I was just wondering if I will run into an small/major problems when I got to install my 3" body lift on my 2006 Ford Ranger Sport 2wd. and Information will be greatly appreciated. lol thanks

 

use air impact gun and TORCH the body bolts on the bottom till they get nice and hot then impact them out... other then that you will have no problems, sometimes the rear bumper brackets need to be bent in or out a little

 

do you have to extend the brake lines or any other lines? what about moving the fan shroud?

 

I dunno about the break lines, but it came factory with an electric fan that's mounted right to the rad

 

I could be wrong on this but shouldn't this come off fairly easy since the truck is young. I used a propane torch and it didn't really help. I ended up having to muscle them off with a pair of visegrips and a wrench by myself. Of course that might not have been the best solution since I fractured my 3rd metacarpal when my hand slipped off.

 

What your cab bolts actually thread into.....mine came loose. Not loose, but the bolt stayed in the nut......just spinning the nut. I used vise grips.....way too small of vice grips, but it worked out. I used MAPP gas to heat up the bolts...just until the rubber started to smoke, and they buzzed right out. Bed bolts....I just broke loose with a 3' breaker bar, then buzzed them out with an air impact. The core support mounts were a freakin' PITA!! Mostly because my vice grips were just too small. I was using like 4" ones. 6" is perfect. 8" is even better.

 

going out on a limb you didnt get it hot enought.. and no its the thread lock thats keeping it in... did a 2004 ranger what 2 years ago now was the worst one we ever did then did evans 2001 freaking simple... torched scotty's 01 simple... done so many now when we did grants 2004 it was like pie....

 

My '01 front cab bolts........were all covered in blue. The bolt is about 5-6" long.....threads all the way up.....threads all caked with thread lock, all the way up. Man...those were a pita, even after heating and during heating.

Taking out the seat's would help out alot with those front cab mounts. The rear cab mounts you may need to remove the rear jump seat to get access to the grommet to get to the bolt.

 

I just finished my body lift a few days ago. Those bushings are a real PITA. My friend and I spent a good 2 hours getting no where on the center cab bushings with channel locks and vise grips. We tried a propane torch, but those aren't hot enough. You need to use a blow torch with a blue flame and heat the bushings up until they're redish then hit the bolts from inside the cab with an impact. Came out like butter that way.

 

Not necessarily... Ben and I did my lift on the 2004 in early 2005, and EVERYTHING was a b*tch to get out. Even with heating the crap out of the bolts with propane torches, I still broke 2 of them, and had to cut 2 others out. Up until that point, the truck had numerous trips to Wharton, which has very acidic waters. It may be that the water had effected the bolts, and that is why they were so tight.

 

MAPP gas works best I think.....it';s much hotter than propane.

 

Wow... apparently I got lucky. All my bolts except 2 in the bed came out just fine. No torches, no WD-40, no vice grips. And the problem I had on the 2 in the bed wasn't that they were stuck, it was that the stupid torx head was slipping (ended up welding two old sockets straight to the bolts ). And that was on a 6 year old truck.

As for extending the brakes lines and stuff, from what I remember there are some clips holding all that stuff, if you lift the body up too far without taking them out of the clips you might damage them. I just undid the 1 screw holding the clip and once I was done I put back in.

Other then that, it's pretty simple. If you have the a PA Kit, it should have come with instructions. Makes it real easy.

 

alright thanks guys, yeah it is a PA Kit, it should be here by friday so I'll let you know how it goes lol