Hey everyone!
im a new actual member to this forum, but have been lurking for a while.... I am in desperate need of some help!!!! Im in the process of swapping out the automatic transmission on my 99 Mazda B2500.... everything has been going as smooth as you would expect for a 20+ year old truck..... yup.... you guessed it.... road block and cliff hanger at nearly every stinking bolt turn! So now here I am..... reaching out to hopefully get some much needed assistance. My current issue this very moment is the steel transmission lines..... how in the devil do i remove these things.... when i try to wrench them off it seems the whole thing wants to turn which is leaving me with a knotted mess of a line. Ive watched several diy videos that all show something different, of course! Can someone please give me some advice, pointers maybe, or a trick to what im missing here to make my life any easier....

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, if the metal lines have been in place many many years the lines can stick to the compression nut
The nut should break loose from the metal line after 1/4 turn, but some times doesn't
You can try to wiggle the line or tap it with hammer after 1/4 turn, to see if it breaks loose

If not then you will need to cut the metal line far enough out so you can double clamp it for repair using rubber hose

If the line is already twisted then cut it and look for replacement line at wrecking yard

Or you can get replacement ends like these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...4_pri_larg.jpg

And you can use rubber line to the cut off factory line

Trans cooler lines don't have high pressure, maybe 10-20psi, this is a Return line, open at one end where it flows back into the pan, so its basically just Flow
But I do recommend using a double hose clamp on each connection



Heads up
If this is your first automatic trans install then there is one BIG THING you MUST DO
You must install the torque converter INSIDE the bell housing and SEAT IT before lifting and bolting trans to engine
If you don't do this you WILL ruin the transmission, i.e. FULL REBUILD RUIN

Short Video here, this applies to ALL AUTOMATICS not brand specific, they all work the same way


If torque converter slides forward when you are lifting and tilting trans into place, rotate it again to make sure its still seated
Bell housing should slide against engine, flush, you should NEVER have to use bolts to get it to seat against the block

I FUBAR'ed a fresh rebuilt trans on my first automatic install, many many years ago, it still HURTS to remember how ignorant I was, lol
Ignorance is a lack of knowledge, and there is no shame in that, just can cost you money on the "schooling" you get from the ignorance
Stupid is having the knowledge and still goofing up, and I still struggle with that, lol

 

Thanks for the tips!!!!! We should be getting this darn thing up by this weekend if work allows.... ill keep ya posted on the progress!