i have a 2006 with the 4.0l im wanting to the clutch fan and replace it with an electric fan. i got an electric fan from a 2002 ranger with the twin cam 2.3l would that fan work on my 4.0l?

 

Should be OK, haven't read about that swap so can't say how it will fit.

As long as if moves enough air when stopped and idling it will work fine in that respect.

You still need an e-fan temperature kit: coolant temp sensor, controller and High AMP relay.
If you have A/C then you may want to add a "Compressor ON" relay, so e-fan comes on when compressor does regardless of coolant temp

 

i got the fan and shroud from a 2002 ranger at the salvage yard i work at. i never knew ford put electric fans on rangers. any suggestions as to where i can get an efan kit with the relay or my ac?

 

would it be better to wire the fan relay to a/c so the fan comes on when the a/c is on or to an override switch so i can manually turn the fan on if needed?

 

Ebay has quite a few sellers

Just google: Electric Fan Thermostat Kits

Auto parts stores as well

Look on the fan motor or see if you can find its Rated AMPS online, that is needed so you can use a high enough rated Relay and Fuse for the fan motor.

If fan motor is 30amps then you need a 40amp relay and fuse, if 40amps then 50amp relay and fuse.

Many have used the Taurus/Sable e-fan on the V6 Rangers, many How-tos using those, so look at that wiring, google: Taurus e-fan in Ranger

You will probably have to build the A/C relay yourself.
A/C Compressor will either get 12volts when You turn it on, or it will get 12volts with key on and then be Grounded to turn it on.
Ford used both methods.

You need to find out with one is used.
Turn off Defrost and A/C in the cab
Turn on the key and see if there is 12volts on either wire at Compressor.

Now start engine and test again

If you have 12 to 15volts with either test then you have a GROUND controlled system.

If no 12volts then with engine still running, turn A/C ON and test for the 12volts, should be there now, if so then you have a 12volt controlled system.

Find out what you have and then what temp kit you are going to use and then you will know how to wire the system to turn on e-fan when A/C is on.


NO(capital N O), on the manual switch, if you do High Water crossing then maybe on a momentary cut off switch but no on the manual switch, because you WILL forget and you WILL OVERHEAT the engine and BLOW a head gasket, and expensive OOPS

 

thanks for the input... i found a derale [#16720] 180 degree singal stage electric fan controller. it gives you the option to run a wire to the ac or to manuall override swicth. the kit turns the fan on at 180 and off at 165

 

Sounds OK.
Where does the temp sensor go?
Upper rad fins or on the upper rad hose?

Looked it up, you will need a rad hose adapter with it
And it says 25AMP max then 40/60 amp in description????

Ford uses a 192-195degF thermostat so fan may come on as soon as thermostat opens and never go off until you turn off the engine, 190deg + coolant flowing to top of rad after warm up.
So you may want to mount the sensor on lower rad hose.
Radiators cool the coolant by 10-15deg with little or no air flow, 20-25deg with good air flow, so 195 coming in at the top would be 180deg at the bottom, so lower hose may be best with 180 sensor

Point of an e-fan is that is doesn't run when you are driving down the road and have good air flow, it should only come on when you are driving slowly or stopped.
AC is another thing all together, condenser in front of radiator gets VERY hot so you need max air flow all the time, so e-fan ON with AC ON

 

i can get the sensor in 180 190 and 195. what temp would be the best to use?

 

If you got the e-fan at the yard you work at, then I would go back to that vehicle and get the controller and sensors from it. Ford did not equip Rangers with e-fans, so this one is either aftermarket or it was a retro-fit homemade mod by the owner.

Take RonD's advice and DO NOT implement the manual switch. He is right... you WILL forget to turn it on at some point and toast your engine. Also, when wiring this all together, I highly recommend NEW wire and relays being sure to use the proper gauge wire. If you use too small wiring gauge, you will roast your truck in a grand fashion... these e-fans pull a LOT of amps, especially when they first turn on. My opinion of the sensor would be ON @192 degrees and OFF @180 degrees; you don't want your engine running too cool as that isn't a good thing either.

