I have a 2000 Ranger XLT 2.5L. It barely runs and the fuel pressure doesn't go above 35 psi, and drops to zero immediately after shut off. I have replaced the fuel pump assembly twice as well as the filter. Have done the WOT test for leaking injectors, and have traced all fuel lines for bad spots. What else could I be missing? I'm at my wits end.
Thanks in advance!

 

Maybe bad fuel pressure regulator...

 

Welcome to the forum

1998-2001 2.5l can be odd ball systems

Does your fuel filter have 3 hoses connected?
If so then Fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel pump assembly, in the gas tank

If fuel filter just has 2 hoses connected then there IS a Fuel Pressure Regulator on the engine, fuel line connects to it, looks like a little can
Ford only used that for a few years because of issues with it
They switched to the 3 line filter and FPR in the gas tank

 

I am having a similar problem with a '91 2.3. It would not hold fuel pressure so I replaced the FPR and the pump. It almost starts now. If I clamp the fuel return line it does run until I release it. Is the new FPR bad out of the box? My Harbor Fright fuel injection pressure gauge has developed a leak of it's own so I have not been able to test again with that.

 

Yes, from that description the new FPR is bad, it happens

 

That thing is a bear to take out. I ended up making a tool out of a long allen wrench so that I could undo the screws from the top side. I will order up a replacement and see if it works any better. Thanks!

 

Take off the return line, and put a towel down under it, cycle key on, NO fuel should come out
1997 and earlier FPRs are rated at 43psi with no vacuum(engine off)

Each time you cycle key on and off you should get +10psi, so should hold pressure without leaking for 3 key on and offs at least

 

It dumps fuel the second I hit the key. Sounds like conclusive proof of a bad FPR? I ordered a different brand so we will see. Has any one really found an easy way to get to these to remove them?

 

Yes, FPR is bad

Never did one myself on a 2.3l, but did read a long allen/hex can get in there, or remove upper intake

 

New Fuel pressure regulator is installed and it still won't run. I am back to where it will start and run for a second or two and then die. If I keep the starter cranking it will almost start, it fires but just won't catch. I recall reading something about the fuel pump not switching on till the engine is at better than 300 RPM or there abouts. What measures RPM? Is it the crankshaft position sensor, and if so where is it?

 

So does the pressure hold now?
With hose off the new FPR no gas comes out?

Its at 400rpms when computer starts fuel pump full time, cranking speed is 200rpms
Signal for RPMs is from the Spark module(ICM) in 1994 and earlier 2.3ls
And there would be no spark if it wasn't working

You can cycle key on and off 3 or 4 times, that should get pressure up to 43psi, FPR sets that pressure

 

There is an open valve on the fuel raid for you to connect your pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure during cranking or starting. Just a thought.

 

I have to fix my Harbor Fright fuel pressure gauge and make some checks. I have not yet checked to see if I am getting fuel out of the return line. Once I get some testing results I will be back.

 

The gauge still leaks but here is the report. It goes up to 40 when I turn the key. Then drops to zero. This may be the gauge leaking. When I try to start it it comes up to just under 30 psi. It did briefly start and held around 30 psi for about 15 seconds then it started dropping to 20 psi when it stalled. I am still trying to fix the gauge but I want the gas to evaporate a bit before I start working on it again.

 

Reads like fuel pump is weak if it can't maintain pressure, the fuel pump is capable of 80+ psi, but limited by fuel pressure regulator, and its working because pressure goes up and stays at max. 40psi
But when fuel is needed, engine running, the pump can't maintain the 30-40psi needed

 

When I began this adventure I initially replaced the FPR as it was showing about what I am seeing now pressure wise. So I next replaced the fuel pump and filter. When I pulled the old pump I could blow a small amount of air past the check valve. I will pull the return line and see if it is holding up to its release pressure. I am about an hour a way from the closest HF to buy a new gauge if I can't fix this one. It appears to be leaking where the schrader vavle connection is attached to the hose. Make a nice vaporized stream of gas. What could go wrong?

