You might find that, in addition to the exact revs/mile value, there may also be a set of limits to the revs/mile that are set slightly above and below the stock value. Same for the rear axle ratio. The Xcal might automate the process by setting those values to their max and min point during the initial flash, allowing full adjustability to the user. Sorry, I don't remember the actual parameter names.

 

Yep your right Bob.
The stock limits are well above and below the 695 tire rotations I'm trying to achieve. For now I'm just doing it via the x-cal.. but not knowing why just bugs me. I'm a geek I guess. (I will look again though.. ;-) )

Rich

 

Alright, I am not much of a speed demon, I am just looking to gain as much low end as possible, Idle up to like 2000 rpm.

I have tried to read and follow what you have done, but it is still sinking in. What advice can you give me about this and what parameters to look for?








Oh yea, good mechanics explore all avenues to find the root cause of problem not just point fingers and focus on a single check valve.

 

The 4.0L is a short stroke motor. It's bottom end power is going to be limited by simple physics.

IMO increase octane & timing until the KS is not adding or subtracting. Leave fuel stock and maybe turn off the EGR to keep the intake a bit cooler.

Otherwise there is not much you can do except to reduce gearing and / or get the rpms up.

Rich

 

Actually, from what I understand, the egr helps bring down the temps. I read a post on a mustang forum where Doug (bamachips) was not happy at all about this guy removing his egr before going to him for some dyno time. Something about not being able to put as much spark in the mid range.

 

EGR raises intake temperature because of the introduction of hot exhaust gas. On the other hand, the added exhaust gas lowers peak combustion temperature to help reduce NOx formation. The lower peak temps also allow more spark to be added before the onset of detonation.

EGR is usually allowed only at part throttle and there can be a modest improvement in part throttle fuel economy due to the greater spark advance that EGR allows. A disadvantage is that you start with a prewarmed intake manifold when you move from part throttle to WOT.

 

Thanks for the clarification...

 

Just out of curiosity, does anybody know if the neutral rev limiter/drive rev limiter works on a stick? I ask because I'm thinking that if I set my neutral limit at say 4500rpm, it might work well as a launch control, kinda like a two step. 4500 when the clutch is in, and 6300 with it out. I'd try it, but right now my clutch switch is disabled so I can start it without the clutch in.
I know there's no signal to the computer telling it what gear I'm in, or if I'm in neutral, so I figure the only input that would affect this would be the clutch switch, and I have the option on my tuner to set these limits, so has anybody tried setting it different, and what were the results?
Thanks!

 

My tuner only lets the neutral limiter go to 4100.

 

Mine goes all the way up, but I'm a stick.

 

Yea that could be the difference why.

 

That value is changeable in the tune. So is the max rpm limit.
I set my ranger to 6300 for max and 5000 for neutral.

On the Lightning I set it for 5000 in neutral and 6500 max.



Rich

 

Is it possible to blow up one of your cylinders if you flash a tune and don't modify it? I had Fred BOSS3.0 make the tune. Its a 92 octane Performance tune. My parents seem convinced that that's what blew up my 5th cylinder, I don't even know if its blown up. The mechanic simply said something was on top of my piston head and had hit all over the place. My parents seem to think the tuner disables the computer from making its own decisons. Such as Retarding timing in the event of a knock. Thanks!

 

I very seriously doubt it. It sounds to me like something physically got loose and found its way into cyl #5.

If the tune was off you'd see signs of detonation and/or too hot of a burn on **all the cylinders**. And this damage / evidence would not result in physicaly beating up of just one cylinder.

Worst case situtation from a tune being off, you'd see pitting in the top of the piston and/or small metal flakes on it. (the aluminum getting too hot and spauling (or spraying) onto the piston face) You'd hear heavy knock above 4k rpms with a decrease in power.


Sounds to me like your folks want to place blame on something they know nothing about, instead of finding out what what the real problem is.

And btw, don't blame them for their attitude! We are all guilty of very quickly pointing a finger of blame at things we know nothing or very little about. Ignorance affects us all.

In life we'd all be far better off if we'd put down the hammer and pick up the magnifing glass.

Rich

 

Thanks, that made me smile a bit ha.

