Hello all, I am removing the water pump on the Ranger 3.0. I have to loosen the power steering pump bracket which also supports the a/c compressor. I already have the compressor bolts out. I seem not to be able to locate all the bolts on the bracket. Can anyone describe the locations ? I have the radiator out; the fan and clutch off; most of the bolts out of the water pump; and the belt off. I cant get to one until I can move the bracket. You tube videos dont show this step very well. Thanks in advance for any assistance. rp

 

I believe there are 2 more studs you need to get behind the AC compressor.
One holds a fuel bracket on and the other holds a wire loom together.
To find the fuel bracket stud, look directly behind the AC compressor and follow the fuel line.
For the second stud, you can either see it through the wheel well or if you are capable of crawling under the truck you can see it there. This one is also behind the AC compressor but lower than the fuel line bracket stud.

 

Thank you, Theo. I have removed the one at the rear which holds the fuel line. I'll have to locate the 2nd one. rp

 

Here is a picture from when I did the job. In this picture I have already taken the tab holding the wire loom off the stud. You can see its location from the wheel well is right next to a rubber hose.

 

Theo, I located the one holding the wire loom. In Ford fashion, that nut (13mm) comes off and there is another 13mm on the stud that has to come loose. Apparently the compressor didnt need to be loosened; just the power steering pump bracket.
Now if I can move it far enough I can get the last W P bolt out. (Always nice working with an E-TN guy.). rp.....ps, the picture is appreciated.

 

I'm still working on removal of the last W P bolt. I'm leery of moving the compressor too far and compromising the lines. I may have to resort to a crow foot adapter to get this one. I think it may be prudent to replace the radiator hoses while I'm in it.

 

Yesterday I was able to use a ratchet strap placed under the P/S pump and bracket to lift the bracket enough to get the offending WP bolt out. I tried a crow foot wrench but had to resort to a 13mm offset box wrench.
Then I found I had missed the one under the Alternator. Of course, in Ford fashion they also use this one as a brace for the A/C line. So the fight still rages. rp

 

Hey Richard,

Just take some cutters and cut that dumb bracket holding the AC line. It's not needed. Then, you can take that last stud out without things spinning. Classic ford brackets on nuts on studs mental engineering.

As for the power steering bracket, you can pull that whole thing away and lay it on the frame.

As for the AC compressor, I took a ratchet strap and hung it by the main line from my hood. It gets it out of the way enough to see everything.

Here's a pic of my setup with the wp off.

 

Theo; A brief update: I was able to get the pump installed. I used permatex #2 on the gasket to the W P, then thread to tie it on. The thread helps hold the gasket in place. It took a bit of lifting and positioning to get the bracket bolts started.
I'm ready to complete the bracket install; also the fan; radiator; get it refilled. I did apply a bit of grease to the bolts being replaced. They might never come out again---old habits. I found a 32 tooth solution for the excess length bolts. I did replace a couple of original hose clamps. Thank you. Your pictures are most valuable. RP

 

The finish line : This afternoon I was able to complete the reassembly. I have to tighten the lower hose clamp so there is as yet no coolant in it.
I will offer that this is not a 2 hr job for most of us. It might be if you are familiar with Rangers or do a lot of mechanic work and have the tools.
However, it is doable if you understand the process and take a succession of small victories. Pay attention closely to where the bolts go as you remove them.
Watch several videos and take notes on procedure if you need. RP

 

The job took me a week of straight working. I also did the crank seal and timing gasket. Us amateurs can do it. Good job Richard

 

Theo, Thank you for the remarks. Yes, mechanical inclined amateurs can do this job. With the age and mileage of this one another tact would be : replace all the existing hoses / clamps. Go on into the timing cover and install a timing chain/ gears if needed. And, any others that fall into the ''We're already here'' category. I do hope this discussion will aid some other soul. RP

 

I need to post a PS : During the filling with water a split place was found in the upper half of the lower hose. My observation is: If you do this job, go ahead and replace the lower hose. A note about the hose : It appears to be made intentionally a little long. I'm going to trim about a half inch from it on the lower end. RP

 

Update----the last one, i hope. I did trim about a half inch off the lower hose. However, I believe the cause of the kink I experienced was because the upper connection of the hose was twisted a bit.
Removing the upper portion and repositioning seems to have cured the kink. The reassembly is complete.