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6x9 Mod - Need some information for a proper Non-Sub Amp

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Old 08-10-2008
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6x9 Mod - Need some information for a proper Non-Sub Amp

Ordered up some 6x9 JBL 3-ways for the two front door speakers, punching out the holes and bumping up from a 6x8 in the door speaker.. will be going two more speakers in the back in a couple months as well....
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FEo4TDc...px?i=109GTO937


I am also currently using this headunit as well:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs



My question would be.. what amp would you recommend for a 4 speaker setup, not going to be running a sub, and is somewhat hideable in an easy fashion.. i.e; under a seat, or bolted to the sidewall easily covered and such?



I am not too worried about price, but I dont need anythign extreme.. again, I won't be running a sub, hence the reason or stepping up to 6x9 and getting 3-ways.
 
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Old 08-10-2008
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Why not get a 2 channel amp as you're not really going to be able to tell the difference from sound in the front or back of the truck, and besides how much does it really matter with music?
 
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Old 08-10-2008
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So.. I'll put it in lamens terms.. I have never run an amp before.. I can do whatever wiring is needed.. but if you could link up an ideal setup for a 4 speaker, non-subbed amp for those JBL's... that would be fantastic.. I couldnt tell anything from what the different RMS whatnots, bridged or unbridges, the ohms or anything... Lets just say I am an amp newbie if you will Educate me if you can.. that would be wonderful! And yes, I did search up.. but do you realize how many posts pop up when you try searching for information on amps on here?


Edit: Did some searching on the inter of net, and came across a post on some random forum regarding this:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...-speakers.html

The answer is: If you series the speakers, then you run each channel of the amp at 8ohms and you get half the effective power to each speaker but a cleaner sound since the THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) is decreased by ~half.

If you parallel them like you have indicated in the diagram above, then you will get twice the power out of the amp, but about twice the THD than if you just amped two speakers (one on each channel). This is a typical setup but I never recommend it since there will be a somewhat noticable difference in the sound because they are full range speakers. A two channel amp is capable of running more than just two speakers, but it is not designed to do so exlusively. So my question is WHY? Why are you going to have a two channel amp run four channels? That is what they design 4 channel amps for. You will lose your fader ability (which is a big factor in adjusting your staging) and you will gain unwanted noise.

I would do one of three things if it were me.


1. Return/sell the two channel amp and buy a four channel.

2. Forget about the rear speakers altogether and just amp the fronts. You want your staging to be coming from the front as if you were at a concert or at home infront of a TV. Rear speakers are just for rear fill and are almost unneccessary unless you have a 4.1 surround card or better.

3. Buy an additional 2 channel amp for the rears.


Is this figuring I should probably just stick to a 4 channel amp considering I will be going to 4 speakers, or run them "in a series" (however that is done) with a 2 channel amp? I know we have a small cab so anythign thats 'crisp and clear' woudl be good.. but with a 3 way it will also provide a good med/low range as well.
 

Last edited by WowMike2001; 08-10-2008 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 08-10-2008
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Sorry for the "double post" but I came on this.. trying to learn whats what.. seems this may be proper for a good 4 way setup...

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Infinity Reference 475a
4-channel car amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 75 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 117 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 90 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 180 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2


And this one as well..

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Alpine MRP-F600
V-Power Series 4-channel car amplifier
100 watts RMS x 4
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) N/A
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2


Given the small price difference.. I would be leaning towards the lower one, runs at 299 for it, only 50 bucks more
 

Last edited by WowMike2001; 08-10-2008 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 08-10-2008
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what I would do is go for a good set of component speakers (comes with a woofer, a tweeter, and a crossover(which directs the proper frequencies to the proper speakers)) for the front and run that off an amp with a slightly higher rms rating than what your component speakers have. this will give you a good clean and depending onwhat you get loud front soundstage. if that is good enough for you you can ditch the rear speakers if not I would just run them off the head unit for rear fill.

also most automotive speakers, excluding subs, are 4 ohms and should just be ran to their respective channel on the amp.
 
