Haven't posted in a LONG time...have an issue.
For years now, the interior door lock switch on driver side will sometimes cut out. Sometimes it works, other times it will only unlock, but not lock, and yet other instances both lock and unlock won't work - at times, firmly but gently hitting the door just below the switch will get it to re-engage, which tells me a connection problem somewhere. A few years back I pulled the panel, checked all connections, got working perfectly fine for a few days and then symptoms returned. I have lived with this as the key fob works fine, as does the passenger side door lock switch.
I go to run errands, unlock the truck with my fob, grab the exterior driver side door handle to open. Upon lifting the handle, the driver side door automatically locks itself (but able to open the door). If I unlock with either the fob or with interior switches, it will also lock itself by either lifting the driver side exterior handle or the driver side interior handle. If I double press the unlock on the fob (unlocking both driver and passenger sides) and then repeat lifting of either interior/exterior door handle, it will lock.
From the interior, if I unlock immediately after the above, it will only lock upon the initial time and any attempts to lift interior handle for an "exit" results in the door functioning properly. From the exterior, it will still "automatically" lock the door from an unlocked position.
Search Result (singular) that had no follow-ups...
2010 elec door lock issues
Possible remedy, but will have to wait...I bought dielectric grease months ago but haven't gotten around to unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the door electrical panel. My thinking was that if the connection is within the switch or connector, that dielectric grease will aid in bridging the connection. I do have 2 other driver side switches from interior panels I picked up from junkyards and these other switches behave just the same as described above.