07 2.3 wont idle and a/c blows hot
07 2.3 wont idle and a/c blows hot
07 Ranger 2.3 died and will not idle. A/C started blowing hot at the same time. Truck runs fine just will not idle.
Cleaned the IAC, changed oxygen sensor, had computer tested. Still the same.
May have been a coincidence that they messed up at the same time.
Any ideas?
Btw, when this happened I was driving through the pasture in grass that was taller than the tires. I have looked underneath and can find nothing pulled loose.
Cleaned the IAC, changed oxygen sensor, had computer tested. Still the same.
May have been a coincidence that they messed up at the same time.
Any ideas?
Btw, when this happened I was driving through the pasture in grass that was taller than the tires. I have looked underneath and can find nothing pulled loose.
Last edited by grizzitup; Jul 19, 2019 at 01:32 PM.
Welcome to the forum
So you can hold it at 1,000RPM with gas pedal, but when you release gas pedal RPM drop and engine will stall?
Reads like your IAC(idle air control) Valve has failed or is unplugged
It is located next to throttle linkage on the engine, looks like a metal tube, has a 2 wire connector
Computer uses IAC Valve to control air flow into intake when throttle is closed
IAC Valve has nothing to do with AC, but..................if your AC compressor bearings are failing it could be too much of a load on the engine causing it to stall
Unplug the AC clutch wires, or pull out the AC relay in the engine fuse box
So you can hold it at 1,000RPM with gas pedal, but when you release gas pedal RPM drop and engine will stall?
Reads like your IAC(idle air control) Valve has failed or is unplugged
It is located next to throttle linkage on the engine, looks like a metal tube, has a 2 wire connector
Computer uses IAC Valve to control air flow into intake when throttle is closed
IAC Valve has nothing to do with AC, but..................if your AC compressor bearings are failing it could be too much of a load on the engine causing it to stall
Unplug the AC clutch wires, or pull out the AC relay in the engine fuse box
If the TPS is giving no signal, or the wrong one, when the throttle is closed, then it won't idle.
Use a scan tool or backprobe the sensor to check voltage
There could be a wiring issue that is causing the problem as well.
Just had a few minutes after work and I checked the plug that plugs into the Tps. Volts were 12.2, 11.7, and 7.5
On the MAF plug one was 5 volts and one was 7 volts (6 pin) also found my ground.
I am no mechanic at all so not sure if these numbers are as they should be.
On the MAF plug one was 5 volts and one was 7 volts (6 pin) also found my ground.
I am no mechanic at all so not sure if these numbers are as they should be.
Just had a few minutes after work and I checked the plug that plugs into the Tps. Volts were 12.2, 11.7, and 7.5
On the MAF plug one was 5 volts and one was 7 volts (6 pin) also found my ground.
I am no mechanic at all so not sure if these numbers are as they should be.
On the MAF plug one was 5 volts and one was 7 volts (6 pin) also found my ground.
I am no mechanic at all so not sure if these numbers are as they should be.
With a multimeter backprobed, and the other probe grounded,On one wire you should see 5v, 0V on another wire, and with the key on, the 3rd wire should read somewhere around .8-1.0 v
If I knew which wire color corresponded to which of these 3 readings, I would tell you. 5V is signal voltage, 0V is the ground leg, and the variable voltage leg (should be around .77-1.02 max with throttle closed) is the signal return. This is the voltage feedback the ECU uses to determine throttle position.
You should not be getting 12V at the TPS, and if you are, I have no idea how your truck is even running.
I connected the red probe on my multimeter to the positive terminal on my battery and checked got these voltage numbers by touching the black probe inside the 3 plugs with the key turned on.
I see I tested it the wrong way. Will retest after work tomorrow.
Sure appreciate all the help!
Btw, I tested the MAF plug with the red lead and the black on the negative post, key on.
I see I tested it the wrong way. Will retest after work tomorrow.
Sure appreciate all the help!
Btw, I tested the MAF plug with the red lead and the black on the negative post, key on.
Last edited by grizzitup; Jul 26, 2019 at 08:21 PM.
You can follow these directions to test MAF
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-1
And the TPS
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...-sensor-test-1
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-1
And the TPS
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...-sensor-test-1
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