ok on my ranger the stock camber bushings are fixed as in not rotateable. im not sure at the moment of there degree. now my problem is, few people say get the adjustable camber bushings (they rotate) some say goto alignment shop and let them put in fixed camber bushings.

ive had a few people say dont get adjustable ones beacause they "can" over time turn and come out of adjustment. (makes sence) i know for a fact my stock ford ones have a little ear that slips into a opening in the I beam and keeps it from turning.

so im stumped, i hate to go spend 35 bux for adjustable camber bushings and install them myself and have the shop say they are no good. soo WTF?!?

 

You could talk to the shop first, but with as many people as I have heard of running them I don't think it is a big problem to worry about. After the alignment, look to see the position of the adjusters, write it down, and check it periodically.

 

yea. my boss who im a plumbing aprentice too has all ford work trucks which have the same suspension, he has a 95 f350 and a 02 e350 right now and he had the adjustable bushings in the beams and the shop took em out and put fixed ones in. they told him he wasted his moeny. he has a very extensive automotice background so i personaly belive he isent full of hot air.

 

get the fixed bushings for the TTB......the adjustable bushings will rotate......

You should be able to use the same bushings unless you lift the truck or there is other problems......

 

well im going with skyjacker leveling coils.....so im trying to be prepaired just incase i need them.

i had a bit of a run in with a VERY LARGE rut a week ago. full of water and at night. i bent my left front beam. i bowed it forward about 1 1/2" between the radius arm bolt and the beam hinge point. it also hosed my toe settings, and finished off my OEM front coils. i used to be able to put my middle finger and pointer side by side verticaly between the beam and the bumpstops. now my pinkey wont fit. so im doing some coils. once there in im going ot have it aligned, it needed it before my rut problem. i also found i have a severley worn ball joint on the passenger side drag link that connects to the pitman arm. over 1/4" slop in it. so yea thats my story behind my semi full rebuild.

 

if your ball joints and/or tie rod ends are worn, a good alignment shop will not align it.....

 

i know that..... the ball joints are fine and just the one tie rod that is worn has not been replaced. the other 3 have been replace because there the cheeper parts. the one link i need is about 75 80 bux.

 

any one else?

 

I've used the adjustible bushings and so far mine is fine. they are easy to change so do it yourself as it takes but an hour. The way I got mine out was by taking a larger (very large, almost crow bar like) screw driver and and prying up under the edge at the top of the bushing and using a copper hammer (I didn't want to dent or break anything) and hitting the the thing that the bushing sits in and it slide out little by little.

 

yea i know how to change them out..... im just worryed about them rotating once there installed and adjusted. i dunno will see.

ordered my coils tonight through Alon at mod bargins.....not bad got them for 140 shipped. :D

 

believe me, if the pinch bolt is troqued properly they will NEVER move. Hell, good luck even getting them to move when trying to adjust it and good luck if you want to ever get them out. The camber bushings in these things tend to like to freeze up and never move again once theyre installed. I had to adjust mine a year or so after i installed them and I had to pull the knuckle off and hammer it out from underneath to get it to free up so i could adjust it to where I needed it then reinstall the kuckle and torque everything back down.