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How-to Help: Removing, connecting shackles to leafspring

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Old 11-27-2010
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How-to Help: Removing, connecting shackles to leafspring

Hey, so my current rear setup is beltech 6400 shackles, 4" skyjacker leafspring, and the stock 1" block which came with the 08 rangers.

I want to try to correct the rear axle location and center it out in the wheel well a bit more... Apparently the 4" leaf has a tendency to push the axle forward a little, in combination with the shackle it is a little worse.

The back end is high enough that I want to play with the idea of either popping the leafs out of the lowest hole in the beltech shackles and trying them in a couple of the different holes (photo below for ref) to see if dropping the back end down a bit could help, or possibly even try the stock shackles and see if it improves that axle without tilting the truck backward.

However, I don't have any experience with leafsprings and I first off wouldn't want to unbolt them and then not be able to get them back in, I don't want to hurt myself by not knowing the mechanics involved, like not knowing if they're under a lot of pressure, how to release the pressure etc etc.

I would love some tips, suggested techniques, warnings etc for disconnecting the leafs from the shackles, and then putting them back on, thanks.

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Old 11-27-2010
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Leaf springs are not as dangerous as coil springs but you still need to take caution. First off you need to jack the rear of the truck up and put it on jack stands, under the frame with the tires off the ground(you did block the front tires didn't you?). Take you jack and put it under the pumkin to support the weight of the rearend. You should now be able to safely relocate your bolts in your shackles. As new as your truck is you shouldn't have problems removing the bolts or reassembling it. Just jack the jack up to raise the rear to the next set of holes. I would do one side at a time.
 
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Old 11-27-2010
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Originally Posted by wvcat
Take you jack and put it under the pumkin to support the weight of the rearend. .
I assume that would be the diff on the axle in the middle?? and when I put the jack under it, I assume I don't want to put any pressure on the jack, compressing the leafs? I just want to touch the jack to the bottom so there is no weight on the bolts and so when the bolts are out the axle doesn't swing down to the ground?

and is there any specific rule for tightening the bolts? a certain torque or certain amount of tightness you should feel by hand?
 
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Old 11-27-2010
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Yeah just support the rearend. I am sure there is a recommended torque for the bolts, I don't have the spec but I usually just tighten them as tight as I can. BTW you should have the ruck on the ground for the final tightening of the bolts, that way the are tight in the ride position.
 
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Old 11-27-2010
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the shackles are whats pushing your axle forward. i just took mine out because of that
 
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Old 11-28-2010
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thanks for the how to help. and thanks 99offroadrngr for letting me know. I'm hoping that even just moving down a hole or too will level out the truck and help shift the axle back even close to where it should be.
 
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Old 11-28-2010
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Careful what hole you use, you need that shackle to allow the spring to flatten out. Too short of a shackle and your limiting/putting all the strain on the frame mounts, not a good idea.
Keep in mind the axle may move backwards as your suspension cycles upward.
 
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Old 11-28-2010
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Originally Posted by buckgnarly
Careful what hole you use, you need that shackle to allow the spring to flatten out. Too short of a shackle and your limiting/putting all the strain on the frame mounts, not a good idea.
Keep in mind the axle may move backwards as your suspension cycles upward.
I figured I could measure the stock shackles and as long as the hole I use is the same length or greater I see no reason it would be an issue. and It does move back a bit but not nearly enough, and Its the standing/road driving stance that bugs me. I'm sure if it was flexing etc it would be shifting around but I just don't like how it looks as it sits.
 
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