RCD Suspension Question
#1
RCD Suspension Question
Eventually im going to start buying everything to lift the ranger but have a few more questions before i do so. I am not going to use the RCD shackle / AAL to lift the rear of the truck. I want to do it the right way and not the cheap way. So i was wondering if i bought a pair of skyjacker 4 inch lift leaf springs and kept the stock block will the truck sit the same height as it would with the RCD shackle and AAL?
#4
#5
you MIGHT be able to get away without the lift block! I'll have to measure the difference between OEM shackle and RCD shackle. I'm running the RCD shackle + 2.5in lift deavers and no lift block. It's so awesome having no wheel hop/axle wrap. The torsen l/s actually feels like it works better too!
Anyhow, with 4in lift springs you might be able to do the same. I worry though, that with 4inch springs and 2.5in OEM lift block you may be too long. That's 6.5 inches of lift in the rear - I believe the most you can get out of the front is 6inches of left through cranking the coils, which will probably lead to faster coil sag on the RCD springs. Thus causing you to need new coils.
Anyhow, with 4in lift springs you might be able to do the same. I worry though, that with 4inch springs and 2.5in OEM lift block you may be too long. That's 6.5 inches of lift in the rear - I believe the most you can get out of the front is 6inches of left through cranking the coils, which will probably lead to faster coil sag on the RCD springs. Thus causing you to need new coils.
#6
Originally Posted by Lefty04LevelII
you MIGHT be able to get away without the lift block! I'll have to measure the difference between OEM shackle and RCD shackle. I'm running the RCD shackle + 2.5in lift deavers and no lift block. It's so awesome having no wheel hop/axle wrap. The torsen l/s actually feels like it works better too!
Anyhow, with 4in lift springs you might be able to do the same. I worry though, that with 4inch springs and 2.5in OEM lift block you may be too long. That's 6.5 inches of lift in the rear - I believe the most you can get out of the front is 6inches of left through cranking the coils, which will probably lead to faster coil sag on the RCD springs. Thus causing you to need new coils.
Anyhow, with 4in lift springs you might be able to do the same. I worry though, that with 4inch springs and 2.5in OEM lift block you may be too long. That's 6.5 inches of lift in the rear - I believe the most you can get out of the front is 6inches of left through cranking the coils, which will probably lead to faster coil sag on the RCD springs. Thus causing you to need new coils.
#7
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
let me know if it works, and how much it costs.. i have a feeling it will be less than deavers which is one of my other 2 choices..
edit: they make 265/75 IROKS??
edit: they make 265/75 IROKS??
Also i have the ND (Non-Directional) version of the Super Swamper Iroks. They only come in these sizes:
235/75r16
245/75R16
265/75R16
285/75R16
You can get them here, i got them from a 4x4 shop in NY though.
http://www.ntwonline.com/acb/showdet...t=14&Pcount=14
#9
if you do that then you will need to cut/grind the leaf spring perches off and get new ones, change the pinion angle and weld them back on.
you have to remember that shackle does more then just lift. it is twisting the axle to where the pinion is at a better angle. it also helps with articulation. a shackle and AAL is not a "cheap" way to lift. just inexpensive.
if you do not use the shackle and you do not move the spring perches you will get axle wrap like no other and wear out U joints.
personally i think it is easier to use the shackle and the 4" skyjacker leaf springs with no blocks.
another option would be the 6" skyjacker springs with Beltech Chevy Shackles which are not as long as the RCD.
Yet another option would be Chevy leaf spring swap with 2wd 1/2 ton springs and with the RCD shackle.
another option could be the Chevy leaf spring swap with chevy 3.5" lift springs and the beltech shackle.
heck i could go on and on.
you have to remember that shackle does more then just lift. it is twisting the axle to where the pinion is at a better angle. it also helps with articulation. a shackle and AAL is not a "cheap" way to lift. just inexpensive.
if you do not use the shackle and you do not move the spring perches you will get axle wrap like no other and wear out U joints.
personally i think it is easier to use the shackle and the 4" skyjacker leaf springs with no blocks.
another option would be the 6" skyjacker springs with Beltech Chevy Shackles which are not as long as the RCD.
Yet another option would be Chevy leaf spring swap with 2wd 1/2 ton springs and with the RCD shackle.
another option could be the Chevy leaf spring swap with chevy 3.5" lift springs and the beltech shackle.
heck i could go on and on.
#10
Originally Posted by 4x404Edge
Well the pair of skyjacker 4 inch springs are like $410 dollars or so shipped to the house! Which is a lot less then deavers.
Also i have the ND (Non-Directional) version of the Super Swamper Iroks. They only come in these sizes:
235/75r16
245/75R16
265/75R16
285/75R16
You can get them here, i got them from a 4x4 shop in NY though.
http://www.ntwonline.com/acb/showdet...t=14&Pcount=14
Also i have the ND (Non-Directional) version of the Super Swamper Iroks. They only come in these sizes:
235/75r16
245/75R16
265/75R16
285/75R16
You can get them here, i got them from a 4x4 shop in NY though.
http://www.ntwonline.com/acb/showdet...t=14&Pcount=14
#14
hmmm i didnt know that if i just swapped out my old leafs with lifted leafs it would cause axle wrap and change the pinion angle. Also I really dont want to mess with cutting off the old spring perches and trying to figure out the proper pinion angle then welding them back on.
Would it hurt my truck in any way to run it without the block as long as i had enough lift in the springs to make up for the loss from the block. I know my blocks have the bump stop on them. So what would i have to do to run it without the block?
Would it hurt my truck in any way to run it without the block as long as i had enough lift in the springs to make up for the loss from the block. I know my blocks have the bump stop on them. So what would i have to do to run it without the block?
#16
Originally Posted by gumby
you dont hafta cut the perches off to change pinion angle. they also sell angled shims.
to run w/o the OEM block you need to get a taller bumpstop to attach to the frame.
to run w/o the OEM block you need to get a taller bumpstop to attach to the frame.
Also without the OEM block, where do the taller bumpstops hit? The axle tube or something?
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#25
Originally Posted by Big04Ranger
why pay the $600 some bucks for ranger springs when u can get lifted chevys for half that? i paid $325 for my pair of chevys