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Old 08-10-2008
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Not interested in gimmicking with components honestly, which is why Im sticking to some plain 3 ways.. my headunit has a passive set mode so I can turn the rear speakers to do more of the lows, and keep the fronts for more of the highs.. which is what my goal is.. I value cargo space in the back, and keeping things simple


And the JBL's are 2 ohm...
# 6"x9" 3-way speakers (pair)
# Plus One polypropylene woofer cone with rubber surround
# My-Ti™ (mylar/titanium) dome tweeter with level control and supertweeter
# 2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
# power range: 2-100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)
# frequency response: 50-21,000 Hz
# sensitivity: 94 dB
# top-mount depth: 3"
# warranty: 1 year
 
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Old 08-12-2008
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i would go with that infinity amp...the alpine has a little to much power at 2 ohms...here is a cheaper price http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19426
 
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Old 08-12-2008
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I cut and installed pioneer 6x9 3 ways in my front doors and have a kicker 200x2 amp pushin them and all in all, its not worth it. I have 4 spl tweeters rigged on the amp to and they tick really well, even doors do, but jus not the clearity i want. Im making some brackets for 6.5s for the doors now. jus my .02
 
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Old 08-12-2008
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What type of headunit are you running? It's all about the equalizer balancing and DSO/LPF's .. and not to bash anything.. but its not like Pioneers are really all too high end
 
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Old 08-12-2008
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i got a Panasonic CQ-C8303U...
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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running a 4 channel amps in these trucks are a piece of cake. and plus you can set the gain control to where the rear speakers get more power than the fronts. since you already have a good set of speakers i'd just go with a good 4 channel amp. those are made for speakers and not for subs. i used to do all that crap for a living and i hate doing it now but i try to help out where ever possible. email me if you have any questions.
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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Originally Posted by teracottapie
running a 4 channel amps in these trucks are a piece of cake. and plus you can set the gain control to where the rear speakers get more power than the fronts. since you already have a good set of speakers i'd just go with a good 4 channel amp. those are made for speakers and not for subs. i used to do all that crap for a living and i hate doing it now but i try to help out where ever possible. email me if you have any questions.
Good to hear bud! Just curious.. but with the two posted above, which one would you prefer?


http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Infinity Reference 475a
4-channel car amplifier
75 watts RMS x 4
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 75 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 117 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 90 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 180 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2


And this one as well..

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Alpine MRP-F600
V-Power Series 4-channel car amplifier
100 watts RMS x 4
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 100 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) N/A
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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<<<Start Thread Jack!>>>
is there a thread on getting 6x9's to fit the front spots? ive got an extra set of 4-ways that id like to put in.
<<<End Thread Jack!>>>
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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Originally Posted by My05edge
<<<Start Thread Jack!>>>
is there a thread on getting 6x9's to fit the front spots? ive got an extra set of 4-ways that id like to put in.
<<<End Thread Jack!>>>
VERY easy to do.. literally take the speaker, upend it agaisnt the door.. take a marker and trace out the rough drop-in area for it.. then use some self tapping screws for the mounts, dremel the cutout.... and bam.. done and done. I am going to be putting some bafflinf in behind it just in-case... and I plan on using the baffling to trace the cutout I need. Dremel's are your friends in this case :-D


The only concern I would have right now is making 6x9's fit in the rear.. but I have never looked at it yet, so I cant say if it will be hard or easy.



Edit: When the speakers do come in and I plop down to do this, I will take lots of photos and edit the first post of this thread to make a proper 'how to' type fo setup.
 

Last edited by WowMike2001; 08-13-2008 at 03:31 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-13-2008
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Just make sure when you mount the rear speakers that the magnet doesn't sit on metal because that will weaken the magnet over time.
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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Originally Posted by fddriver02
Just make sure when you mount the rear speakers that the magnet doesn't sit on metal because that will weaken the magnet over time.
Yep, thats my worry, the depth of the mount.. I may or may not go 6x9 in the rear, unless I feel liek taking some offset pads or something to stick in there to change its location a tad bit.. but other then that I will let everyone know soon as I pop off the rears :-)
 
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Old 08-13-2008
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You might be able to add washers or spacers to bring the speaker away from the metal.
 
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