I'm looking to replace my alternator with a high output alternator. The ones at summit are like $200 for a 130 amp and $400 for a 200amp

They have some here at various ampages for MUCH cheaper. I'd probably go with like a 200amp one from there for $225 which is MUCH cheaper.

92-05 Ranger 2.3/2.5/3.0/4.0L


which brings me to my main questions.

-They list them for up to the 05 4.0 but my 06 4.0 should be the same right? the ones at summit say for 05-07 and I can't see it changing from 05-06. Another thing that confuses me, the alternator is listed as good for 92-05, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense, and also for the 2.3, 2.5, 3.0, and 4.0 so are they really all the same alternator? In addition to this confusion, on their ebay store, they are listed for 92-97 rangers rather than the 92-05 listed on their site.

-What do you think of getting alternators from this company? good/bad idea? know anything about them? found the link in the TRS tech section

-Is 200amps excessive? I can get a 170 amp for $50 cheaper, but I will spend more if that's what I will need. I'm having dimming of the headlights, have done the big 3, and have a 1200 watt audioque amp and FI sub in addition to a set of hellas wired with the brights.

any suggestions are helpful.

 

I honestly have no idea when it comes to the newer Rangers when it comes to interchangeability.
But... when I upgraded mine a couple years ago, I got a 200a from an alternator company off evilBay (alterstarter or something like that).
Here's a pic of mine:



So far, so good. I get 14.0v to 15.0v at idle no matter how much stuff I have turned on; amps, headlights, AC, wipers, etc, I always have 14.0v or more.

One thing to watch for is the way they rate the amperage, mine was rated at 200a at idle while I've seen some rated 200a at 2500rpm+.
Mine was only about $250 shipped back then.

When you mentioned "wired Hella's with the brights", did you connect them directly with the high beams or did you use the high beam wires as a trigger for a relay?
Running the Hella's along with the brights on the factory wiring isn't a good idea. You're asking the OEM wiring to handle double the load which could melt the wiring and will likely make both your lights dim at times.

Running the Hella's on a relay triggered by the brights would be ok though. This way, the Hella's will be powered directly from the battery thru the relay.

When you did the Big 3, what gauge wire did you use?
Did you upgrade ALL the grounds too? Grounds are as important as the power.

When I did the Big 3, I used 1/0ga wire but 4ga would probably be large enough.

 

the hellas are on a relay. and I went with 1/0 gauge.

you can see the pics of my big 3 at the link above, i upgraded battery ground, engine ground, and power to alternator.

 

I do not think the 200 amp is over kill IF you need the current NOW or in the FUTURE.
Replace your battery(s) at the same time and as the buggman stated replace the wiring with properly sized fine stranded cable for both the Main charging wire and the grounding system.

Run a ground to one of the mounting bolt of the alternator and another ground to one of the starter mounting bolts. This gives both the Charging System and the Starter the best paths possible for full current movement. Also while you are at it run a new ground to the body and frame of the vehicle, alway helps but at least can’t hurt.

 

i've replaced the wiring (though not on the starter... thats a new one for me.)
my ground from the alternator bolt runs to the body... is this what you meant? i'm getting the impression you're talking about separate ground wires when you mention alternator ground and body ground.

and I don't think i will replace the battery at the same time. don't want to spend $400 on this yet, my current battery has life left and I'd liek to replace it in the future, just not now.

 

What amp rating fuses are on the chassis of your "1200" watt amp?

Your Hella's are only drawing 10 amp, max

The factory alternator is in the 95-105a range if it isn't already a 130a. The 200a alternators from Powermaster are nice.

If you're seeing the lights dim at idle then you have no major problems...if they're dimming over 2k rpms then i'd worry

 

but regardless, a higher output alternator would minimize dimming at all rpms?

and i will have to check the amp ratings. didn't think the hellas drew that much but fgured id mention it.

 

buggman... i hope your alternator is not putting out 14-15V at idle. if it is i would seriously worry about te computer in your truck and other electronics. most electronics and ecu will only withstand power surges in the mid 14s not constant power. and when cruising and driving around in higher rpm ranges the voltage will increase

 

If you replace the alternator and not the battery and the battery is weak and shows signs of being weak it can take out the alternator when it goes bad… not always, keep an eye on it.

Yes and No ! yes it will have additional amperage needed to power high draw components but if the grounding system and cabling is not cleaned up and enlarged to carry the additional loads then the lights and amp can still have troubles.

I was under the impression that the newer vehicles need 14+ volts all the time and in the future the vehicle will be either 16 or 24 volts.
Just heard something.

 

I have upgraded wiring though, which helped some but... not all the way.

 

It should be fine, i am playing the Devil’s Advocate…

Good Luck with the project, sounds like you have been doing it right.

Watch the battery for over charging, it can be a problem too.