Haha I know I'm sure you have i just figured I would point out that not all of our posts are gems.

 

Wirelessly posted

A geo tracker rear axle in a ranger?!? It just seems weak and not worth it that's how I see it. I just don't under stand why any1 would do that.

 

ha well if you thought I was serious, I am not that dumb, I was just being a smartass to this post

 

the axle part wasnt a joke

 

oops well again clearly I don't know much and thought that axle couldn't support 35 inch tires

 

sometimes newbs are serious

 

What 3.5" spindles are you running and is it just spindles and nothing else (control arms etc.)?

 

so, whats the deal, i read it will hurt and i read it wont hurt.....if i level the front end will it screw **** up?

 

So many people in this thread are banned...

 

Is there anyone that can answer my question

 

If you do research outside of this thread you will answer your own question.

My truck is fine. I got an alignment a year and half after cranking my torsion bars. My truck rides fine, and the ball joints are fine.

 

Just do it, if it breaks, swap in Geo Tracker parts. Duh.

 

^^^^
This.

Honestly, just get an alignment...

 

I did a little experiment on my stock 2011 XLT 4x4 SuperCab.

First measured the distance from fender the hub centre at 19.5" ride height.

Then measured the camber with a straight edge on the sidewalls of the tire and a digital level. Got -1.0°, that is negative camber, the top leaning in.

Put a jack under the centre of the crossmember and jacked the body up 2" to 21.5" ride height.
Camber was still -1.0° +/- 0.1°.

So I think camber changes little with ride height, at least near my ride height.

This is the same as if the truck was lifted with suspension mods. Cranking the torsion bar, different coil springs, whatever.

The change of camber, or lack of it, is due to the relative geometry of the upper and lower control arms. The outer ends, where the ball joints are, move on the arc of a circle. In the process they move both ball joints horizontally. If this horizontal movement is the same for upper and lower ball joint then the camber does not change.

But I would not guarantee that camber remains constant through all of the possible movement range of the control arms. That is for all possible static ride heights. Best to measure it as above.

This is not directly to do with the torsion bar. It's just that you are using the torsion bar to lift the body. It would happen just the same with coil springs if you used spacers or such to lift.

 

Is your name really woo bunny or are a big lebowski fan?

 

Wot good is a secret identity if everyone's blabbing about it?

Wot's your ride height?

 

My truck is starting to toe in after I cranked my tbars if I get it aligned that will fix it?

 

Yes - that is what an alignment is for...

I had to get the camber bolts too as I had pretty good negative camber (2.25 deg.) - that was a whopping $36.

my steering wheels is pretty straight although I need to change it anyway so I will wait.

 

Where did you get your camber bolts/kit from. I have only found ones that adjust to +2,-2. If its ok to post a question on this old thread. Or should I start a new thread.

 

I have a stock 2004 4x4 Edge Ext cab, looking for affordable and best way to lift and Modify it to add 33" tires to my truck. I heard to stay away from T-Keys, is this true?

 

have you even read the first post in this thread? if you did you will learn why they say to stay away from aftermarket lift keys because you will know how they affect the front suspension on your truck

 

Wow I can't believe I read this whole thread...

Here is my .02, and believe me it's not worth a whole lot. But I've been dealing with T-bars for about 12 years, but with Chevy pickups. T-bar cranking and expecting to get the same results as a regular lift... Um no! Only true way to lift a T-bar suspension, and do it right is to invest in a regular lift kit.

I don't plan on cranking the bars on my Ranger just because I don't feel like dealing with problems down the road... Besides most of the people who see my truck already think it's a 4x4 anyways. Then they ask me if I installed a lift kit... I explain to them the different suspension systems, and most just scratch their head...

