I know the location of my sender and sensor, but i cannot find a parts listing or a diagram.

I know they have different overall functions, but are they the same part? all the auto stores list is as a sensor or a sender/sensor. Id like to avoid the hassle of overly explaining what I need to a parts guy, only to be given the wrong part.

does anyone have the part number for the ECT sender?

 

lol...had that same problem last week, parts store had me splicing in plugs for the sensor...giving me sensors that didnt work...etc...any how i said f it, and went to salvage yard found same year ranger w 2.5L got both for $5...

 

The Temp Sender(for gauge) used ford part number DOZZ 10884 A which is discontinued

You can use the Ford Motorcraft SW925 sender, which uses a stud connector, if your sender is a two wire model cut off connector and put eyelet on Red wire to connect to the sender stud, other wire was the Ground for two wire sender and is not needed for this one wire model so just tape it off
This will have the same OHMs as the original sender so gauge will be accurate.

And your are correct the sender and sensor are not interchangeable, they use different OHMS(resistance)
Try: Ford SU284
For the ECT Sensor

The "ECT" tag is used strictly for the SENSORS, when looking for a SENDER don't used "ECT"
Coolant temp sender is OK, not ECT sender

 

I only used ECT in the thread title to shorten it some, and why i used it again i have no idea.
I am a bit confused tho, i looked up the first part number that was discontinued and it was a single post as well, but mine is the dual blade. I understand what you were saying about the eyelet, but the sender is on the heater hose. Wouldnt i need the black ground wire, to properly ground the sender? I may have come across a 3rd party sender, i figure for the $10 they are asking ill give it a try and see how that works, and report back.

 

Sender should be drivers side toward the back of the engine just below Oil Pressure sender/switch

Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f8021b7e1.jpg

ECT sensor can be on by-pass hose(front of engine) or just below the front of intake on drivers side

 

I think this might be one of those multiple engine types issue. My sender is on the heater hose, about 3-4 inches toward the passenger pass the sensor. I have tested it by jumping it, to verify that my gauge worked.

This is what I got, I maybe wrong but jumping the sender did spike my temp gauge.

 

That looks like a better setup than past 2.3l engines, older ones always showed lower temp on gauge since sender was at the back of the engine

 

Alight so i found a replacement part at Oriellys that seems to be working. Sorry for the delay in reply but I couldnt get the truck up to a working temp to make sure it was working, due to a leaking high pressure line on the Power steering pump. got that replaced. I had to make a new T-fitting connector since the orignal one was corroded to crap and i couldnt get the sender out of it. But it seems to be working awesome. Oreilly's as a direct replacement from BWD part number wt724

 

Thanks for the update and the fix

 

Ill have to delve deeper into it, i suspect i may have been incorrect with my fix. my temp gauge is reading but very low. i may also just have a faulty thermostat stuck open.

i say this because after a 30 min drive or so i was only reading slightly above the lower limit warm line.

 

Easy test for thermostat is to feel the upper rad hose just after cold start, it will of course be cold.
And it should stay cold until engine has been running for 5 minutes or so, then as thermostat opens it will warm up quickly.

If upper hose is slowly warming up with the engine then thermostat is indeed open when it should be closed.

Above applies to engines with thermostat on Upper Hose, some do use lower hose thermostats.

With either you can also remove rad cap and then start the cold engine.
You should see NO circulation thru the rad until thermostat opens, if you do or coolant is slowly warming up, then thermostat is open.

A radiator is there to release EXTRA heat, in very cold weather it may not even be used, engine block, heads, heater and oil circulation may release enough heat in cold climates so rad barely warms up at all, totally normal.

 

Yeah that's what lead me to suspect the themostat was bad, hose was warm but not hot after a drive around the neighbor and idling for about 5min