Here is the install of EBC USR rotors and EBC Yellowstuff pads onto my 2002 2wd Ranger Edge.
Tools needed:
A jack
Jackstands
An impact gun
Sockets for the impact
A hand ratchet
Assorted sockets for the ratchet
A flathead screwdriver
Wheel bearing grease
A torque wrench
A bottle of Loctite
First jack the truck up and place it on a jackstand. Then remove the wheel.
Next go ahead and unbolt the caliper from the bracket, then make a little hanger to hold it out of the way. Do not let it dangle by the brake line.
Unbolt the caliper bracket and place it out of the way.
Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, and retaining bolt. Now pull the disk off of the spindle. Wipe all the old grease off of the spindle also.
The new bearings come with new races also, these disks already have races in them so you can discard the races that came with the bearings.
Pack your new inner bearing with wheel bearing grease, there are several ways to do this but by far the easiest is to use a grease gun and buy a cheap bearing packer attachment which will run you ~$10. Also put some grease inbetween the bearing race and the bearing itself.
Install your new seal over them.
Pack and install your new outer bearing just like the inner. Apply a decent amount of grease to the spindle and slide the new rotor on. Now put the old washer back on and thread the retaining bolt on by hand.
Here is the procedure for tightening the retaining nut.
With it tightened install the little piece that keeps it from coming out.
Install a new cotter pin.
Now put a nice amount of grease onto all of it.
Reinstall your dust cap.
Reinstall the caliper bracket, I used a little bit of blue Loctite on the bolts since they were pretty loose when I took them off.
Put the new pads in place.
Put the caliper back on and bolt it back down. You will have to most likely push the pistons back in to get it to fit. This can be done by placing an old pad over them and then using a C clamp to push them back in. Be careful, brake fluid may come out of the reservoir when you do this.
Now reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side. Now is a good time to replace your brake fluid also, but the rain stopped us from being able to do that today.
The proper way to bed these in according to EBC is to go from 40mph to a complete stop five times with one minute intervals inbetween and apply more brake pressure after every one. Be sure to do this on a closed road or a road with no traffic.
Here is a comparison video between the two. And no, it was no comparing them to pads that were shot. They had plenty of life still left in them. The difference between the two is night and day. I haven't had any squeeking yet either and they bite GREAT cold and hot.
I replaced my front brakes a month ago. New calipers, pads, rotors, and while I was in there, I figured I might as well do new bearings too for the price it cost.
One problem though, yesterday I was driving and I can tell, that for the second time my driver side bearing is coming loose. I haveput 2500 km on the truck since I did the job, and at first, about 500km after I had the bearing go lose, I had to re-tighten the spindle nut again (while rotating the rotor, back off, and retighten again).
I plan on dissassembling the whole thing either this evening or tomorrow, inspectng and repacking the bearings, but what should I look out for, why are my bearings coming loose?
Any ideas?
Also: I used the grease the parts store sold me with my bearings, a castrol bearing/chassis grease in a bucket. Its the ugly yellow color one, and I notice that when I take my dust cap off its already blackish looking around my bearing.
Maybe i will get one of those bearing packers to make life easy. But the grease in my gun is that "high-pressure", "high-temp" grease with the molebedium (is that how to spell it?) in it - which I got for my ball joints. They guy at the store said it ain't good for bearings, is that true, or is it fine to use to re-pack my bearings if I buy that bearing packer device.
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2003 Ranger XLT 2wd 4.0L Deep Wedgewood Blue FTW!
Hella 500 Driving lights, Line-x over the top of the rails, Front & Rear hitches, Ford Soft Tonneau, Clear corners w/swapped OEM housings, All chrome bulbs (no more ugly yellow!)
Explorer OHC, Explorer Lighted Visors, 2006 Explorer 6-CD
Chassis grease is NOT the same as wheel bearing grease .Wheel bearing grease usually comes in a TUB not a TUBE.It is much thicker than the grease you would use for ball joints , u-joints , and tie-rod ends.
Chassis grease will break down and burn when used in the wheel brearings.
Make sure the tub says High Temperature Wheel Bearing grease.
The stuff I used on the bearings came in a bucket, and it said wheel bearing/chassis grease right on it.
I need to go get some more cotter pins anyways before I do this project, so I am going to get something better.
To tighten my spindle nut, I torqued to the 28 ft-lb, backed off, and then tightened by hand with only a socket (no ratchet), I just grabbed the right size deep socket in my hand and tightened it as much as I can that way.
Quote:why are my bearings coming loose?
When replacing the race for the inner bearing , be certain it is seated all the way in.It is possible that as you're driving , the race is working it's way the farther into the hub thereby loosening the bearings.
Also look at the washer that goes between the spindle nut and outer bearing.Does it have a tang on the inside that sits in a groove on the spindle ? If not , the direction the bearing is turning will spin the washer and loosen the nut.
Big difference on the distance. Those are the original brakes right? lol As for the vid, I almost forgot how beautiful she sounds with that flowmaster Delta 40. :)
So I've put a decent amount of miles on the truck with these pads and brakes. If having little to no brake dust outweighs having better stopping power, these pads are not for you. With the old crappy pads that were in there I got almost no brake dust at all, with these I get a noticeable amount more.
I still have yet to hear these squeak, even when they are cold or on cold days I haven't heard a thing yet. They still have excellent stopping power, and I still recommend them.
How to: Install EBC brakes and pads
