Ranger 1" Body Lift Supplies?
#30
#31
I was going to have a piece of aluminum diamond plate cut to the shape of the bottom portion of the bed that would be visible after the bumper being 1" lower. It would cover that up and look pretty sweet at the same time. Another member here did something similar, the 1" difference isn't that big of a deal though. I'm sure the brackets could be modified/fab'd as well if you'd wish to put in the time and effort if it bothers you that much.
#32
If you are referring to the front bumper I just did the bumper mod for now and it looks factory. For the rear I just left the bumper alone because the gap is not that bad. I may in the future grind the front bumper brackets alittle to move the bumper up, as for the rear I am going to us a piece of sheet metal and paint it to match my truck to fill the gap.
Chad
Edit: do a search for pics of my truck and you will see the gap is not that bad.
Chad
Edit: do a search for pics of my truck and you will see the gap is not that bad.
#34
It's more of an adjustment than a modification. You loosen the four bolts holding the bumper to the sub frame and adjust it to your liking. It's alot easier to do with two helpers, one holding each end of the bumper while one re-tightens the four bolts.
edit: I got a hair over 7/8" from raising the front bumper so with a one inch body lift there would have been an 1/8" difference, no biggie.
edit: I got a hair over 7/8" from raising the front bumper so with a one inch body lift there would have been an 1/8" difference, no biggie.
Last edited by l2en; 10-19-2006 at 07:14 PM.
#37
Originally Posted by l2en
I'm going to be embarking on a one inch body lift. I finally made up my mind and am dead set on it. I know I'm gonna need the body spacers(#?, i forgot), longer bolts. I just did the bumper mod and with a 1" body lift the bumper will have a 1 1/2" gap afterwards. Which is 1/8" more than the gaps on the sides before I lifted the bumper up. No biggie. Same deal with the rear end. I can live with it. The shifters should be fine just an inch lower, correct? I should be okay with all my hoses and lines right? I know gumby and casfz1 have done it, so it's possible. Thanks in advance for helping me with my questions.
Oh yeah, anyone wanna help? lol Maybe I'll drive out to Mich, they seem to be old pro's at bodylifting.
Oh yeah, anyone wanna help? lol Maybe I'll drive out to Mich, they seem to be old pro's at bodylifting.
#38
Originally Posted by Chucks05EDGE
What about 2 inches? What would have to be relocated then? Shroud? Ground straps? The same ebay seller listed in this thread, sells 2 inch blocks too...
anyone know what u will need?
#39
Originally Posted by MonsterGuy
ya what would u need if u wanted to do a 2" BL instead of the 3 or 1. my state sais i cna rase or lower 3 inches from stock height and got an 1" on my tires now. so if i can rase 2 " ill be legit and then after i get inspected i cna get bigger tires.
anyone know what u will need?
anyone know what u will need?
#40
I'm considering a 1 inch body lift. But i have a few questions and concerns etc .
I don't have a transfer case shift lever so there should be no problems with my truck being 4x4 and having a 1 inch body lift ? I do have a manual so what about that shifter hitting something or being lower ? any issues i need to be aware of ?
Will i be able to fit 33 x 12.5 tires without a t bar crank ? Next time i get tires which won't be for a few years i hope to step up to the 33 x 12.5 but i don't wanna t bar crank cuz once i load up my camping gear it sits pretty much level and i don't want the back lower then the front when the truck is loaded down.
What about the bumpers ? apparently they don't move up along with the body. So the front one can be adjusted with 4 bolts raising it 7/8 of an inch ? that sounds fine... what about the back ? can it be adjusted or brought up in some way ? One of the benefits i'm looking to gain here is approach and depature angles.
my last question is what about rock sliders in the future ? I was going to get some from junsen i think it is. Would it be easy to raise it 1 inch higher and or could junsen just make the mounting bracket slightly longer so i can use the existing hole?
Is there someone in the LA area who can help me install it ?
sorry for all the questions !
Originally Posted by rwenzing
If you lift your truck body even 1", you will have trouble with your transfer case shift lever hitting the bezel and the plastic stiffener inside the leather boot. I'm not saying it's impossible but you would need to make some kind of change. Install a different shift boot, cut up the stock bezel, reduce the shifter throw or do something else to keep them from interfering.
Will i be able to fit 33 x 12.5 tires without a t bar crank ? Next time i get tires which won't be for a few years i hope to step up to the 33 x 12.5 but i don't wanna t bar crank cuz once i load up my camping gear it sits pretty much level and i don't want the back lower then the front when the truck is loaded down.
