Any of it?

It has sensors and vacuum pipes in it, i doubt it would stop it running entirely, but it won't run well without it.

yeah It does same thing even when I put it on starts up and dies instantly

I am getting a little Backfire of the intake when I seem to give a a little gas with the gas pedal

it really really seems like it's a timing issue but all marks are lined up perfectly

from what I am reading on the Internet even if they weren't perfectly lined up the computer would make up for it is that right could it be the PCM I replaced it it wasn't New but both of them are doing the same exact thing and now my testers showing no codes says everything's normal yeah right

more or less what I am thinking is a computers not synchronizing everything properly

not sure what else to think I'm going to Pull the fuel rail off tomorrow and see if there's a problem before it's getting to the injectors

OK this thread has gone on long enough I am sure you have been ready to drive your truck, so we need to get serious about basic diagnostics.

What we have learned so far correct me if I am wrong.

You have spark, compression, fuel pressure, Known good fuel in the tank.

You kind of waffled about injector reference pulse and told us you are using a test light to check for injector reference pulse.

You should be using a Noid light not a test light to test for injector reference pulse.

If your messing around with a test light you could damage the injector connector and not get a good indication of what is really going on with the injector reference pulse.

With the truck running on secondary fuel and a noid light connected to a injector harness the noid light should flash the entire time the truck is running.

Let us know if it does. Again use a noid light not a test light.

ok not sure what a noid light is but ill google it and get one tks

It is really really difficult to help someone with their vehicle through a forum because we are not there witnessesing the test and results from these test.

It was after I carefully read each post again that I discovered you said you were using a test light and not a noid light, if you ever get help from me or anyone else and your not sure of what we are talking about please ask I am always willing to explain myself to the best of my ability.

Once you get the noid light kit and you confirm the injector reference signal can get to each injector reliably with no intermittent connections from loose stretched or other wise damaged connections we can help further.

So far the deeper we get into this truck the less sense this problem is making.

Another thing that has been bugging me that has yet to be addressed is the secondary add on ground wire for the fuel pump circuit.

I know you claimed to have repaired this issue, yet it makes me wonder what other monkey business has been done to this poor truck.

Make sure to inspect the entire harness to the best of your ability for any further signs of tampered with wiring, even if you get this truck running.

I have also been wondering what collateral damage may have happened when the harmonic balancer ate your crankshaft sensor and burnt the middle wire.

If I had a wiring diagram for your truck and a service manual I would trace each wire down and see what could have been damaged with this direct short to ground.

I have a feeling the PCM ( computer ) may have sustained damage and one or more of the driver circuits may be toast which is why I am insisting you use a noid light to confirm injector reference pulse for each cylinder both while cranking and when running on secondary fuel ( starting fluid )

If you have pulse to each injector I will be at a dead end going by the information you provided you will have everything you need to run a engine fuel air spark and compression.

At this point I would have no other choice but to have you run a real compression test, and confirm the timing belt installation and confirm the crankshaft timing gear key way has no damage

I have seen a few of these engine get damage to the key way which caused the engine to be out of time yet your symptoms do not support such a theory.

Anyways it would suck but I hope you find no pulse to the injectors and a bad PCM because reallly at this point that is the only thing that would make sense on this entire thread.

The term burnt might have been used incorrectly here, he did mention it was the wheel rubbing on the wire that caused it to wear out/through.

I took it as the sensor was ground up by the harmonic balancer that fried the middle wire.

I am pretty sure he did not write that the wire was contacted by harmonic balancer.

But I will re read that part, thanks.

Ahh, the finer parts of text communication, i could be completely wrong too, without going back to look.

I re quoted this because there was doubt about what was posted on how the crank sensor was damaged or if the wire only was damaged.

By the way Ronb I would replace the harmonic balancer if it is at all damaged

One other thing I need to mention when I bought this new crank sensor it has two plugs one has four wires the other one has just one wire the one that had one wire the notch on the plug did not line up so I had to trim the plastic notch off in order for me to plug them together
Does anyone know what that single wire does?

The fact you had to cut the plug up means it's probably the wrong sensor. It would have fit if it was the right one.

I am starting to think that the harmonic balancer has started to seperate from the rubber isolation ring.

I agree that if you had to modify the sensor to work with your harness that you may have purchased a incorrect part.

On sensitive rarely replaced parts like this I tend to buy only OEM parts to insure the correct part is being used and maximize longevity.

I do have my doubts that the sensor plug incompatibility is the culprit for not running without secondary fuel.

I am leaning toward the timing belt being installed incorrectly due to a slightly slipped harmonic balancer which would explain why you thought the timing belt was installed wrong when you purchased the truck, it would also explain why it ate the sensor and it could explain the engine not running without secondary fuel.

If I am not mistaken starter fluid may have a much higher octane rating but I will research this to know for sure.

Since we know and agree you should replace the harmonic balancer which requires the timing belt to get removed once again, I would purchase the new balancer and while I was waiting on it I would perform the diagnostics, compression test and injector reference pulse.

Make sure to record the compression test numbers.

Once your new harmonic balancer comes in compare it to the original balancer once you get the old balancer removed to see if the timing marks are in the same position in relationship to the crankshaft keyway.

You could also easily double check this by putting number one cylinder at top dead center of the compression stroke and make a mark of where the old balancer lands then install the new balancer to see if the mark on the balancer is at a different position.

At this point I am almost positive you will not find a problem with the injector reference pulse, but having these tools will be helpful in confirming you have what you need at all the injectors but the timing of these pulses may be out of time along with the spark and compression stroke.

I did not find the octane rating for starter fluid yet common sense would indicate that the flash point should be much lower which is why it is used to help start engines in extreme cold weather.

So I am really thinking we are on to something. Running the compression test will also help with confirming this, a finger placed over the spark plug hole is a great way to get an idea that there is no obvious problems yet your problem has been anything but obvious.

BTW to know what that one wire does for sure you would need a manual and wiring diagram, I suspect it may just be a ground but that is just a guess.

Btw no need to give up when your so close.

noid lights are used with most any electronic fuel injection system to aid in diagnostics.

A common problem that happens with fuel injected vehicles the injector harness connectors get hard and brittle they also get removed roughly causing the clips to break and gaskets fall out of them leaving them prone to corrosion and poor connection to the injector.

None of this may be your problem now but these little noid lights can be very helpful with diagnostics on your truck or other vehicles.

I just hope you made sure to buy the noid light set that includes the Ford Noid light in the kit.

yeah I think it's a ground too just guessing but Obviously i got more work to do here so I will update when I get to compression testing and then noid light and balancer hub

The noid light is a 11 Piece GM and Ford be here Monday

but there is one thing I am confused about watching the Internet videos they are testing the plug not the actual injector so how do you know if the injectors bad if the plug is working maybe the injector is not ??