Which header?
#5
#7
The install is fairly straightforward. The motor does not need to be removed. It is a good idea to remove the inner fenders and splash guards to make the install easier. Other than that it is just a matter of unbolting the old with plenty of penetrating lube and bolting in the new. Not too bad, maybe a five hour job or so. No tuning is required either, although you can mention that you have headers if you purchase a programmer down the road.
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Heres the macs...http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/c...0Mustang%20V6/
pacesetters...http://mustangcollective.com/showthr...ght=pacesetter
There`s a couple more like Kooks and Stainless works.
Last edited by robert ray69; 05-20-2009 at 04:37 AM.
#16
From a power and tuning perspective..
Long tube headers will almost always be better for power across the board.
Which ever version you choose try to get a primary pipe size thats about 1/8" larger diameter than the exhaust port. Bigger than that is a waste and can hurt low end TQ.
Tuning. There is a 02 sensor transfer delay setting in the tune. So if your headers 02 sensor port is more than about 2" away from the stock location. You *ought to* have the tune adjusted. You don't have to do this.. but you should because it effects the computers fuel commands.
btw guys.. I'm all about value when it comes to modding a stock or nearly stock vehicle. It's my opinion that on a (stock) short stroke motor like these 4.0L's a guy would be better served by just removing the stock manifolds, using a die grinder (or dremel tool) and cleaning up the bumps inside. Then get a set of high flow cats with stock or slightly larger mid pipe sizing. (after cat exhaust is a given).
This way you'll be legal, will get 85% the power increase, and will be a better bang for the buck.
Headers are "cool" and all. But.. when it comes to pressure within a *system* you can't just change one part and expect great changes. You really need to consider the whole system and what your goal is.
Just my two cents..
Regards, Rich
Long tube headers will almost always be better for power across the board.
Which ever version you choose try to get a primary pipe size thats about 1/8" larger diameter than the exhaust port. Bigger than that is a waste and can hurt low end TQ.
Tuning. There is a 02 sensor transfer delay setting in the tune. So if your headers 02 sensor port is more than about 2" away from the stock location. You *ought to* have the tune adjusted. You don't have to do this.. but you should because it effects the computers fuel commands.
btw guys.. I'm all about value when it comes to modding a stock or nearly stock vehicle. It's my opinion that on a (stock) short stroke motor like these 4.0L's a guy would be better served by just removing the stock manifolds, using a die grinder (or dremel tool) and cleaning up the bumps inside. Then get a set of high flow cats with stock or slightly larger mid pipe sizing. (after cat exhaust is a given).
This way you'll be legal, will get 85% the power increase, and will be a better bang for the buck.
Headers are "cool" and all. But.. when it comes to pressure within a *system* you can't just change one part and expect great changes. You really need to consider the whole system and what your goal is.
Just my two cents..
Regards, Rich
#18
Dont do it, they wont fit. Trust me, I`ve searched and searched all the different makes of long tubes for the 4.0 mustang. The mustangs engine sits lower than ours and their frame is wider. The longtubes practically sweep straight back. They`ll hit the firewall. Other designs not only sweep back, but pass between the frame and oil filter. I`ll see if I can find some links to the pics I found.
Heres the macs...MAC Long Tube Headers - S197 Mustang V6 pictures by AtlanticBlue99 - Photobucket
pacesetters...Pacesetter longtube are here! - The Mustang Collective Forums
There`s a couple more like Kooks and Stainless works.
Heres the macs...MAC Long Tube Headers - S197 Mustang V6 pictures by AtlanticBlue99 - Photobucket
pacesetters...Pacesetter longtube are here! - The Mustang Collective Forums
There`s a couple more like Kooks and Stainless works.
Is it possible a body lift will allow it to clear the firewall? If there's a 50/50 chance I will probably try and see what happens. I can always sell them if it doesn;t work.
With the bosy lift, and the fact that I removed my spare tire carrier, I think i can fit the exhaust up high. In the bed area I can darn near put it above the frame.
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It's my opinion that on a (stock) short stroke motor like these 4.0L's a guy would be better served by just removing the stock manifolds, using a die grinder (or dremel tool) and cleaning up the bumps inside.
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#25
207 is at the flywheel. You lose power going through the drivetrain. You have to remember it takes power to turn everything. Also an auto will soak up more power than a manual tranny.