Hello Everyone Looking for some Pointers here. I have been Battling this for awhile! I did find a Vacuum Leak, Fixed it. The Truck is still running very Rough at idle! When warmed up or cold. Idle Seems to get a bit worse once the truck is warmer. I did try a Different Mass Airflow Sensor That didnt seem to change much. I have the Torque app Along with a bluetooth OBD II Reader. I Took some Screenshots hope you guys can help me out. Someone Was Leaning towards the 02 Sensors or possibly Fuel Pressure?

 

Welcome to the forum

Did you "tell" the APP what engine its "looking at"?

You have a 4cylinder engine not a V6 or V8, so you just have ONE Bank, there is no "Bank 2"

So you should only have readings for bank 1 sensor 1, and bank 1 sensor 2

Bank 1 sensor 1 is the O2 closest to the engine, in the engine bay, its 0.32 is correct, 0.3-0.5 is a good range
Bank 1 sensor 2 is the O2 after the Cat converter, under the truck, its 0.85 is also correct, 0.7-0.8 is range


Long term values are high but look to be changing, but other than that there is no info here that would point to a specific problem

You change O2 sensors at 150k miles, they do use a chemical reaction to detect oxygen so do wear out, at 150k usually

The 1997 2.3l can run on either coil pack alone
So unplug the 3 wire connector on one coil pack and start the engine, you can drive this way as well
Then do the same with the other coil pack.
If engine runs the same, i.e. misfires, on either coil pack alone, then its not spark related, you are probably looking at a fuel delivery issue, injector or air leak

 

Hello Ron! Thank you for the Reply!

How can i diagnose that its a Fuel Delivery Problem or an Injector or AIr Leak? Also i just got done Replacing my vavle cover gasket. Along with my upper intake manifold gasket. Thanks!

 

air = RPMs, which is what the throttle plate/gas pedal does, lets in more air for higher RPMs

After engine is fully warmed up and idling, unplug the 2 wire connector on the IAC Valve, it should then close, RPMs should drop to 500 or so, engine should stumble and maybe even stall, either is GOOD, it means no vacuum leaks

If idle doesn't drop then you have a leak somewhere
Leave IAC Valve unplugged and start pulling vacuum hoses off the intake, one at a time, and plug that port with your finger, if RPMs drop then that hose or its "device" is leaking air
Start with PCV Valve hose, and if PCV Valve has not been replaced in a year or two, replace it, it is a designed Vacuum leak, but can leak too much

Injector leak test
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN all the way
Crank engine
It should NOT start, it should NOT fire at all..................fuel injectors are OFF but spark is on

The above is called "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, all fuel injection computers have this, not a Ford thing
Gas pedal down all the way with 0 RPMs tells computer the driver wants to "clear a flooded engine", so it turns off fuel injector pulses

If engine fires or starts then injector is leaking

When you release gas pedal injectors/engine will start, even while still cranking

I use this every morning to pump oil thru my high mile 4.0l engine before I let it start up

 

Hello Ron! Thanks Again for the Reply! I Really Appreciate it!


So I did exactly what you told me. I Went ahead and Unplugged the IAC Vavle Connector, RPM's Did Drop down to the high 500's Range. I Also did the Injector Test as you said. With the Gas Pedal all the way to the floor the truck did not start. Also I have like black Suit Coming out of my Exhaust, Almost looks like Oil. Thanks again Ron!

 

Have a look at the spark plug tips, pull one from each cylinder

Good write up here on what tips conditions mean: https://www.championparts.ca/Parts-M...ark-plugs.html

Black exhaust can be oil in cylinders(dirty PCV Valve), or rich running