Picking up this 97 exploder next week for $1300. Runs great, previous owner was a grandma.



Question I have is, my 3.0 and tranny is still strong. There shouldn't be any reason why I can't put the 3.0 back into this explorer when I'm done, right?

 

nice!

umm might be a little work as far as wiring and fuel setup. but I'm sure it's possible. would be rad to get it running and sell it for more spending money

 

Why put a 3.0 in that? I could be wrong but wouldn't it be underpowered? I'd keep the motor in it.
Btw, what are the plans for the exploder?

 

He is buying it to put the 5.0 in his truck.

 

Nice buy on the V8 explorer, No PATS and the good heads.
Yes, you will have to deal with fuel pressure issue, '97 used 45psi with fuel pressure regulator(FPR) and Return line to tank, '02(Ranger) uses 65psi with no FPR or return line.
Probably easiest to get a '99 or later 5.0l fuel rail with injectors.

As far as the 3.0l swap, load your Ranger with 1,000lbs in the bed or put on a 1,000lbs trailer and go for a drive.
4 door Explorer weights 800-1,000lbs more than Ranger, that drive will give you the reason why Explorers smallest engine was the 4.0l, and why they had to add the V8, lol.
3.0l runs about 145HP and 165 torque
4.0l OHV was only 160HP but 220 torque.
5.0l was 215HP and 280 torque

Torque of course is the big deal, torque is what gets you moving, HP just maintains the movement

So while yes, you could take the 3.0l parts and move them to the explorer, need to update steering column for 3.0l PATs, I don't think it would be a good driver, slow as heck and MPG would suck because your foot would have to go to the floor just to keep moving.
If you wanted to transport 4 people with luggage(another 1,000lbs), lol, it would be down right embarrassing

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I wanted to get a 98-99 but for $1300 I don't want to pass this up. I'm still going to have to put a new FPR in it since the psi is different and run a return fuel line.

My 3.0L only has 100k miles and the tranny was just replaced too has maybe 10k on it. Figured I could put it in the explorer and have another vehicle to drive and/or sell the explorer with the 3.0L in it.

I wanted to wait until I blew up my 3.0 but I think that's going to be awhile.

As far as PATS I was just going to have Fred @ Rogue give me a tune with PATS delete to take care of that.

 

You would be better off selling the running 3.0l and trans, I would advertise it first so future buyer can drive it, and just part out the Explorer, wrecking yard may haul it off for you and give you a few bucks, front end suspension and body parts are hard to find in wrecking yards, lol.

Check on the Type of PATS you have in the '02 Ranger(A, B, C, D, E, ect...), it may have the starter motor interrupt, this isn't part of the computer software, it is part of the PATS module above the glove box, and simply unplugging it won't restore starter function, it operates a secondary starter relay.
I am sure it is an easy by-pass just don't know what that is exactly.

 

Looks like I have Type E in my 2002. What's the best course of action?

 

Type E does have the starter interrupt.

For obvious reasons an anti-theft system maker would not publish methods to by-pass the system or parts of it, lol, kinda defeats the purpose.

There are Remote Start kits for PATS vehicles, they would need to make PATS "happy" and get vehicle to start, maybe a Kits installation wiring diagram for your year vehicle might show some circuit that will enable starter motor.
Just guessing.

Type E also doesn't have a separate PATS module, everything is in the PCM(computer), so two things could happen after new PCM(without PATS 1997 Explorer) is installed.
1. starter will work fine
2. starter won't work

If #2 then starter relay may need to be activated by a PCM circuit which is now not connected because of new PCM and wiring harness.
You would need to locate that relay and wire it to activate when starter is to be used

 

Hmmm, sounds like I should just track down a 1998... lol

 

1998 Explorer will have PATS, '97 doesn't

 

We're doing the exact same thing. Hopefully we can help eachother out. My thread is right below yours. Good info in there already!

 

Thanks Josh.

I had to put this on hold for awhile for money issues, but I plan on picking up the 97 this weekend. I was going to pay $1300 for it, but he says just come get it for a grand.
As of last week the ranger starting missing on cyl 3. Changed plugs and wires and coilpack but still missing. I'm pretty sure compression is an issue and if that's the case I'm not rebuilding this 3.slow again. lol

Technically I can't do this upgrade in California, but I'll just register it in Vegas or AZ to get around the smog laws.

While I'm waiting to pick up the explorer, before the ranger started misfiring I contacted Brandon @ BTF to order the upgraded spindles with dana snouts. Going to be upgrading to 35's and just don't want the stress on the camburg spindles with stock snouts. So I'll have the camburgs up for sale this weekend once I swap them out.

 

Awesome man! I want to ditch my Dixon kit and get a BTF race kit.

 

Yeah Brandon really has quality stuff, I've never had an issue.

The explorer I posted above ended up falling through. They told me it has 60k miles on it but in reality it was 310k. I asked them if they had paperwork of the repairs and they didn't. I don't know about that.



I found this guy on CL a couple days ago and he wants only $400. Going to check it out tonight. It has 200k miles on it, starts up and runs, but has oil/exhaust leak and the O/D servo needs to be swapped out on the tranny. I figure once I take it out I can just do it while it's out before I drop it in the ranger. Also while I'm at it I'll get a $250 engine rebuild kit and order the E303 cam and lifters and just overhaul this whole damn thing. For $400 that leaves me with a lot of extra spending money to make this ****.

I found this how-to on swapping out the servo's, don't even need to drop the pan. Seems pretty straight forward:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=262491

I'll post up some pics after I get it home tonight.

 

Sucks that the deal fell though man, but at least you found all of that out before you shelled out the money for it. Hopefully this next one works out for you. The 5.0 will definitely take your rig to the next level.

 

:)

 

**** just got real for the danger ranger. Picked up this 97 with 220k miles for $400 today and drove it 2 hours home without any issues. Has a couple issues but whole engine is getting overhauled, along with the tranny. Stay tuned!

 

Nice!

 

I may be bugging you and Josh throughout this build, hope you don't mind :)

 

Yes sir!!! I've got an Eagle rotating assembly in mine.

Really jealous of the BTF spindles. Trying to decide if I should break out the cash for their kit or go with Camburg. The Dana snouts are tempting me to go with BTF though, even though I'd probably be fine with the stock ones.

 

BTF all the way man. I have camburg now with stock snouts and I just had to upgrade. I don't want to run my 35s on weak ****.

 

Notta problem! With no PATS to worry about, the only real change will be adding a fuel return down to the fuel filter, pulling the original 3.0 FPR out of the tank and swapping a couple fuel line connectors. The rest is easy.

 

I noticed when driving the explorer home the O/D light was flashing and sometimes it would get confused when to shift. I also noticed the speedometer would go crazy. I'd be at 70mph then it would just go to 0mph and then back again. Over and over. I figured the VSS was bad, so I replaced it with a new one and now the speedometer doesn't read at all...

I figured if it was a VSS issue causing the O/D light that could be a simple fix since the tranny seems to shift and run good. At that point I wouldn't need to completely overhaul it. I still think the O/D servo needs to be replaced, if I shift it down to 1st and try to take off it feels like my ebrake is on and the truck doesn't want to go anywhere. If I shift to 2nd it will take off just fine.

Any thoughts on this?

 

Certainly describes like a VSS issue and if not with the VSS, then either the drive/driven gears or the wiring.

Think I'd start by putting the old VSS back in for a test. It's possible the new VSS is bad. While there, double check both the drive and driven gears.

The PCM is going to freak out without a speed signal so I definitely get that sorted out before looking deeper into the transmission/wiring/torque converter.