Shutter/Vibration problem
#1
Shutter/Vibration problem
Newbie here,
I've searched for some help with a problem I'm having with my 99 Ranger S/C XLT 4X4 with the 4.0L. I've got 150,000 miles on this thing now because I mostly drive highway. Only major repair so far has been upper and lower intake gaskets. Anyway, the problem I have is a shutter/vibration in the driveline when coming to a stop, pulling away from a stop, and at highway speeds. The shutter from a stop has long been a nemesis of mine and I actually had the yolk replaced before 20K. The stopping shutter has been increasingly more present. The highway vibration has been present for about 30k and is only getting worse. It kind of feels like wheel hop, but it is not the tires at all. The are wearing great and I can tell by the seat of my pants that this vibration is in the driveline and not the tires/wheels. It seems to get worse when under a load (going up a hill). Does anyone have a suggestion for this? I was thinking yolk and u-joint. Thanks in advance for any advice.
I've searched for some help with a problem I'm having with my 99 Ranger S/C XLT 4X4 with the 4.0L. I've got 150,000 miles on this thing now because I mostly drive highway. Only major repair so far has been upper and lower intake gaskets. Anyway, the problem I have is a shutter/vibration in the driveline when coming to a stop, pulling away from a stop, and at highway speeds. The shutter from a stop has long been a nemesis of mine and I actually had the yolk replaced before 20K. The stopping shutter has been increasingly more present. The highway vibration has been present for about 30k and is only getting worse. It kind of feels like wheel hop, but it is not the tires at all. The are wearing great and I can tell by the seat of my pants that this vibration is in the driveline and not the tires/wheels. It seems to get worse when under a load (going up a hill). Does anyone have a suggestion for this? I was thinking yolk and u-joint. Thanks in advance for any advice.
#2
Vibration for 30K ? Get your driveshaft re-balanced.The welds might have broken on the balance weights.Also try parking on a level surface and blocking the wheels.Put the trans in neutral and try to wiggle the driveshaft up and down at the differential end to make sure the pinion is tight.
#4
#5
change diff fluids, flush tranny fluid, change t-case fluid.......
$185 is high....if you are capable, go get yourself a repair manual and swap the joints yourself......it isn't hard......fluid changes you should do yourself also (except for the tranny flush because you most likely dont have the machine)......it will save you A LOT of money...
just have the shop rebalance the shaft.....that shouldn't cost more than $20-$30...
$185 is high....if you are capable, go get yourself a repair manual and swap the joints yourself......it isn't hard......fluid changes you should do yourself also (except for the tranny flush because you most likely dont have the machine)......it will save you A LOT of money...
just have the shop rebalance the shaft.....that shouldn't cost more than $20-$30...
#6
Ok, well I took it to a shop anyways because I don't have the time right now to fix it myself. I had them change the u-joints and flush the rearend (didn't mess with the front end because 4X4 hasn't worked in a while). Anyway, they claimed the u-joints were fine but suggested I have the driveshaft balanced. However, they would have to remove the flanges to balance the driveshaft and this in turn would cause them to lose the u-joint and they would have to replace them. Since I already was planning on having this done (150,000 miles), I said go for it. Well, it turns out the axle was bent and they couldn't balance it. So, they had to strighten the driveshaft before they could balance it. All in all, it cost me $212 for rearend flush, driveshaft straightening, balancing, and u-joint replacement. They also repacked the slip yoke and I now longer have that annoying shutter coming to a stop and pulling away from a stop.
However, he did tell me that the vibration that I have on the highway is wheel bearings. The vibration is better (no longer feel it in my seat and the gas pedal), but it is still there and feels like it is in the front end. Now, I have the good old PVH ('99 4X4). What are your reccomendations for repairing the wheel bearings? I guess I'll have to get new hubs (sealed bearings), but should I also make and adjustment to the PVH while I'm at it. I haven't had 4WD in a couple of years, but I haven't dug into it to determine to root of the cause (shift motor or PVH). Any suggestions on where to start. Thanks!
However, he did tell me that the vibration that I have on the highway is wheel bearings. The vibration is better (no longer feel it in my seat and the gas pedal), but it is still there and feels like it is in the front end. Now, I have the good old PVH ('99 4X4). What are your reccomendations for repairing the wheel bearings? I guess I'll have to get new hubs (sealed bearings), but should I also make and adjustment to the PVH while I'm at it. I haven't had 4WD in a couple of years, but I haven't dug into it to determine to root of the cause (shift motor or PVH). Any suggestions on where to start. Thanks!
#7
#8
I've had my tires rotated and balanced several times by several different shops thinking that was the problem, but none of that helped. I'm pretty sure that it is the wheel bearings because the front wheels seem loose from time to time when hitting a bump or in certain turning situations.
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