Keeps Blowing Heater Blower Resistor...?
#1
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
What brand of resistor block?
Is it blowing the Blower fuse?
If not then I would say the Brand is the issue, not a vehicle issue
The resistor block is the GROUND for the blower motor, each resistor lowers the ground connection so reduces blower speed
This causes the resistors to heat up, which is why they are located in side the blower housing so the blower cools them off when its on
If cheap resistors are used then they won't last very long
EDIT
Just re-read your post
HIGH by-passes resistor block, its a direct ground, but there is a thermal limiter which could be the problem, if you loose all speeds, not just high
What YEAR is the Ranger?
Is it blowing the Blower fuse?
If not then I would say the Brand is the issue, not a vehicle issue
The resistor block is the GROUND for the blower motor, each resistor lowers the ground connection so reduces blower speed
This causes the resistors to heat up, which is why they are located in side the blower housing so the blower cools them off when its on
If cheap resistors are used then they won't last very long
EDIT
Just re-read your post
HIGH by-passes resistor block, its a direct ground, but there is a thermal limiter which could be the problem, if you loose all speeds, not just high
What YEAR is the Ranger?
Last edited by RonD; 01-10-2020 at 11:03 AM.
#3
What brand of resistor block?
Is it blowing the Blower fuse?
If not then I would say the Brand is the issue, not a vehicle issue
The resistor block is the GROUND for the blower motor, each resistor lowers the ground connection so reduces blower speed
This causes the resistors to heat up, which is why they are located in side the blower housing so the blower cools them off when its on
If cheap resistors are used then they won't last very long
EDIT
Just re-read your post
HIGH by-passes resistor block, its a direct ground, but there is a thermal limiter which could be the problem, if you loose all speeds, not just high
What YEAR is the Ranger?
Is it blowing the Blower fuse?
If not then I would say the Brand is the issue, not a vehicle issue
The resistor block is the GROUND for the blower motor, each resistor lowers the ground connection so reduces blower speed
This causes the resistors to heat up, which is why they are located in side the blower housing so the blower cools them off when its on
If cheap resistors are used then they won't last very long
EDIT
Just re-read your post
HIGH by-passes resistor block, its a direct ground, but there is a thermal limiter which could be the problem, if you loose all speeds, not just high
What YEAR is the Ranger?
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
1991 doesn't use the thermal limiter on HIGH setting just on the lower speeds, diagram below
The Speed control switch by passes the resistor block completely when on HIGH
It could be the blower motor itself has reached end-of-life, but I would expect it to blow the fuse on HIGH
The Motorcraft resistor block might be the way to go, I would first pull out the Duralast block and have a look at what "blew" and if you still have the previous one, look at it as well
The Speed control switch by passes the resistor block completely when on HIGH
It could be the blower motor itself has reached end-of-life, but I would expect it to blow the fuse on HIGH
The Motorcraft resistor block might be the way to go, I would first pull out the Duralast block and have a look at what "blew" and if you still have the previous one, look at it as well
#5
1991 doesn't use the thermal limiter on HIGH setting just on the lower speeds, diagram below
The Speed control switch by passes the resistor block completely when on HIGH
It could be the blower motor itself has reached end-of-life, but I would expect it to blow the fuse on HIGH
The Motorcraft resistor block might be the way to go, I would first pull out the Duralast block and have a look at what "blew" and if you still have the previous one, look at it as well
The Speed control switch by passes the resistor block completely when on HIGH
It could be the blower motor itself has reached end-of-life, but I would expect it to blow the fuse on HIGH
The Motorcraft resistor block might be the way to go, I would first pull out the Duralast block and have a look at what "blew" and if you still have the previous one, look at it as well
#6
#7
Hello..Thanks for your reply..I don't quite understand exactly what you mean..I installed it as it was before..That being said,there is a port at the bottom of the blower motor case that seems to be looking for a hose to be hooked to it..It was always missing but I never had issues before until the resistor went out the first time...Do you know what this port goes to..?..Thanks..
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#9
Hey RonD..Thanks..Is there a photo link somewhere to show how this hose is implemented..?..I see where it connects to the blower case, but can't see where it ends up.......
#10
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#12
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#13
Ok..Thanks RonD..Have another question ( different one ), but starting another thread as your answers may help someone else..
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