I just inherited my Dad's 1998 Ford Ranger with only 105k on it. It is in good shape just not sure how many miles I can expect to get out of the Rangers if regular maintenance is done. It has the 3.0L 2wd. He took really good care of it and was not abused so thought it might be a keeper.

 

1998 is first year of 3rd generation Rangers, 1998 to 2012
Not much of a change from 2nd generation, 1993 to 1997

1998 saw 60psi fuel pressure with no return line in Rangers
1997 and earlier used 30psi with fuel return

3.0l Vulcan was a good engine, used by Ford from 1986 to 2008, in cars and Rangers(1991-2008).
3.0l is a high-RPM engine, makes best power at 3,300RPM, most engines get best power at 2,500RPM, so the Vulcan is often called "3.slow" engine, lol.
But if you drive it as designed, above 3,000RPM it will have enough power

Generally 400k is not unusual for chassis, ball joints and front hubs do wear out, no lube points any more
Engine and trans depends on use and maintenance, but 300k would be expected
Water pumps and the odd starter motor issue will occur

If automatic trans a 2nd trans cooler will be the best $60 you will ever spend on maintenance

 

Hey Ron you have been a great help. It looks like I may be keeping this truck according to your info. Should I ever have to worry about repacking the front wheel bearings. Just trying to do all the maintenance because I inherited this truck and don't know the maintenance that has been done. Thanks again this has really helped me out.

 

I have a 99 and I'm pretty sure that it still has the original starter.
It crapped out the other day and I decided to rebuild it.

All that was wrong is that it needed brushes.

Greg, you may want to remove the starter and inspect the brushes so (like me), it just won't start one morning on your way to work.

Here's the kit I got, still waiting on it though.

 

Jeff, Good info to know. How many miles are on your 99. Mine only has 105k but may as well buy this starter kit to have on hand. Bound to go out at some point. I am not real good at electrical but work on my own vehicles a lot. So is it real easy to rebuild.

 

I just removed my upper control arm on my 1998 ranger 3.0L 2wd. Very confused, because on the x2 bolts that hold the upper control arm to the frame everything I have seen and read says to make sure and put the camber plates back in the same direction they came out. However, the drivers side the tapered part of the plates are facing up and the passenger's side are facing down. Before I started this project the alignment seemed to be fine. I just had torn boots on my upper control arms and just decided to replace them because of inspection. So the big question is, should I put them back in the same direction. I guess I thought they would either both be facing up or down. So has anyone had this problem and what should I do.

 

Hey guys not to steal anyone's post spot .in new to this and am probably doing it all wrong.so sorry in advance! I own a splash and it is having issues....it started out with what sounded like some kind of hydraulic component making this weird whining type of sound when I would shift to park or drive. Only once in a while did I hear it. Then while I was driving down the road at 30 mph, its gears just stopped taking me forward. The tranny was not hot, fluid levels checked out, no slipping going on. I drove it home in the only gear left- reverse-. I changed the filter,gasket,fluids, started her back up and no change. The one fix it needed when I bought it two months prior was the OD button. It was and still is missing from the shifter. There are just two wires at the end. I'm at a loss. I need some expert opinions and advice. My thoughts were steering towards shift solenoid? How wrong am I? HELP!!!

 

Not shift solenoids, for sure.

Check trans fluid level with engine OFF, should be over the Full Line
Then check with engine on, should be at or just below the Full Line
The level changing means the transmission pump is working.

Need to know what year engine size and transmission for other tests?

 

Its a tranny from a 1995 ford ranger 3.0 liter. I checked the fluid levels like you suggested and they altered when off/on so my pump is working .....if it was not working wouldn't my tranny be getting hot? Its really perplexing me. I am not afraid to get under this truck. I will do what I have to.just tell me please.I live off-grid in the Mojave desert 30 miles from any people. I need to get my truck running asap!

 

Here's a pretty good video and some photos of my old brushes.
The kit came with a new Bendix gear that I used, but I could have re-used the old one as you can see in the photo.
On my truck, the brushes wore down quickly because of oil contamination. There is a funnel to keep oil from running all over the starter when the filter is removed, that was missing on my truck.
I had to get one from the dealer.

The starter is easily removed for inspection, the bolts are just 13mm including the live battery cable bolt to the solenoid.

EDIT:
Don't use sand paper or emery cloth on the Bendix Gear shaft and especially on the commutator.
The grit from the paper gets embedded into the soft copper on the armature and wears the brushes down prematurely.

 

Hey Ron,
Just bought 2 new upper control arms with ball joints for my 98 ranger with 3.0L 2wd. Got the Moog performers. Everything I have read about the x2 bolts that hold the control arms to the knuckle is to make sure and mark the camber bolts/plates so you can put them in the same way they came out. The only problem is each side is the opposite. The angled taper of the plates are facing up on the drivers side and facing down on the passenger side. The truck drove fine before I decided to replace the ball joints and the alignment seemed fine. Just wanted to know if this is a common problem in 98 rangers or if this is normal.