Little bit o engine shake
#1
Little bit o engine shake
whenever i am completely stopped i can feel the engine shaking a bit, just enough for it to be annoying. also from a complete stop when i hit the gas the engine stutters a bit then is fine, almost a lag. The plugs, wires and pack are all new to newer. no C E light or anything. any ideas? its a 99 ranger xlt with just under 70,000 miles
#2
#6
Well i took it a mechanic and they started off with "we want to change plugs and wires." i told them that i already did that. they went on to the pack, already changed that to. After that they tried the "well we will need to keep it here and blah blah blah," i told them to forget it, im sick of paying for a maybe fix. went to orielys and the guy said that its probably the fuel filter, so i am going to switch that out and hopefully fix it.
#8
#10
I put in a new transmission mount over the weekend. Motor seems to be smoother at cruise.
I checked and cleaned all the grounds that I could find.
Still rocks at idle.
I checked the usual spots for vacuum leak with brake cleaner at idle.
Next step is changing the transmission modulator. Shifts tend to be hard and it could be a source of the vacuum leak.
I checked and cleaned all the grounds that I could find.
Still rocks at idle.
I checked the usual spots for vacuum leak with brake cleaner at idle.
Next step is changing the transmission modulator. Shifts tend to be hard and it could be a source of the vacuum leak.
#11
#12
I just bought a 2003 ranger, the truck does the same thing. For some reason though it appears as if it maybe have a low idle, for when I turn on the air conditioning, the idle is smooth. My buddy has a 2002 ranger as well and his does exactly the same as mine, just a food for thought.
Trouble is, there seems to be no way to adjust it.
Redline SI-1 injector cleaner (supposedly the best) is going in tonight.
#14
I'm getting there.
With the Redline cleaner, the truck is getting smoother at idle.
I also changed the plug wires.
I will soon have as as new engine that shudders at idle!
Changed the transmission modulator today.
You don't have to remove a seat to get at the transmission access plate.
Just remove each kick plate, the sill covers and roll back the carpet.
There was transmission fluid in the vacuum side at least that what it tasted like!
Truck was in the driveway on a slope and fluid leaked out. Took 3/4 qt to top it up.
Truck now changes gears very smoothly.
It may be idling as smoothly as a basic V-6 can. Not sure.
Next, I will change the alternator brushes. At 108k mi, it is probably time. The voltmeter reads a healthy 14V. However, I replaced the brushes in another high mileage car and it did improve idle as well as output voltage.
With the Redline cleaner, the truck is getting smoother at idle.
I also changed the plug wires.
I will soon have as as new engine that shudders at idle!
Changed the transmission modulator today.
You don't have to remove a seat to get at the transmission access plate.
Just remove each kick plate, the sill covers and roll back the carpet.
There was transmission fluid in the vacuum side at least that what it tasted like!
Truck was in the driveway on a slope and fluid leaked out. Took 3/4 qt to top it up.
Truck now changes gears very smoothly.
It may be idling as smoothly as a basic V-6 can. Not sure.
Next, I will change the alternator brushes. At 108k mi, it is probably time. The voltmeter reads a healthy 14V. However, I replaced the brushes in another high mileage car and it did improve idle as well as output voltage.
#15
I have a 2003 ranger and have had the idle problem for a long time. I have read many, many, many threads on this for 3.0 rangers and this is a very common problem. I have done fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires etc... as well as hunderes of other ranger owners have done this and the shaky idle problem is still there. I have removed the fuel injectors and sent them out to be cleaned on an ASNU machine and still have a shaky idle. I have read of a few others doing this and still a shaky idle.
I haven't messed with motor mounts at all and have heard that idea proposed in other threads. Something I am not going to mess with as the mounts visually look ok, in additon they look extremely difficult to replace. Rear trans mount looks easy to get to, I may explore that one at another time. First time I have heard of trans modulator, I will be looking into difficulty of replacing that one next week.
The shaky idle problem is just something that is inherent in these trucks with that engine. A trouble sign would be the shaky idle continuing at speed, engine load, or the shakes while driving. If you get the shakes while driving make sure you eleminate the tires as a cause first.
Other then motor mounts the only other thing I have never messed with is the IAC. When this topic comes up the first item that is mentioned is replace the IAC. I have read so many thread on this and the IAC replacement seems to be a cure only about 10 to 20 percent of the time. I may replace mine soon as I have an intermitent high idle problem that started after I cleaned the IAC.
As far as the hesitation in acceleration from a complete stop goes. I would first look at the MAF sensor, enusure that the wires on it are clean. If they are then look at fuel injectors, air filter, fuel filter next.
