whats the best intake
#26
Originally Posted by vindex1963
He is me and there was no itch. That's funny. You're the first to say that. Maybe using the epoxy paint stopped the itch......oh no now I'm itching all over.
Edit: BTW, I have like 6' of polished stainless steel tubing I would be willing to cut and sell... I have to buy it in 10' sections and my cost is 187 bucks!
#28
I found two specific intakes that I had questions about and I posted the links for them, wanted to get people's opinions on them, they're on Ebay. One was custom made too it wasn't a major brand. If you feel like answering then I can guess you can look back through the post and find them, if anyone will I'd GREATLY appreciate the assistance...
#29
#30
i don't know if this too late but if your gonna tell me my stock intake is better than my cai then you are not the sharpest tool in the shed. I have a 4.0 L but the principle is the same. The stock air box is about 3/5 the size as the cai box with 3 holes the size of a half dollar while my cai box has got massive holes. just that gets a greater volume in my engine.
#31
Originally Posted by ReconRanger03
. just that gets a greater volume in my engine.
that's pulling the air!!!
THE ONLY way to get more air into the engine is to go to larger displacement, change the cam profile, or go to forced induction!! Again, the OEM filter and intake ARE NOT THE LIMITING FACTORS FOR THE AMOUNT OF AIR ENTERING THE ENGINE!
GEEEZZZ!!!!!
Let me try this to get the concept over:
The MAX air a stock 4.0L engine will pull is 450CFM
The OEM intake and filter will flow 600CFM
The whizbang state of the art double CAI will flow 10,000CFM
Now, how much air will the 4.0L engine pull with the whizbang CAI?
Last edited by Takeda; 10-16-2007 at 04:32 PM.
#33
Originally Posted by fuze
Your source for that number is...?
I was using those numbers, so our least fortunate members could understand and not throw their money away on the aftermarket intakes and air filters.
ALL vehicle manufacturers typically over design the intake systems to compensate the decreased air flow when the air filter gets dirty, but not too large to cause the air velocity to be low.
#34
Originally Posted by Takeda
I was using those numbers, so our least fortunate members could understand and not throw their money away on the aftermarket intakes and air filters.
ALL vehicle manufacturers typically over design the intake systems to compensate the decreased air flow when the air filter gets dirty, but not too large to cause the air velocity to be low.
ALL vehicle manufacturers typically over design the intake systems to compensate the decreased air flow when the air filter gets dirty, but not too large to cause the air velocity to be low.
#35
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Something that hasn't been mentioned, yet is one of the most important factors.. Air velocity/turbulence.
I haven't seen and ' heat ' diferences between air charges in the OEM setup and a ' Cold Air Intake ' myself. Such a point is rather mute seeing as both entities are drawing air in from the same physical location. Atomization of the air/fuel mixture is where the ' power ' comes from. Efficiency in burn ( so to say ).
So lets hear how bad these aftermarket intakes are in regards to air dispursement compared to an OEM intake that doesn't bare smooth walls..
I haven't seen and ' heat ' diferences between air charges in the OEM setup and a ' Cold Air Intake ' myself. Such a point is rather mute seeing as both entities are drawing air in from the same physical location. Atomization of the air/fuel mixture is where the ' power ' comes from. Efficiency in burn ( so to say ).
So lets hear how bad these aftermarket intakes are in regards to air dispursement compared to an OEM intake that doesn't bare smooth walls..
#36
#38
This is the one and only time this thread is going to get vacuumed. Either talk about intakes nicely or find another website to crap all over. It doesn't matter who is right, who is wrong, or who thinks they know what they are talking about. Keep it civil and lose the name calling please.
I'm sure some useful post had got removed because someone chose to mix the insults in with the information. Try it again without the insults and vulgarity and I'm sure this will be a much more useful thread.
#39
Originally Posted by FireRanger
This is the one and only time this thread is going to get vacuumed. Either talk about intakes nicely or find another website to crap all over. It doesn't matter who is right, who is wrong, or who thinks they know what they are talking about. Keep it civil and lose the name calling please.
I'm sure some useful post had got removed because someone chose to mix the insults in with the information. Try it again without the insults and vulgarity and I'm sure this will be a much more useful thread.
