I'm gonna order some Limit straps tomorrow after i get my truck on the lift to see how much travel i can allow.

Whats the general rule? I heard to get them ~1" shorter because they stretch a little.. I'll be using the same bolts as the shocks.

any brand preference? I found Beard ones for $16 each as long as 24" is enough. Some Procomps for like $45/pair..

 

I've heard the general rule is 1" for the stretching. I think you should look into the adjustable clevis mounts for fine tuning though. I think it would save you some headaches on getting the strap mounts in the perfect place.....

I used them on my limit straps and I'm not sure if I coulda got them adjusted correctly without them. BTW my straps are Beards and I havent had any complaints about them.

http://sdhqoffroad.com/limitstrapsandaccesories.aspx

 

I thought is was like 1" of stretch for every 10" of strap.

not sure though

 

We're about to go flex it out, a few inches at a time.. go a few inches, my buddy is gonna go under there and try to spin the shaft, then keep doing that until its bound up, then measure how far it is between shock mounting bolts anddddd buy a strap like 2" shorter..

I broke by t-case because the drive shaft goes past the point where the CV joint can rotate.. so thats all I'm trying to prevent.

 

mk
soo
26 5/8", the shock goes to 29.xx

soO. I'm ordering some 26" Beard straps.
$18.73 each

 

i lied
25" straps.. wooo now i can beat it a little harder

 

that sounds dirty.

 

hahaha Matt has fetishes like that!

 

what straps are you buying? that seems cheap!

 

Beard, atleast i hope their beard.

http://www.oregonmotorsports2000.com.../27/Categories

24" and shorter from poly were $25, anything 25" and longer is $29.50.



Lets take some bets on what's gonna break next, maybe the bastard joint on the rear shaft, the guy who I ordered the 9" 3rd from decided to send me one with a 1310 yoke on it.. thats smaller than a stock ranger joint...

 

i have mckenzies(sp?) straps front and rear and they hold up just fine.

 

where did you get them?

 

Those are made by Beard (RedArt). If you look at the metal ends they will be stamped RedArt. Alot of people private label Beard straps.

 

A bigger yoke for a 9" pinion should be easy to get. Does a 9" use a crush sleeve? I can never remember.

 

i don't remember, I'm probably gonna take the yoke off one of my other 3rd members and put it on.

 

it does use a crsuh sleeve.

swap it out to a 1330! or 1350!

 

btw that is a good price! i should buy some...

 

So i need to pull the 3rd member apart? orrr is the crush sleeve between the case and the yoke?

I emailed the guy and he said "I thought you said it was going in an old bronco" but he seems like he wants to help out.. argh, $500 and i can't even get a plug and play axle, now i get to pour more money into it swapping more **** out..

I think I'm going to take the "oversized ford cap" yoke off the old axle and put it on. Thats what Austin Drivetrain called it, its bigger than a 1330 but slightly smaller than a 1350..

 

$54 shipped for 2 25" straps, lets hope it works

 

no you dont have to replace the crush sleeve, just pull the yoke off and put the new one on.

 

By the book you should, but many guys don't. Too tight, or worse, too loose will effect the old crush sleeve.

 

Yeah I was gonna say that's why I asked. When you pull the yoke, that takes pressure off the crush sleeve and it wouldn't be putting the right pressure on there anymore. You'd have to replace the crush sleeve otherwise your pinion preload (I think that's the right term) won't be right and you'll blow your gears up.

Matt, why should you have to pay for him putting the axle together wrong? You needed one that works with your truck, and that's not what you got.

 

If it was wrong he shouldnt have put it in.

Also on the crush sleeve you can do it either way and either way will work fine. Personally I wouldnt want to take the pinion support off and press the bearings off just to get the crush sleeve out on the 9". Doesnt sound like that much fun for a yoke swap on a rig.

I have done it before on other axles with little issues. When someone replaces the pinion seal you dont see them replacing the crush sleeve while they are at it. I am not saying its the 100% right way to do it but its not hurting anything if you assemble it correctly.

Ive done several axles and not had an issue.

 

You should even when doing the pinion seal (on 8.8/7.5 at least). May get lucky, may not.

I hate to nitpick, but I hate when people get bad (or at least not 100% correct) info before they get in too deep. Like this, towards the bottom...

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=80467


Remember kids,

 

Yeah, I guess it's one of those YMMV things, but I guess it's best to at least KNOW, even if you choose to take a calculated risk.

Thanks for bringing up GI Joe by the way

I like the idea of that bearing spacer more than the crush sleeve. That's one of the reasons I went with a D44 over some other axles. The D44 uses shims to set bearing preload, not a crush sleeve.