E-fan is a great mod that will increase both horsepower AND fuel mileage at the same time, not to mention quieter operation (no roaring fan clutch when it is cool). Best of luck with implementing this mod on your truck! :)

 

The Rangers with the 4cyl Duratec engines(2.3l DOHC) did use factory e-fans

And its controller would be in the Computer, relays would be in the engine fuse box.
The Duratec used a CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor for control of e-fan, also a coolant temp sensor and AC on/off sensor, and all 3 reported to computer which turned on and off the fan relay

Lower rad hose with the 180degF sensor would be better in any case, upper rad hose sensor needs to be mounted on the side of hose so it is always immersed in coolant, it doesn't read air temp only liquid temp.
So if you were to have a coolant leak the upper rad hose will have less coolant, air stays at the top of the engine, so sensor could get uncovered and not turn on the e-fan.
Lower hose would not have that problem, never air in there unless YOU drain the coolant, lol.
If lower hose coolant temp is under 180degF then you don't need the e-fan on, rad is cooling the coolant enough without it, if above 180 then e-fan comes on

 

Did NOT know this... why did I not know this? I want to do the e-fan mod to mine this spring and have been looking at fan alternatives. E-fan from a 4 cylinder Ranger would be a perfect fit! Thanks for that info, Ron!

 

I don't know if it will fit

Never seen a How-to on the Duratec fan in a V6 Ranger, only Taurus fans

 

after i do the fan install i will post pics and info. so RonD put the sensor in the lower hose with the 180 degree sensor? and what temp range would be best to run for a thermostat?

 

the duratec fan is mounted in the same fan shroud as the 4.0

 

Stock thermostat, 192 or 195degF, gives best MPG, cleanest oil, and longest engine life.

Thermostats opening is +/- 2deg

Thermostats are fully open at +15degF above rating

Best operating temp for gasoline engine is with coolant at 190-210degF, this was from a long term study by SAE, society for automotive engineers, the Oil Guys

Radiators have static cooling of 10-15degs, up to 25degs with air flow at 60MPH, but this is also based on outside air temp, obviously, lol, at 40degF air temp there is more cooling than at 90degF air temp.

The 180degF sensor on lower hose should activate fan when upper rad hose coolant is getting above 200degF, which is what you want
The 165degF shut off is a bit low, but not by much

 

I did the efan swap on my 3.0, and I'm running mine warm. On at 210 degrees, off at 195. 0 problems thus far. My sensor is in the upper radiator hose with a custom made fitting that consists of a copper pipe that fits inside the radiator hose and a brass bushing that accepts the threads of my 3/8ths NPT sensor. A hole was drilled, brass bushing threaded in and soldered in place. The sensor was threaded in with some thread tape for good measure.

I wired mine so that when the temp switch activates at 210, the fan kicks on but ONLY when the key is on. The key provides 12 volts to a relay, and the sensor grounds the relay, using pins 85 and 86. The fan's low side runs from battery positive, through the relay (30 and 87), through the fan and then to ground. I chose to ground mine to the negative battery post because the wires were long enough, but ideally you can ground it anywhere that's clear of the belts and other moving parts.

I've wired my AC in a bit an odd way that I don't really recommend, as it is more complicated. I only did it the way I did as a quick and dirty way so I didn't have to shell out precious dollars for the high-current parts required in my setup.

 

wolf what fan did you use?

 

I snatched a fan from ~95 Taurus. I used a sawzall to slice the ends down to fit inside my existing shroud for easy mounting. I posted about this in my build log with pics and a lot better detail if you want a better look at how I did things.

 

Since finding out about the stock Ranger e-fan, I did some research and found that a new Dorman replacement can be had for a shade over $100.00. Comes complete with fan, blades and shroud as an assembly that will bolt right in without modification. Then of course, you have to create your own wiring, relays and sensor... UNLESS, you could get the OEM stuff from a salvage yard and program the computer to control it. Most likely easier to do your own wiring though.

 

the top part of the shroud needs to be cut down to the depth of the 4.0l shroud. the 2.3 shroud is 8.2" deep and the 4.0 is 4.5" deep

 

mhoward in the research you did did you happen to see what years had the stock efan?

 

PartsGeek.com is showing 2001 - 2011 as one part number; Dorman #620-162 for $112.98. It does specify WITH air conditioning. I found it on one site (can't remember which one) for $103.00. I am sure this will fit other years, as my son's 1999 has the same shroud as my 2003.

 

Where, exactly do you have to cut it? The pictures I saw looked just like my shroud, with the exception of the actual fan part. Didn't see anything different.

 

the top of the is wider on the 2.3 then what the 4.0 is. i should have said that it looks like it would have to be trimmed. i did some mesaurements. i will let you know for sure when i do the install

 

Fair enough. Thanks!