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Old 08-07-2017
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: dorval
Posts: 1
87 2.3L no start start

hello everyone. ive searched a few threads and can't really seem to find my answer. so im sorry if this problem has already been asked about.

1987 Ranger 2.3L
cap and rotor set up

getting a good crank but no start. ive checked the timing and everything lines up (cam shaft pulley, rotor at cyl 1, and crankshaft pulley with timing cover). im getting plenty of gas in the engine, spark plugs are drenched when i pull them out. i checked for spark from the main wire leaving the coil and it looks good. not blue but looks good. i checked every spark wire individually and get spark. plugs are a year old. gap is still good. cap rotor and wires replaced last year also.

i dont think its the issue, but there is a doulbe A battery looking thing that was bracketted to the coil that seems to have split at the bottom (pictures)..[ATTACH]87 2.3L no start start-20170807_220642.jpg[/ATTACH] what the hell is that thing???
yes i know the ground is disconnected, im in the process of cleaning it up

ive hit a wall (figuratively) and i really dont know what to do anymore, can anyone help please :) thank you
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Old 08-09-2017
EaOutlaw's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 636
My guess is since you are new here and this is your first post, you purchased this truck recently not running as a project.

If I am not correct please give us some back ground on the truck, like how it ran before it no longer started.

The rusted part you found is a condenser ( it is called the radio noise suppressor )

If you had a weird electric whine in your radio when the truck ran it is because of that failed part.

I do not remember if a shorted condenser could cause weak spark or not, but you could disconnect it with no problem the truck would run fine with it disconnected.

Do not waste your time cleaning that condenser it is junk. finding a OEM replacement may be difficult or impossible. ( make sure to save the wire and connector off of the condenser ) cut it off at the base and store it for later.

All you need to do is find a aftermarket condenser with close to the correct values and it should work fine once you solder the old wire and connector to the new condenser.

I am not 100 percent sure but I would think this more modern part may work and possibly just plug in.

But do not just buy it and plug it in, more research should be done to confirm it will work.


First thing I would check is compression. ( just a standard test to make sure you are working on a healthy engine )

Then I would check fuel pressure, it should have and hold a fair amount of fuel pressure. ( I do not remember the PSI )

If this is a truck that has been sitting for a long time not running, I would smell the fuel, if it smells like varnish the fuel may have gone bad.

If your fuel pressure is good but does not hold pressure you could have a bad check valve in the fuel pump, leaking injectors or a leaking fuel pressure regulator. ( or all the above )

It is a good idea to test for injector reference pulse with a noid light just to make sure they are getting the signal to open and close.

Fuel soaked plugs could just be getting wet from dirty stuck open injectors.

Remember it is a old truck that may have many little problems causing the no start issue.

With this in mind anything you find that needs attention, like corroded battery cable ends or weak battery, blown fuses, loose electrical connectors etc should be noted and repaired as needed.

If you need any help or more direction with any of the test just let us know.

Any of the test equipment could be picked up at most local parts stores as a loaner which you pay for then return for a refund once your done.

Once you get the truck running please return and let us know what helped fix your truck.

Other people like yourself will search these forums for answers, the resolution posted here will help keep them from asking the same questions you had to.
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