 

Matthew 7:5

Rich

 

so i have a 94 ranger and ive been looking around and it seems mines to old for most of these custom tunes on the internet (needing obd2). so whats a way i can use a custom tuner cause right now all i see is a jetchip as my tune option?

didnt know exactly where to ask this so any information would be helpful. thanks alot in advance

 

For OB1 check out the Tweecer R/T and the QuarterHorse. Both units are common amongst 302 mustang guys for tuning, and if I remember correct they can be used in other applications. There websites would give more info.

 

Hi Rich!

Would like your i advice and expertise concerning the famous airbox mod / silencer removal mod?

Truck is a (new 1000km on it ) 09 Ranger Sport 4.0l 2wd

Don't want to hurt it . So i was wondering if you can give me some direction. Will eventualy put some money on a tuner but for now want to know if i will damage my truck with that mod or not .

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...r-removal.html

thank you!!

 

That won't hurt anything. You might see a little tiny gain but it won't hurt anything.

 

Thanks for the reply Trent, i will remove it in an hour or so !

 

There is alot of good information here and also alot of expermentation...maybe too much.

My recommendation is based on tuning results with my car, NEVER wait till you here detonation, why? Because sometimes when you here spark knock it's too late. Dyno test to determine proper timing and check it carefully along with a professional grade A/F guage. Too much timing does not make power and weather conditions alter your AF reading. A cold day will change the barametric pressure causing you to run rich. Tuning on a hot day then beating your vehicle on a cold day will cause you to run lean under WOT. You'll see the result of that in the photo.

Here is the result of "listening for spark knock" with road testing and tuning on a hot day, then racing it on a cold day. I ran very lean and well....I really don't recommend it.

 

Wait, you say cold will make it run rich, then you say it made you run lean?


And to Rich, one more stoopid question, with the X-cal3, I have the option to either load a custom tune, or strategy tune. Can you give me a little more clarification on the strategy tune side of things?

Thanks!

 

There are no stupid questions when it comes to tuning. I have an SCT X-cal 2 with 3 different tunes, but not for my Ranger as of yet....it's for my Mustang. I'll get one for the Ranger soon.

If my remarks were unclear I'll break it down:

Tuning on the street can give you good results but mostly for the type of weather your currently driving in...unless you tune it in "mindshaft air" weather, so when it gets warmer outside you'll run more rich. Ford and GOOD Tuners will give you allot of variables with their tunes for different weather conditions which is why they are safe all year round and in every part of the Country. If you tune in "mindshaft air" and run a conservative tune your much better off than tuning on a hot summer day, unless you allow for the variables in weather. If you have an aggressive tune in the summer and winter comes or your driving in cold dense air and you floor it, you"ll run too lean and the result is the photo that I posted above.

Closed loop is when your cruising and your trucks computer will adjust trying to constantly achieve a 14.5 AF ratio.

As for picking a Tuner, shop around and tell them the type of weather conditions your truck will experience. I can't tell you how many Mustang guys will tune their car in New Jersey and blow the engine in Colorado....there is a 6000ft difference in elevation and the air is much thinner...boom!! Ford tunes their vehicles so you can by your vehicle in a city at sea level and beat on it safely, and you can beat on it safely in a city with high elevation. All this with the same tune. This is why you see tracks offering altitude correct times.

I have a family member that is a Ford Employee and he told me exactly why I melted those pistons. My car was tuned on a hot summer 95 degree day with a AF around 12 to 1 then beat-on in October in 38 degree weather. The difference on a cold day with dense air changed my AF to around 13.2 to 1 on a boosted engine...boom. I didnt hear any detonation at all when this happened.

 

As far as the air box mod.. it'll help at upper rpms. With the K&N conical I found power gains above 4000rpms. If you went with a high flow panel and opened up the snorkle I think you'd gain a little.

Reason I say that is that I saw a little drop in power by enclosing the conical with a *huge* air box. That tells me that even the K&N filter that comes with the FIPK could be a little bigger.

Do understand though.. that were talking about small power differences only in the 5000+ rpm areas. In reality.. rangers don't see those kinds of rpms very often. And at that.. 1-2hp.. who cares.



As far as tunes. Custom tunes are simply taking the stock tune from your PCM This usually is a 4 digit code that SCT has. It can also be pulled directly from your truck/cars computer. The tuner company then tweaks the stock setting and writes you a "custom tune". Mostly they increase timing, adjust fuel a little, & maybe firm up shifts a bit.

"statagy tunes".. I'm not really sure what that means. I **suspect** that's what they are calling the stock tune.

Rich