Problem with new brake hose set
#1
Problem with new brake hose set
Sorry, but I didn't see a brake section in the forums (If I'm blind, please let me know where it is to learn for next time).
I just replaced both front hoses on my 04 XLT (torsion setup) and both are leaking at the hard line. The OEM hoses left some thread visible on the hard line end, but the Raybestos ones I got do not. The thread is all taken in by the fitting. I noticed some brake fluid pooling up at the top of the fitting where the hard line goes through it, so i'm thinking the flare is not making contact with the base. Has anyone else had this problem?
I just ordered another set of hoses (different brand this time...Bendix), so hopefully these fit tight. I drove home from the shop yesterday, but went through a good bit of fluid just using the brakes. It flung around the splash guard, so I am parking the truck until it's fixed. Also have to get it re-aligned because I installed the camber bolts.
Well, if anyone has had this happen, let me know just so I know I'm not crazy. It's just odd how the OEM thread housing wasn't as deep as the Raybestos......I'm hoping that's the problem, because it's on both sides. If it was just one side, then I'd look for something that I did wrong. To be on both sides at the same spot though....that's too much of a coincidence.
I just replaced both front hoses on my 04 XLT (torsion setup) and both are leaking at the hard line. The OEM hoses left some thread visible on the hard line end, but the Raybestos ones I got do not. The thread is all taken in by the fitting. I noticed some brake fluid pooling up at the top of the fitting where the hard line goes through it, so i'm thinking the flare is not making contact with the base. Has anyone else had this problem?
I just ordered another set of hoses (different brand this time...Bendix), so hopefully these fit tight. I drove home from the shop yesterday, but went through a good bit of fluid just using the brakes. It flung around the splash guard, so I am parking the truck until it's fixed. Also have to get it re-aligned because I installed the camber bolts.
Well, if anyone has had this happen, let me know just so I know I'm not crazy. It's just odd how the OEM thread housing wasn't as deep as the Raybestos......I'm hoping that's the problem, because it's on both sides. If it was just one side, then I'd look for something that I did wrong. To be on both sides at the same spot though....that's too much of a coincidence.
#2
#3
See photos (towards bottom of album) here: http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy
Your hard line likely just needs a new flared end. Perhaps yours got mashed or nicked, or was not seated in the exact center of the fitting when you tightened it? There should be plenty of slack to cut off 1/2 inch of your hard line, re-flare the end, and reinstall it. That's what I did when that joint leaked. BTW, Autozone rents (ie, lends) out those flaring tools for free, if you leave them a deposit.
Your hard line likely just needs a new flared end. Perhaps yours got mashed or nicked, or was not seated in the exact center of the fitting when you tightened it? There should be plenty of slack to cut off 1/2 inch of your hard line, re-flare the end, and reinstall it. That's what I did when that joint leaked. BTW, Autozone rents (ie, lends) out those flaring tools for free, if you leave them a deposit.
#4
See photos (towards bottom of album) here: Brake lines replaced on B4000 - Imgur
Your hard line likely just needs a new flared end. Perhaps yours got mashed or nicked, or was not seated in the exact center of the fitting when you tightened it? There should be plenty of slack to cut off 1/2 inch of your hard line, re-flare the end, and reinstall it. That's what I did when that joint leaked. BTW, Autozone rents (ie, lends) out those flaring tools for free, if you leave them a deposit.
Your hard line likely just needs a new flared end. Perhaps yours got mashed or nicked, or was not seated in the exact center of the fitting when you tightened it? There should be plenty of slack to cut off 1/2 inch of your hard line, re-flare the end, and reinstall it. That's what I did when that joint leaked. BTW, Autozone rents (ie, lends) out those flaring tools for free, if you leave them a deposit.
#5
Figured out what the problem was....well, 2 problems:
1) The copper washers that came with the Raybestos kit were 2 different thicknesses! So, when I thought it was compressed, it apparently was only on one side of the banjo bolt. I tried to tighten it down, initially, as much as I could, but I didn't want to strip out the caliper threads. Got new banjo bolts and a 10 pack of OEM washers......fixed.
2) The aftermarket lines are designed to received a bubble flared brake line. Unfortunately, the factory decided to make a concave flared end on my truck, so there was no seal in the housing of the flex line. Also, the threaded fitting was too short on the OEM lines to fully tighten down the aftermarket lines. Replaced entire driver's side hard line with 3/16 line from Napa and fittings. Spliced section into passenger side using a compression fitting. Fixed.
The overall look isn't "pretty," but it's functional, clears the UCA, does not rub any part of the frame, and is bone dry!
Driver's:
Passenger:
Ended up adjusting the rear drums as well, because the adjuster gear was basically completely unlatched. Cleaned everything, fine tuned it all and now my e-brake engages without the pedal almost smashing the floor. Brakes are nice and tight, so time to take her out and play :)
1) The copper washers that came with the Raybestos kit were 2 different thicknesses! So, when I thought it was compressed, it apparently was only on one side of the banjo bolt. I tried to tighten it down, initially, as much as I could, but I didn't want to strip out the caliper threads. Got new banjo bolts and a 10 pack of OEM washers......fixed.
2) The aftermarket lines are designed to received a bubble flared brake line. Unfortunately, the factory decided to make a concave flared end on my truck, so there was no seal in the housing of the flex line. Also, the threaded fitting was too short on the OEM lines to fully tighten down the aftermarket lines. Replaced entire driver's side hard line with 3/16 line from Napa and fittings. Spliced section into passenger side using a compression fitting. Fixed.
The overall look isn't "pretty," but it's functional, clears the UCA, does not rub any part of the frame, and is bone dry!
Driver's:
Passenger:
Ended up adjusting the rear drums as well, because the adjuster gear was basically completely unlatched. Cleaned everything, fine tuned it all and now my e-brake engages without the pedal almost smashing the floor. Brakes are nice and tight, so time to take her out and play :)
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