 

An update: After working on the gauge I have the leak greatly reduced. When I turn the key it goes right up to a little over 40 psi. The leak means it falls slowly. So when I went to crank it over this time it started. At first the fuel pressure would hold at just above 30 then begin to drop until it stalled just under 20 psi. I got the revs up after a start and it held pressure at just above 30 psi. After running for a bot it would drop to a high idle of about 1200 RPM and continue running, still holding about 30psi. I had to turn int off due to the continued gas leak. I am as confused as ever. The EGR electrical connector was off when it was running.

 

Test battery voltage
Key off 12.8v to 12.3v is acceptable
12.8v is a new battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v or lower is a drained or failed battery

Start engine
Battery should now show 14.2-14.8volts, if under 13.5volts then alternator is not working
After 5 minutes or running battery voltage should be 13.5-13.9volts, voltage regulator is working

Inertia switch in cab should show SAME engine running Volts, 14v + just after startup, can't test with just key on, has to be running voltage

If there are some corroded connections fuel pump may only be getting 6-8volts engine running so can't keep up

 

Battery voltage was a little low about 12.1 before I started it. It came up to 14.6 running and then after running a bit the battery measured 12.6 with the engine not running. I think the battery was a bit low due to so much cranking and priming of the fuel system. My non automotive neighbor thinks that I may have some bad gas. He could be right as I just use this truck around my place and it rarely gets any significant miles on it. I may try draining the gas, putting some new gas in it and then seeing what I have. IT currently does start, but it is hard to start and has to be revved to about 2500 RPM to keep it running at first.

 

You have to test batteries after they have been sitting for at least 6 hours to get a true voltage

If engine isn't idling at approx.1,000rpms after COLD start up then computer is not applying the Choke
Replace ECT sensor, its the 5volt sensor computer uses to "see" coolant temp on startup, i.e. cold start run Choke, or warm start no choke
Choke means rich fuel mix and high idle, just like carb engines did
If computer thinks engine is already warm(bad ECT sensor) then it would be hard to start cold and wouldn't stay running until it warmed up

Engines also have a 12volt temp SENDER, used for the dash board temp gauge, same senders used for 100 years on water cooled engines, these look similar but are NOT the same

 

I am finding this part: Coolant Temperature Vacuum Control Switch Is this what I need? The vacuum part has me guessing

 

No, that would be for an older model with distributor, no computer

1991 Ranger 2.3l ECT sensor

It will have TWO wire connector, NOT 1 wire, that's the 12 volt sender

 

I thought it might be helpful to come back here and finish off the issue for others to see in the future. After replacing the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and a couple of temperature senders, and removing the gas I could get to siphon out and then adding fresh gas... the problem was... bad gas.

It appears that some one had put water in my gas tank. I removed the bed and then accessed the fuel through the filler neck attachment location. I used an old submersible electric fuel pump to remove all of the gas in the tank. After adding fresh gas I had almost 12 gallons in the tank. Because I was dangling the pump in the tank when I started I was pulling out what seemed to be pretty fresh gas. It did not smell bad or look bad. When I lowered the pump to the bottom of the tank it started producing some darker fluid that did not smell like gas or shellac. I believe it was water. I also noticed a sort of crusty layer on the metal parts of the new pump. I live in the Arizona desert and it had not rained here for several months...

After draining the tank thoroughly, I added some new gas. It would start and run, but it took a lot of cranking and it idled rough and didn't want to accept throttle unless it was moved very slowly. I felt at this point the injectors must have been mucked up, and decided to try some cleaner before buying new injectors. I added Sea Foam and the more I ran it the better it ran. I have since filled the tank and added more sea foam and it continues to run better and now starts easily.

I would like to thank everyone for the help and encouragement. My little red truck is now back in action, so I can at least try to get it through emissions testing. I do believe that the water is what killed the original fuel pump.