Ok, here we go again........check out this URL for truly independent dyno testing that proves that the neither the OEM paper filter, or the airbox silencer are restrictive, and limit performance:
http://www.jackphelps.com/ranger/dyno1.htm
#40
well aparently I used some vulgarity, which I didn't, I just took it slow so people could follow along. Now back to my straw example this time I have to do it a little faster so it doesn't get removed this time(sorry to those who can't keep up). I as a human being can only suck in so much air into my lungs, now it is a lot harder to suck air through a coffee stirring straw than it is to suck air through a regular straw from any fast food place. It does not matter how much I can suck it matters how hard it is for me so suck air in. Now i checked that dyno thing that takeda posted and all that guy did was drop in an air filter and cut open his air snorkel, whatever that is. I believe he might be talking about his air BOX, but i usually don't take advice from people that name things improperly(no offense to anybody just IMO, don't remove my post). I don't need a dyno to tell me my engine runs more efficiently, i notice it everytime I go to the gas pump. Before my volant, 17-18 mpg. With it, 19.5-20. I don't care if anybody thinks I'm an idiot cause i guess I think a cai puts air in my engine(which i most certainly don't) cause I have a cai and love it. Also I couldn't find anywhere the cfm numbers proposed earlier but IF the engine only pulls 450 cfm why would car manufacturers waste money on a larger airbox that will flow 600 cfm? It doesn't add up and and I happen to have a decent amount of common sense to know that manufacturers don't want to waste money, why do you think there's an aftermarket anyway? When I see those numbers from a legit source i'll shut up. See, no vulgarity was used and no personal attacks that weren't fact were used. No need to delete : )
#41
Originally Posted by ReconRanger03
Also I couldn't find anywhere the cfm numbers proposed earlier but IF the engine only pulls 450 cfm why would car manufacturers waste money on a larger airbox that will flow 600 cfm? It doesn't add up and and I happen to have a decent amount of common sense to know that manufacturers don't want to waste money
ALL vehicle manufacturers typically over design the intake systems to compensate the decreased air flow when the air filter gets dirty, but not too large to cause the air velocity to be low.
The materials cost for the larger airbox is negligible, but efficiency is extremely important due to CAFE standards. Because of this, vehicle
manufacturers do not design restrictive intake systems.
#42
Originally Posted by ReconRanger03
I as a human being can only suck in so much air into my lungs, now it is a lot harder to suck air through a coffee stirring straw than it is to suck air through a regular straw from any fast food place. It does not matter how much I can suck it matters how hard it is for me so suck air in.)
holds true for the 4.0L, which pulls much less air than the OEM or Whizbang
intakes will flow.
#43
Originally Posted by Takeda
We can use your straw example, but instead of using a coffee stirring straw, and a regular straw, we are going to use the OEM intake and filter (600CFM) and the Whizbang intake and filter (10,000CFM). Ok, I want you to suck on each one of them, and tell me if you can tell a difference. This same scenario
holds true for the 4.0L, which pulls much less air than the OEM or Whizbang
intakes will flow.
holds true for the 4.0L, which pulls much less air than the OEM or Whizbang
intakes will flow.
First show us your proof that 450cfm can flow without restriction using the stock intake. So far I've only seen assumptions...
#44
Originally Posted by fuze
First show us your proof that 450cfm can flow without restriction using the stock intake. So far I've only seen assumptions...
The proof is measuring for vacuum in the intake at high RPM, and WOT, which
I've done, and there was no vacuum. I have explained this technique many times!
#45
Originally Posted by Takeda
T
I've done, and there was no vacuum. I have explained this technique many times!
I've done, and there was no vacuum. I have explained this technique many times!
#46
#47
Originally Posted by Takeda
The proof is measuring for vacuum in the intake at high RPM, and WOT, which
I've done, and there was no vacuum. I have explained this technique many times!
I've done, and there was no vacuum. I have explained this technique many times!
#48
If stock air intakes are "NOT" restrictive, then why are there baffles/silencers to slow/quiet the intake. From Takeda's, link they seem negligable but still debatable IMO because I see no benefit of doing the airbox mod or installing a CAI if your still running a stock exhaust. Just assume Magnaflow for maximum airflow. -Mike-
#49
Originally Posted by vindex1963
Doesn't engine vacuum drop off at WOT always, I remember doing that years ago and when you hit the gas the vac drops to nothing. Intake or not it drops. That's how vacuum secondaries on a 4 barrel operate so dropping is normal.
Last edited by Takeda; 10-18-2007 at 04:34 AM.