effects of removing sway bar...
#26
#28
i took my front bar off about 3 months ago and i dont think i will ever put it back on. the front end is way softer and has more articulation. theres more body roll, but i dont mind. i have an open diff, and it slips is you really push the truck, but im going to buy a LS diff anyway. its all good
#30
At the expense of handling. Unless your shocks are in very good shape, I wouldn't do it for normal highway use unless you drive like Buckgnarly or someones grandmother. Carl takes it very easy on the street because he usually has his removed.
Theres so little travel in the front, I think you can detach just one side. Completely remove the link between the bar and the spindle on one side and that's it.
Theres so little travel in the front, I think you can detach just one side. Completely remove the link between the bar and the spindle on one side and that's it.
#32
Don't know, Kiel. I've never spent much time behind the wheel of a TTB truck, nor spent much time without swaybars!
But the warnings about body roll can be serious: it's well known that excessive body roll can get you into a bad oversteer situation suddenly and lead to a rollover incident. Not my idea of a good time. The problem with the swaybars being off is that it can sneak up on you, so you can't be casual about high speed maneuvering.
But the warnings about body roll can be serious: it's well known that excessive body roll can get you into a bad oversteer situation suddenly and lead to a rollover incident. Not my idea of a good time. The problem with the swaybars being off is that it can sneak up on you, so you can't be casual about high speed maneuvering.
#33
#34
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
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well i dont make high speen manuvers because...well...i cant reach high speed
but anyway, i driven my dads truck with sway bars and i didnt notice any difference...actually i think the tires have a lot to do with it as well. a MT is gunna have adverse handling effects...trust me...i know, heh.
anyway...now im curious...is the IFS TTB front and IFS t-bar front that much different that a sway bar is almost nesseccary for them?
but anyway, i driven my dads truck with sway bars and i didnt notice any difference...actually i think the tires have a lot to do with it as well. a MT is gunna have adverse handling effects...trust me...i know, heh.
anyway...now im curious...is the IFS TTB front and IFS t-bar front that much different that a sway bar is almost nesseccary for them?
#35
#37
John, do what I do, if I know you you're looking for the cheap way out. And thats what I do with the sway bars. Like was said there is just a long bolt that holds the bar to the a-arm. You can't take the bolt out unless you jack the truck up, the a-arm has to doop a little to get it out. So what u have to do is put the bolt in from the bottom, instead of the top (like it comes). Than b4 you get to the trail, you climb under the truck and take the bolt off, (I think it is a 15mm and 17mm bolt and nut) now that the bolt slides right out from the bottom. You only have to take one side off. We don't have enough flex for the bar to limit anything. Works great, free mod.
And the here is what I found out from flexing. With the bar on climbed this RTI like sand hill and got the rear tire in the air 1.5 inches. Took the bar off climbed the same hill to the same pt, tire was touching the ground. So you do gain a little flex. Good luck.
And the here is what I found out from flexing. With the bar on climbed this RTI like sand hill and got the rear tire in the air 1.5 inches. Took the bar off climbed the same hill to the same pt, tire was touching the ground. So you do gain a little flex. Good luck.
#38
Excellent, Adrian! Thanks for the tip on that bolt. I was sure you really only needed to detach one side. If you do both, then you have to do something with the bar itself to keep it from slamming around. That trick of reversing the bolt is a GREAT idea, and I'm going to set that up tomorrow when I change out my rear spring pack in preparation for the new axle and all.
#39
Here are some pictures of a stainless steel quick disconnect. The article says that a version of this design was being made for 98+ Rangers in 1999. I can't find the manufacturer's site today, though. Still, it's a nice picture if anyone needs a model to work from.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/persson/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/persson/
#40
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old i know but this needs to be addresses...
the 97 and older rangers use a TTB front suspension and is different then the 98+ tbar...
they make antiswaybar quick disconnects for 4x4 trucks. my friend has them on his '97 4x4 Ranger and he just pops them off when he goes offroading. they're cheap, too, and easy to play with.
#42
Originally Posted by rwenzing
John, here's a photo of a set on a 2002 4x4. I don't know where he got them but his cardomain is http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/772718/1
His ID is SOKSNIFFER and I think he might be on ORR if you want to look him up.
His ID is SOKSNIFFER and I think he might be on ORR if you want to look him up.
Originally Posted by Wilson Turner
Hi;
Regarding the swaybar disconnects, I ordered them from 4wheelparts but
anybody who sells Warrior Products items can order them for you;
they're listed as being for for 95+ Explorers, and the Warrior
Products part number is WAR85203. They're rather pricey at $105 or
something like that, and, having seen what goes into them, I think you
could make them yourself fairly easily. The last time I was at
AutoZone I happened to see a bunch of different swaybar links that
could be modified without too much trouble to be
quick-disconnects--really the only fancy part of the Ford-style links
are the end pieces... uh... the name of which escapes me at the
moment. But anyway, if I were doing it over again, I'd take off my
stock swaybar links, take them in with me to an auto parts store and
go from there. You could probably have something put together in an
afternoon for <$25.
Wilson
Regarding the swaybar disconnects, I ordered them from 4wheelparts but
anybody who sells Warrior Products items can order them for you;
they're listed as being for for 95+ Explorers, and the Warrior
Products part number is WAR85203. They're rather pricey at $105 or
something like that, and, having seen what goes into them, I think you
could make them yourself fairly easily. The last time I was at
AutoZone I happened to see a bunch of different swaybar links that
could be modified without too much trouble to be
quick-disconnects--really the only fancy part of the Ford-style links
are the end pieces... uh... the name of which escapes me at the
moment. But anyway, if I were doing it over again, I'd take off my
stock swaybar links, take them in with me to an auto parts store and
go from there. You could probably have something put together in an
afternoon for <$25.
Wilson
$100 or so is just too much for me to spend for the capability (I'm still terminally cheap).
#46
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