the top of the bracket. Also I can loosen them up without a problem, BUT when I try ti tighten them it goes right up to where it was and stops. It won't let me go any tighter.

It sounds really stupid, but trust me it won't go any tighter. I even tried a long breaker bar with a 4' metel pipe and couldn't turn it anymore.

I will try to get a measurment and pics. I'm not sure how the pics will come out, but it's worth a try.


Thanks;
Vic

 

It does look wierd...LOL I might have a pic of it leaning forward....LOL

EDIT, I do have a pic...LOL

It's hard to see, but you get the idea. There is nothing but the e-brake holding it on the tow truck. so it is sitting at ride hieght in this pic. The first pic is with 31" tires and the second pic is with 30" tires.



Now in this pic, You can see how it was before the rear springs were replaced:



You can see the diff in the pics.......

Vic

 

You can't crank them enough key-way or not to get 4" or more of lift.

I had my bars max out because I wore them out. Look on the sticker on your door pillar and find the field labeled "SPR" and tell me what the code is. It will be something like "BC", "1F" or "FG" or whatever. The first character is your torsion bar rate, the second is your rear spring rate code. If the first one is not a B or a 1 (one), then get new bars as the older, weak bars tend to sag under heavy use. I have B bars in mine now and it's helped GREATLY. The higher letters are weaker, and 1 is the strongest.

There is a type of lock-tite on them that keeps them from moving and it takes a lot of torque to move them, as has been suggested. Ford does NOT recommend soaking them with oil, as it removes the pre-applied dry threadlocker that keeps the bolts from backing out again. Frankly, I've totally stripped the stuff off mine and they still aren't moving easily in OR out -- but that's what Ford says.

Still, I'm certainly no "Hercules" and I can move them even when coated with a 1/2" ratched and 1/2" socket. They're hard to move -- but not THAT hard to move.

If you have like only 1/8 to 1/4 inch left between the adjustment bolt head and the mount frame, your are or are almost maxxed out. If you can see 3/8 to 1/2 inch or more, you've probably got adjustment left. Mine will tighten all the way in to almost a 1/16" before they "bottom out" -- but it will vary somewhat.

Regardless -- you're quite possibly going to have to wait until your new rear springs break in, which they will do SLOWLY with that add-a-leaf in there. After they do you'll probably lose an inch or so in the back.

 

They have been in there for about a year now.



Vic

 

Then you probably need new t-bars. Did you get that code I asked for?

 

I knew I was forgetting something.

I will get it in the morning and post it up.

Thanks
Vic

 

I believe they are B torsion bars in there. I think I read it right. I will take a pic of the sticker tomorrow.


Vic

 

Just throw 200lbs of something in the back, it will even it out.... :-D might burn your gas milage but at least you wont be in the steering wheel, lol

Rocky