more front 3 link with a panhard questions...
#1
more front 3 link with a panhard questions...
So I want to get this underway, currently my problem consists of during travel my truck changes caster, if the suspension compresses only 2" caster changes over 4*, this isnt cool.
I started measuring tonight, and this is the questions i came up with.
6" of link separation enough on the axle end?
does the upper need to be parallel to the lowers?
if it doesnt need to be parallel will 4" of separation be enough on the frame end?
i have read i can keep the upper 75% of the length of the lowers? correct?
I would like to do a passenger side upper.
Do the lowers need to be at some type of side angle? or can they be straight?
btw any type of radius arm setup is worthless as i am finding out. unless you like them to be flat.(crappy clearance)
I started measuring tonight, and this is the questions i came up with.
6" of link separation enough on the axle end?
does the upper need to be parallel to the lowers?
if it doesnt need to be parallel will 4" of separation be enough on the frame end?
i have read i can keep the upper 75% of the length of the lowers? correct?
I would like to do a passenger side upper.
Do the lowers need to be at some type of side angle? or can they be straight?
btw any type of radius arm setup is worthless as i am finding out. unless you like them to be flat.(crappy clearance)
#2
Zach..
6" of link seperation on the axle end seems just abit too little. I've read and understand the distance of seperation should be ~25% the diameter of your tire. You running 37's would put you around 9", which isn't horrible, especially if your lower links are towards the bottom part of the axle tube.
I don't believe the upper needs to be parallel to the lowers. In fact, you probably want the upper to be as horizontal as possible, while keeping the lowers within 5-10* off horitzontal.
As for the seperation on the frame, all you can do is run with the 4" dimension and see how it works? In my planning, I'm going to figure on the frame placement of my upper first, then figure out the lengths of the lowers based on that, and of course their frame location.
And lastly, I would imagine you can place the lowers as straight in line with the frame as possible. The front diff would be the only limiting factor.
Keep sharing on this topic, Zach, as I'm curious to see where your ideas go in relation to mine.
6" of link seperation on the axle end seems just abit too little. I've read and understand the distance of seperation should be ~25% the diameter of your tire. You running 37's would put you around 9", which isn't horrible, especially if your lower links are towards the bottom part of the axle tube.
I don't believe the upper needs to be parallel to the lowers. In fact, you probably want the upper to be as horizontal as possible, while keeping the lowers within 5-10* off horitzontal.
As for the seperation on the frame, all you can do is run with the 4" dimension and see how it works? In my planning, I'm going to figure on the frame placement of my upper first, then figure out the lengths of the lowers based on that, and of course their frame location.
And lastly, I would imagine you can place the lowers as straight in line with the frame as possible. The front diff would be the only limiting factor.
Keep sharing on this topic, Zach, as I'm curious to see where your ideas go in relation to mine.
#3
your right, i should have known on link separation, i had read 25% before and forgot. I think I could handle 9" my lowers maybe below the axle tube though, I want to keep decent up travel.
horizontal would be great on the upper. but to be horizontal on the upper it would HAVE to be the same length as the lowers?
I mean if the upper is flat and the lowers are at 5* when the axle started to droop wouldnt the caster still change? i am having a hard time picturing this. Actually if the lowers are longer then the shorter horizontal upper would travel the same right?
Crappy part is school starts in a few weeks, so it will have to wait until fall break or something. I am really hoping to keep my current coil buckets and ditch the rest of the tabs and such on the axle.
How do you calculate squat, dive, anti-dive and such during braking? is this something you have to watch in person? or what?
horizontal would be great on the upper. but to be horizontal on the upper it would HAVE to be the same length as the lowers?
I mean if the upper is flat and the lowers are at 5* when the axle started to droop wouldnt the caster still change? i am having a hard time picturing this. Actually if the lowers are longer then the shorter horizontal upper would travel the same right?
Crappy part is school starts in a few weeks, so it will have to wait until fall break or something. I am really hoping to keep my current coil buckets and ditch the rest of the tabs and such on the axle.
How do you calculate squat, dive, anti-dive and such during braking? is this something you have to watch in person? or what?
#4
So I think I can squeeze a passenger side upper.
Thinking something like this
I think if the upper is at 2-3 degrees or even flat then I can have decent up travel before the link hits anything.
Make the lowers at 5*
Now even those links are the same length, do they have to be the same length for sure?
Looking at this picture I think I have the clearance, but its going to be really close to that exhaust.
Thinking something like this
I think if the upper is at 2-3 degrees or even flat then I can have decent up travel before the link hits anything.
Make the lowers at 5*
Now even those links are the same length, do they have to be the same length for sure?
Looking at this picture I think I have the clearance, but its going to be really close to that exhaust.
#6
#7
So after some more looking and measuring tonight...
I think I know what I want for sure.
Going to run 2.63" Ballistic JJ on both ends of the links.
2"x.25"wall Lowers that are 58" long
1.75x.120"wall upper that is also 54" long
I have 2.5" of clearance between the exhaust and the frame. I plan to cut the tranny crossmember out and I will have to make something for that, what? not really sure but something else can be made.
So passenger side upper that is 1.75"od 54" long and about 9" of separation at the axle end, and 6 at the frame. With the axle mount set just right I think I might even be able to gain more up travel than i have now which is about 4", thinking even as much as 7" total.
The most frustrating part is all the grinding I will have to do to get it to the point of going back under the truck. and its too late in the summer to start a project.
I think I know what I want for sure.
Going to run 2.63" Ballistic JJ on both ends of the links.
2"x.25"wall Lowers that are 58" long
1.75x.120"wall upper that is also 54" long
I have 2.5" of clearance between the exhaust and the frame. I plan to cut the tranny crossmember out and I will have to make something for that, what? not really sure but something else can be made.
So passenger side upper that is 1.75"od 54" long and about 9" of separation at the axle end, and 6 at the frame. With the axle mount set just right I think I might even be able to gain more up travel than i have now which is about 4", thinking even as much as 7" total.
The most frustrating part is all the grinding I will have to do to get it to the point of going back under the truck. and its too late in the summer to start a project.
#9
Have you downloaded the 3 link calculator yet?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893
Truck is looking great btw.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893
Truck is looking great btw.
#12
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