What about the bumpers ? apparently they don't move up along with the body. So the front one can be adjusted with 4 bolts raising it 7/8 of an inch ? that sounds fine... what about the back ? can it be adjusted or brought up in some way ? One of the benefits i'm looking to gain here is approach and depature angles.
my last question is what about rock sliders in the future ? I was going to get some from junsen i think it is. Would it be easy to raise it 1 inch higher and or could junsen just make the mounting bracket slightly longer so i can use the existing hole?
Is there someone in the LA area who can help me install it ?
sorry for all the questions !
#41
Now ive got a question too.
If I do a body lift, do I re-use the bushings that are under the body now or can I toss them? I only want about a 2 inch lift overall, so would that mean I get a 3" kit and toss the bushings? Will there be any difference in the feel of the truck if I ditch the stock bushings? Will I feel more vibrations from the engine/drivetrain/suspension/road or will the new blocks dampen them?
If I do a body lift, do I re-use the bushings that are under the body now or can I toss them? I only want about a 2 inch lift overall, so would that mean I get a 3" kit and toss the bushings? Will there be any difference in the feel of the truck if I ditch the stock bushings? Will I feel more vibrations from the engine/drivetrain/suspension/road or will the new blocks dampen them?
#42
stockranger, i can answer a couple things for you, there is not an adjustment for the rear bumper, it could be modified to fit better but that might jepordize the safety if you get rear ended, if you want better approach and departure angles i would recommend 2 things, the t-bar crank and one of 3 things in the rear, taller blocks, add-a-leafs or shackles, I plan on installing belltech shackles on the back of mine to compensate for the t-bar crank when I load up my dirtbike an riding gear, let me know if you want mor info about the shackles, for your shifter I would imagine you can pull the boot up and trim some of the trans tunnel around the shifter, then reinstall the boot and it will look fine
#43
1" t bar crank combined with shackles or blocks in the rear to bring it up just 1 inch does sound like a good idea . That would help approach and departure and also bring up the center of the truck underneath about an 1" to help get just a little bit bigger boulder under there .
I think this combined with 1 inch body lift will give 2 inches and thats perfect and i'm pretty sure i'd be able to fit 33x12.5 with that ?.
I know i could just do the 3 inch body lift but i think it looks so funny how u can see the frame through the back wheel wells . With a 1 inch body lift no one will even know i have a body lift. I also think 3 inches is just a hair too high for my taste .
does anyone else think the 1 body lift combined with a t bar crank and shackles/blocks is a good or bad idea?
will small housing duff traction bars (if i ever find a set!) work with new shackles or blocks ?
I think this combined with 1 inch body lift will give 2 inches and thats perfect and i'm pretty sure i'd be able to fit 33x12.5 with that ?.
I know i could just do the 3 inch body lift but i think it looks so funny how u can see the frame through the back wheel wells . With a 1 inch body lift no one will even know i have a body lift. I also think 3 inches is just a hair too high for my taste .
does anyone else think the 1 body lift combined with a t bar crank and shackles/blocks is a good or bad idea?
will small housing duff traction bars (if i ever find a set!) work with new shackles or blocks ?
Last edited by stockranger; 12-10-2006 at 07:10 PM.
#44
#45
#46
Originally Posted by gearhead299
you're thinking the exact thing as i am, i think the 3in BLs look a little funny too, only difference is I am going for between 1.5 and 2 inches with the t-bar crank and shackles
i'll throw on the 1" body lift and hopefully i'll not have to trim anything under the shift boot but i realize i might have to .
i have just a few more questions.
there where measurments for the bolts to use on the body lift. can anyone tell me exactly what size fender washers to get for the bed and the cab ? will home depot have the bolts ?where else can i get the body mounts besides e bay ?
I'm goin to get all the stuff ordered within the next two weeks. I'm getting a new camera for xmas so i'll use it to take detailed pics of all the hardware and all the steps start to finish on the body lift . I'll do the same for the shakles etc . I'll make sure to get some very good pics to show the before and after all from the same angle and post them here.
I'm totaly excited ! Now , just need some extra time to hit the dirt !
#47
#48
Originally Posted by gumby
you will need these bolts to get the job done
(2) 12x1.75x110mm
(8) 12x1.75x130mm
(2) 12x1.75x150mm
these numbers are ~30mm longer than the stockers.
dont forget washers. i used 1/2" washers, they are cheaper. fender washers in the bed.
(2) 12x1.75x110mm
(8) 12x1.75x130mm
(2) 12x1.75x150mm
these numbers are ~30mm longer than the stockers.
dont forget washers. i used 1/2" washers, they are cheaper. fender washers in the bed.
Don't know about the fender washers though.