2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

1990 2.9 hard start after head gaskets

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Old Feb 23, 2025
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1990 2.9 hard start after head gaskets

Ok guys I’m about ready to throw in the towel here. I have a 1990 ranger 2.9 that I got that has been sitting in a garage for 24 years with 69,000 original miles. Paperwork to prove. The previous owner passed and I got this from his son who clammed his Dad said the head gaskets need replaced. He was right the inside of the motor was BAD with a lot of funk. So I bought a parts cleaner after disassembly and cleaned all top end parts. Since I put it back together with the help of this forum I have replaced the following- coil, plugs and wires, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor, head gaskets, top end gaskets. I can’t quite figure out why I have to get it give it throttle to start and it seems like it’s only running a few cylinders. It will not idle of course. Am I missing something here? I realize I will have to time it but it should be good enough to get it started. Any ideas would be helpful.

 
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Old Feb 24, 2025
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this is off the top of my head. i'd do a compression test. also if you sprayed starter fluid in the TB to see if it starts easier and will run smoothly for a moment. if it does i'd be thinking injectors. the compression test will ensure valves are all in good shape.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025
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You didn't mention if you checked for OBD codes. Anything there that suggests a sensor with a problem? Do you have a spout jumper? Without that the IAC won't regulate how much air is getting into the intake around the throttle body when idling. (Ooops, I'm confusing the spout with the plug for the IAC.) Also check that your IAC has it's plug. Don't know how you could test that system if it won't idle. You can also check that you have voltage (5v) on the reference wire for the TPS and the resistance changes as expected when it's changed from the butterfly closed to butterfly open positions.
 

Last edited by 89longbed; Feb 25, 2025 at 12:51 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2025
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Well after more tinkering I found that antifreeze is still getting in the oil. I also did a compression check and the back cylinders on each side 3 and 6 are at 0psi and the others are around 110psi. Maybe stuck valves? I thought these heads if they crack are in the center cylinders? This truck did sit for a long time but the heads and valves looked ok considering.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025
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could be the head gaskets. theres 2 kinds 1 for trucks and then the other for cars with the motor sideways.
hard to say if the heads look good?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025
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This is the gasket set I used. I also used new head bolts as well
This is the gasket set I used. I also used new head bolts as well. Is it possible for the antifreeze to get into the block from the water pump. I’ve not taken that apart yet but it does look to have been replaced before. I’m just wondering if I have 2 problems like stuck valves and leaking water pump?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025
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that looks right? hard to say why h20 in the oil. but it can be the headgaskets thers a few ways thay will fit. R n L and upside down. ...compression is a different thing. why its low. i dont thing gaskets can do that?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2025
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try doing a leakdown test on 3 and 6 cyl. or pull the valve covers to check if valves look to stuck open? how long has to motor ran after rebuilt ? hrs
 
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Old Mar 7, 2025
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Well took heads off again and back 2 lifters were stuck from sitting. I got them free with lots of oil and bought new heads in case the others were cracked (can’t find the crack) . I’ll give an update once I put it back together
 
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Old Mar 10, 2025
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Ok it’s alive again! But… the brake pedal is very hard and I pushed it a couple times as I was moving it around driveway and then it started running like crap. Looks like it’s getting a new brake booster, master cylinder and brake lines while I’m at it. This thing is going to nickle and dime me till I get it on the road.
 
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