thats 2wd baby

open rears suck for sliding, i learned that one a few weeks ago

IFS snow plow ftw

 

Heck yeah I am!!! :-D

Been busy as all hell right now.. think oen of my rear drum brakes might be half seized.. not sure whats causing it, but when im driving in slush, I hear a 'hissing' sound from the rear.. then it starts grating terribly.. doesnt happen with normal snow at all, no matter how deep it is.. even when I was in 2+ feet of it plowing... *sigh* Need to get the front and rears done on my next paycheck I think :-D

 

The first rear aussie went bad, due to faulty install, due to poor manufacturing. If you read about rear aussie lockers over at Explorer forums, you'll see that the 8.8" lockers never fall into specs when you install them. Most people can't even fit the center pin in with the thrust washers still in place. That is what happened with me. I had to leave the thrust washers out and my locker was on the wide side of tolerances. Worked great for a while but eventually start skipping so bad it was nearly undriveable. Aussie sent me a new one, same problem. This time I just pounded the centerpin in there with a BFH. Hated it, felt so wrong. But it worked great. No more harsh unlocking on the highway, nothing bad at all. Actually worker much smoother, though slightly more aggressive.
I could go place in 2wd that I could barely go in 4x4 before. I could do awsome controlled power slides (great for turning around in the street when it's wet, lol). You could get an awsome launch from a standstill with great traction too. My tires did wear quicker but it wasn't that bad. I would halfway consider an aussie in the F150 if it didn't already have a limited slip, and the tires I want weren't going to cost more than double what they did on my sport trac.
My sport trac had an automatic though too. With a manual transmission, it will unlock/lock between shifts if you're turning. So if you are accelerating and shifting through a turn it's kind of strange but you get used to it. After driving Jeeps with Detroits and Lock-rites, the aussie seems to be the smoothest.

 

damn i woulda got stuck in that so dont knock the mans tires.

 

Thanks Brian for the reply.


I'm pretty much settled on the Aussie for the rear...SOOOON too. lol. I'm only a little bit worried about that big fat huge 4.88 ring gear and that notched crosspin...add the aussie....and i'm sure it'll be really fun to get everything together properly. lol.

 

Why did you notch the cross pin?
I ran 4.88s also and the shop that installed my gears told me that it was stronger to notch the ring gear just enough, and that's what the manufacturer recommended. Beats me though I've heard both ways.
You're running the 31 spline too, so I think it will be okay. Never any problems with mine though I was just running 33's. But I ran the thing really hard, too. Just remember when you install it, if the fit is super tight, it's pretty normal. Aussie would prefer you install it with tighter tolerances than loose. I know how the loose tolerance ends up :( ..
If you haven't run a locker before you are going to love the extra traction.

 

wait why wont the torsion work with 4.88s? Didnt Jared have it?

I would notched the ring gear as well, not the pin.

I have a lockrite i the rear and an aussie in the front of my current axles. Not that it is really relevant. LOL

 

Fun looking vids.

 

ya...i ordered up the notched crosspin.....my installer said he'll use it or mod a stock one...ended up using the notched one. i honestly dont know the difference really. I am using a 2005 Fx4 Level 2 rear axle now too...so 31spline baby!

Thanks for all your insight Brian...just wish i jumped on all this crap sooner when you were still in town so we can do this install at your place. lol. you teach me. lol.

Jared had 4.56's i do believe. I'm soooo pissed i messed up and didn't take pics of why...i was just sooooooo damn frustrated. basically...the center block that does the job of the center pin in an open carrier....that center block interferred with the fat *** 4.88 ring gear...would have taken grinding WAYYYY too far on the ring gear...grinding in the middle of the teeth on multiple teeth to get the darn block out of the differential. i dropped the axle off without shafts and brakes(the way he wanted it)...complete differential...all that'd need to be done was the gear change, then remove the center block, slide the shafts in, c-clips, you know the drill. BUT....got the axle in the truck...brakes on...ready to slide in the shafts...and stumbled upon the issue of not being able to remove the center block in order to get the shafts far enough in to slide the clips on. SO...i'm the possesor of a Fx4Level2 OPEN axle. lol.

 

nice got to love the snow

 

you may want to talk to Jared, I know for a fact he had 4.88s, but he may have had a ECTED locker

 

mmkay. will do.

lol...BUT...i KNOW it's not possible to run 4.88's and the factory torsen in a 31spline 8.8. cuz i tried...and it was the lift for two days awaiting manufacturer approval of grinding of that block. lol.

 

Do you still have the torsen limited slip?
I need to do some damn research and figure out if standard 8.8 differentials work in the front of this F150. Maybe you know, Zach?

 

aren't F150's already 8.8" reverse r&p fronts? I still ahve the torsen...still deciding what i'm going to do with it. Might possibly throw it in my expo axle for the slammed truck. but idk.

 

Take a guess as to what this means...

Aussie Locker ( XD-48831 )- Rear - SUV Ford Explorer 1991 - 2005 - $259.99( Product Subtotal )$259.99( Product Total )$279.74

 

I concur on the DC Mud Country in snow, I love them they dont even care it always seems...




Also i hear timing chains ROLF

 

the rattle comes out in the wintertime every year...

 

Sweet!
I used this article and the aussie instructions together...
http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/...ie/aussie1.htm
If I can think of anything else that helped I'll let you know. Sometimes the springs/pins are a *****, but mostly just when you take it out. Don't go too heavy with the assembly goo during install otherwise it might make the case tighter and harder to fit. Just use enough to stick stuff together.
Just remember, this is what happens if you install without the thrust washers because you think the case is too tight...


This is where I was stuck during the replacement locker. There was simply no way to get it in without a hammer. But it worked and it worked great!


If you have to install it on the tight side, don't be surprised if you can't unlock the diff by hand with the tires in the air. Mine wouldn't. As soon as I set it down and drove, the first clunk was a big one and then all was normal. I suspect after something shifted it was within spec but I didn't open again to check.

 

Man when you where spinning all four tires it looked like you had custom white beadlocks lol.

 

Thanks for all your insight Brian...i really really appreciate it. The center pin is my only real concern as of now imo. you might be getting a pm with a number request as the days get closer to install just in case i need to speak with you.

 

The install is actually really easy, you won't have any problems with it. The directions are pretty good.
Feel free to ask for my number if you need something but I'm not sure how much help I'd be! lol