 

yeah well then clearly those people are stupid if they're asking if a stock truck is lifted.
I forgot how many problems i've had on my 3 rangers with cranked torsion bars...oh wait none

 

Your explination of the geometry change that occurs when the tortion bars are "cranked up" to give the maximum lift possible short of lowered spindles or a full lift kit. This simple DIY project gave my 02 Edge enough height and room to put 31x10.5x15 tires with no problem as far as rubbing or interference of any of the front end components. You ae correct, as well, when you state that any adjustment or alteration beyond what is stock from the factory requires an alignment. I recommend a 4 wheel alignment as this gives the best wear pattern on the tires you use.

Now on to something else someone might have advice to offer or has had experience with.

I want to raise my Edge another three inches or so. I am considering using 3" lift spindles. I have no idea what he "setback" is on stock ford wheels. But I do know that the stock wheels will not carry the tires I want (33x14.50x15) And even if they would they would never clear he new spindles because the "setback" is too deep. My question is...how much "setback" should I order on the wheels I want to use (15" Smoothie deep dish chrome reverse wheels) or who can offer the information I seek. My truck is stock ford black with just a hint of metal flake and even less, but noticeable, pearl. I want to give my truck an incredibly aggressive stance. The project is called the "Tarantula Truck". There will be no "Badging" and the only things on the truck that are not black will be the wheels. The extra wide tires will extend about two to three inches past the fender on each side. And the whole shebant will be offset bt a 3" Bull Bar and High Intensity Driving lights. When finished (my goal is is on a 15April-01 May time frame) and if everything I plan works out it's gonna be a helluva looker. Engine mods like a 3" catback system, Headers, Air intake modifications, and possibly increased fuel jetting. Think It'll work?

Pictures of my "baby" will be sent this ppring.

 

When you mention 'setback' - It sounds like the official term you are after is really backspacing.

Might also want to create a new thread in the 'Wheel & Tire' section for additional information: Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

That said, if you want a wheel that will support 14.50" wide tires you will need (at least) a 10" wide wheel. Then to have it 'stick out' that far - you will want it to have a rather low backspacing number.

Here is a little cheat sheet I put together for comparison - Just pick your poison:

7" wide wheel w/ 4.50" Backspacing (+12 offset) - meaning 2.50" outboard. (Stock)
8" wide wheel w/ 3.25" Backspacing (-32 offset) - meaning 4.75" outboard. (aka - 2.25" further "out" than stock as well as being 1.25" inward less than stock)
8" wide wheel w/ 3.75" Backspacing (-19 offset) - meaning 4.25" outboard. (aka - 1.75" further "out" than stock as well as being .75" inward less than stock)
8" wide wheel w/ 4.00" Backspacing (-12 offset) - meaning 4.00" outboard. (aka - 1.50" further "out" than stock as well as being .50" inward less than stock)
8" wide wheel w/ 4.50" Backspacing (0 offset) - meaning 3.50" outboard. (aka - 1.00" further "out" than stock as well as being the same distance inward as stock)
10" wide wheel w/ 3.25" Backspacing (-57 offset) - meaning 6.75" outboard. (aka - 4.25" further "out" than stock as well as being 1.25" inward less than stock)
10" wide wheel w/ 3.50" Backspacing (-51 offset) - meaning 6.50" outboard. (aka - 4.00" further "out" than stock as well as being 1.00" inward less than stock)
10" wide wheel w/ 3.75" Backspacing (-44 offset) - meaning 6.25" outboard. (aka - 3.75" further "out" than stock as well as being .75" inward less than stock)
10" wide wheel w/ 4.00" Backspacing (-38 offset) - meaning 6.00" outboard. (aka - 3.50" further "out" than stock as well as being .50" inward less than stock)
10" wide wheel w/ 4.50" Backspacing (-25 offset) - meaning 5.50" outboard. (aka - 3.00" further "out" than stock as well as being the same distance inward as stock)

Just in case: The easiest way to measure backspace is to lay the wheel face down onto the ground so the backside of the wheel is facing up. Take a straight edge and lay it across the flange of the wheel. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the hub mounting to where it crosses the straight edge. This distance is the backspacing measurement of the wheel.