I'm doing my friends brakes on his 93 4WD, any tools torque specs I will need. Probably pick up a manual, but does the lock nut use the 4 prong deal or an actual large socket? Can anyone give me a heads up so I can collect tools before pulling it apart?

 

Can't give an specific advice, only dealt with 2wd, but check out Autozone.com and sign up for their free tech section. They most likely have the procedures, torque specs, and exploded diagrams for the job for Free. I use the site often for info.

 

I did them on a 91 Ranger and even though it was about 10 years ago, I don't remember anything that wasn't staright forward. I don't have any special tools an I managed to do it.

~HJ

 

besides the 4 prong socket for the spindle nut, no special tools are required. but if youre good with a punch and hammer you could even get around that. im not sure of torque specs on the spindle nut, ive always done it by feel. its a pretty straight forward job

 

Inner nut is spec'd at 35 lb/ft, outter nut is spec'd at 150 lb/ft. I personally try to run the bearings as loose as possible without there being any freeplay (25 lbs maybe), and then pound that outter nut as tight as possible (175 lbs-ish). I find the bearings last better if they're allowed to run cooler/looser. Make sure the tire spins freely after its all installed, and if it seems too tight then pull it all apart and loosen them up a touch.

You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers for the c-clips, spindle nut, torque wrench/breaker bar, and a hammer and chisel or screwdriver to drive the caliper pins out. Rags and bearing grease will be needed to repack the bearings. Brake Clean to spray the rotors/pads afterwards too, and you *might* have to bleed the brakes but I doubt it (pair of channel lock pliers are handy for compressing the calipers). LR

 

Awesome, all confirms what I have read. I'll get the 4 prong, jsut another excuse for more tools!

Forgot about the Auto Zone site, thanks!