I haven't messed with motor mounts at all and have heard that idea proposed in other threads. Something I am not going to mess with as the mounts visually look ok, in additon they look extremely difficult to replace. Rear trans mount looks easy to get to, I may explore that one at another time. First time I have heard of trans modulator, I will be looking into difficulty of replacing that one next week.
The shaky idle problem is just something that is inherent in these trucks with that engine. A trouble sign would be the shaky idle continuing at speed, engine load, or the shakes while driving. If you get the shakes while driving make sure you eleminate the tires as a cause first.
Other then motor mounts the only other thing I have never messed with is the IAC. When this topic comes up the first item that is mentioned is replace the IAC. I have read so many thread on this and the IAC replacement seems to be a cure only about 10 to 20 percent of the time. I may replace mine soon as I have an intermitent high idle problem that started after I cleaned the IAC.
As far as the hesitation in acceleration from a complete stop goes. I would first look at the MAF sensor, enusure that the wires on it are clean. If they are then look at fuel injectors, air filter, fuel filter next.
#16
Hmmmm...been there done that too !! LOL I haven't replaced the fuel filter though.. I know that won't work but I'll try anything at this point. I've spent enough money so I'm going to get really smart about what I do next. There isn't allot left though...I've about done it all.
My engine has about oh...58 pounds of fuel pressure. Flex Fuel.
By the way, my buddy, Ex Service manager and excellent Ford mechanic and transmission builder (who no longer works in that capacity) says 3.0s have a rough idle problem. Mine however...is way beyond acceptable. LOL
I'm gonna fix it. I keep getting a misfire on #5 about once every few weeks. I may repalce the plugs for the hell of it, they are pretty darn new and motorcraft.
Cheers,
Gene
My engine has about oh...58 pounds of fuel pressure. Flex Fuel.
By the way, my buddy, Ex Service manager and excellent Ford mechanic and transmission builder (who no longer works in that capacity) says 3.0s have a rough idle problem. Mine however...is way beyond acceptable. LOL
I'm gonna fix it. I keep getting a misfire on #5 about once every few weeks. I may repalce the plugs for the hell of it, they are pretty darn new and motorcraft.
Cheers,
Gene
#17
I replaced the FPR recently.
Still a "misfire" throughout the rev range.
I went to replace the serpentine belt last night.
I found that the old belt had stretched and that the tensioner pulley had seized.
This may explain recent voltage fluctuations from the alternator as the old belt slips.
Perhaps the "misfire" is due to belt slippage?
Hope springs eternal and the story goes on.
I will be using a Dayco (KY made) tensioner rather than the cheaper Dorman (Asian made) one. Dayco have alleged in a lawsuit that the Dorman is a copy.
Still a "misfire" throughout the rev range.
I went to replace the serpentine belt last night.
I found that the old belt had stretched and that the tensioner pulley had seized.
This may explain recent voltage fluctuations from the alternator as the old belt slips.
Perhaps the "misfire" is due to belt slippage?
Hope springs eternal and the story goes on.
I will be using a Dayco (KY made) tensioner rather than the cheaper Dorman (Asian made) one. Dayco have alleged in a lawsuit that the Dorman is a copy.
#18
I replaced the FPR recently.
Still a "misfire" throughout the rev range.
I went to replace the serpentine belt last night.
I found that the old belt had stretched and that the tensioner pulley had seized.
This may explain recent voltage fluctuations from the alternator as the old belt slips.
Perhaps the "misfire" is due to belt slippage?
Hope springs eternal and the story goes on.
I will be using a Dayco (KY made) tensioner rather than the cheaper Dorman (Asian made) one. Dayco have alleged in a lawsuit that the Dorman is a copy.
Still a "misfire" throughout the rev range.
I went to replace the serpentine belt last night.
I found that the old belt had stretched and that the tensioner pulley had seized.
This may explain recent voltage fluctuations from the alternator as the old belt slips.
Perhaps the "misfire" is due to belt slippage?
Hope springs eternal and the story goes on.
I will be using a Dayco (KY made) tensioner rather than the cheaper Dorman (Asian made) one. Dayco have alleged in a lawsuit that the Dorman is a copy.
Good luck !!
#19
whenever i am completely stopped i can feel the engine shaking a bit, just enough for it to be annoying. also from a complete stop when i hit the gas the engine stutters a bit then is fine, almost a lag. The plugs, wires and pack are all new to newer. no C E light or anything. any ideas? its a 99 ranger xlt with just under 70,000 miles
I know this is a little late for a response lol but that shake is most likely your charging system. I’m a mechanic and I’ve had quite a few rangers as well. Unplug your alternator and the shake will stop. When I find time one of these days I’ll trace it down and post what I found. I never really cared much I’ve found that Only the 2.9l’s do it.
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