code PO125
#1
#2
#3
I also have the same engine with the same OBD code showing, I changed the ECT sensor, to no avail, the code came back after 140 miles. But the temp. gauge still shows running on the cool side, the needle just barely goes above the C even after thirty miles, but have pretty good heat. So I'm at a stand still until I try changing the thermostat.
#4
RF Veteran
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Yes, it means one of two things, either engine is not getting up to 200degF, or ECT sensor is not working.
ECT sensor rarely fails, not never but rarely.
If the dash board temp gauge(it uses a different sender) is not up to 1/3 to just below 1/2 mark then thermostat has probably failed open, which is how they are suppose to fail if they do.
It should take no longer than 10 minutes for temp gauge to get to above 1/3.
Another test is to start cold engine and open the hood.
Feel upper rad hose, it will be cold
Wait a few minutes and feel it again, it should still be cold, if it is warming up with the engine then thermostat is stuck open.
ECT sensor rarely fails, not never but rarely.
If the dash board temp gauge(it uses a different sender) is not up to 1/3 to just below 1/2 mark then thermostat has probably failed open, which is how they are suppose to fail if they do.
It should take no longer than 10 minutes for temp gauge to get to above 1/3.
Another test is to start cold engine and open the hood.
Feel upper rad hose, it will be cold
Wait a few minutes and feel it again, it should still be cold, if it is warming up with the engine then thermostat is stuck open.
#5
OK, so I've already replaced the ECT sensor, so I tried the cold start test, within 5 to 8 min. the heater hose was very warm to the touch, but the top rad. hose was stone cold, left ideling for appx. 8 more min. and the heater hose was hot to the touch, and had good heat inside cab, but top rad hose was barely slightly warm to the touch, I'm thinking the thermostat maybe opening early. Not sure. (?)
#7
RF Veteran
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It reads like t-stat is working as it should
Heater hose should warm up with the engine.
Upper rad hose should not.
Upper rad hose should only start warming up IF coolant behind t-stat gets above 190degF, on cold days that may not happen, and even then t-stat may only open slightly, cold coolant coming in from lower rad will cause t-stat to close again.
So t-stat will open and close to maintain the minimum 190degF for proper engine operation temp.
Upper rad hose just reflects this opening and closing.
There are 2 ECT sensors, well one sensor and one sender.
The sender is for the dash board temp gauge, it has 1 wire, and that's the one you tested.
You said you changed the ECT sensor, this is the 2 wire device that looks similar to the sender.
The ECT sensor is only used by the computer, and this is what computer uses to "see" coolant temp.
And this is what would set your code if it's wiring or the sensor itself had a problem.
The computer sends this sensor 5 volts DC, the sensor is a variable resistor so sends a lower voltage back to computer, this lower voltage "tells" the computer the temp of the sensor/coolant.
Heater hose should warm up with the engine.
Upper rad hose should not.
Upper rad hose should only start warming up IF coolant behind t-stat gets above 190degF, on cold days that may not happen, and even then t-stat may only open slightly, cold coolant coming in from lower rad will cause t-stat to close again.
So t-stat will open and close to maintain the minimum 190degF for proper engine operation temp.
Upper rad hose just reflects this opening and closing.
There are 2 ECT sensors, well one sensor and one sender.
The sender is for the dash board temp gauge, it has 1 wire, and that's the one you tested.
You said you changed the ECT sensor, this is the 2 wire device that looks similar to the sender.
The ECT sensor is only used by the computer, and this is what computer uses to "see" coolant temp.
And this is what would set your code if it's wiring or the sensor itself had a problem.
The computer sends this sensor 5 volts DC, the sensor is a variable resistor so sends a lower voltage back to computer, this lower voltage "tells" the computer the temp of the sensor/coolant.
Last edited by RonD; 03-09-2014 at 02:01 PM.
#9
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
What year and what engine are you "having the same issue with"?
Any other codes besides
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
Did it start showing the code with Colder Weather?
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