Torque Converter troubles-1996 XLT- 3.0 HELP
#1
07-21-2016
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere, Ct
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Torque Converter troubles-1996 XLT- 3.0 HELP
I have a 4x4 1996 Ranger-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
When I first bought her (heavily used) I could be sitting at a dead stop, and Slam on the gas- and come to a nice smooth acceleration. But after driving cross country, she had started to have problems. First, 4x4 would engage, but not function at optimal torque. 2. Rpm launch: Car will act as if it is in neutral, even in drive- vroom rpms, then slam into gear. 3. Will role down hill even in gear. So, I did a fluid change. The fluid was like black paint. Bad. Then, my father and I dropped the tranny- and did a total torque converter install. Now, I get good 4x4, my check engine light went off, and i no longer get rpm launch, and will not coast down hill. Heres my NEW PROBLEMS! Now when I drive anywhere from 25-40 mph I hear a lihht grinding/Ringing noise. And the truck will not adjust gears. Even in normal drive- it acts like its in first practically. Its just driving rough.
Please help, Im new to the forum, and...- I'm a poor 18 year old trying to pay my way through college and cannot take my baby to the auto mechanics. Im Sorry for the long read. And all help is greatly appreciated.
When I first bought her (heavily used) I could be sitting at a dead stop, and Slam on the gas- and come to a nice smooth acceleration. But after driving cross country, she had started to have problems. First, 4x4 would engage, but not function at optimal torque. 2. Rpm launch: Car will act as if it is in neutral, even in drive- vroom rpms, then slam into gear. 3. Will role down hill even in gear. So, I did a fluid change. The fluid was like black paint. Bad. Then, my father and I dropped the tranny- and did a total torque converter install. Now, I get good 4x4, my check engine light went off, and i no longer get rpm launch, and will not coast down hill. Heres my NEW PROBLEMS! Now when I drive anywhere from 25-40 mph I hear a lihht grinding/Ringing noise. And the truck will not adjust gears. Even in normal drive- it acts like its in first practically. Its just driving rough.
Please help, Im new to the forum, and...- I'm a poor 18 year old trying to pay my way through college and cannot take my baby to the auto mechanics. Im Sorry for the long read. And all help is greatly appreciated.
#2
07-22-2016
You have a 4R44E transmission in a '96 Ranger 3.0l
The dark fluid meant transmission was run hot(over 200degF) for long periods, that caused the torque converter issue and is now causing the other issues.
Automatics run on pressure, running hot causes seals and gaskets to deteriorate, when you start to loose internal pressure then you start to get shifting issues, at its worst you loose Reverse, it needs highest pressure.
You could try changing the valve body and test/change solenoids, that can be done in the truck.
But in my opinion a full rebuild would be a better long term solution.
And ALWAYS have 2 transmission coolers with an automatic, there is one already in the radiator, you need to add a 2nd one on one of those lines to the rad.
It won't fix current problem, it keeps it from happening again
The dark fluid meant transmission was run hot(over 200degF) for long periods, that caused the torque converter issue and is now causing the other issues.
Automatics run on pressure, running hot causes seals and gaskets to deteriorate, when you start to loose internal pressure then you start to get shifting issues, at its worst you loose Reverse, it needs highest pressure.
You could try changing the valve body and test/change solenoids, that can be done in the truck.
But in my opinion a full rebuild would be a better long term solution.
And ALWAYS have 2 transmission coolers with an automatic, there is one already in the radiator, you need to add a 2nd one on one of those lines to the rad.
It won't fix current problem, it keeps it from happening again
#3
03-28-2020
Member
The fix is in
Take RonD’s advice don’t waste your time and money on testing this an that. Pull the sucker out of there get you a plug & play Sonax valve body, new torque convertor or, 10 qt Merc-V full syn and a good soft kit(Ron-D can help you source the parts). put it all back together
and unless you’re one hell of an 18-year-old mechanic an Albert Einstein if you will there is a little or no chance that it will pull out of the garage when you are finished.
trust me I know what I’m talking about I just went through this myself spent several hundred dollars testing this and that probably pissed of one of my best friends who has worked on my trucks for years I finally decided since I have been turning the wrenches for 60 years I can do this I will take a little longer than it should I got a few more gray hairs that I had a week ago busted a couple George Brown figure it out but Ryan runs runs good
and unless you’re one hell of an 18-year-old mechanic an Albert Einstein if you will there is a little or no chance that it will pull out of the garage when you are finished.
trust me I know what I’m talking about I just went through this myself spent several hundred dollars testing this and that probably pissed of one of my best friends who has worked on my trucks for years I finally decided since I have been turning the wrenches for 60 years I can do this I will take a little longer than it should I got a few more gray hairs that I had a week ago busted a couple George Brown figure it out but Ryan runs runs good
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