1998 XL 3.0 Cylinder Head Replacement Questions
1998 XL 3.0 Cylinder Head Replacement Questions
Thanks in advance for the help. Really appreciate this place.
A trusted local shop diagnosed a recent cylinder misfire as a likely crack between the valves in the cylinder head. There is only one cylinder currently throwing a code. I previously rebuilt the top end of the engine about 4 years ago, when I'd purchased it with a blown head gasket. At that time, I had the original heads cleaned and surfaced by a local shop. I was warned that the valves needed some work, which he did to the best of his ability at that time.
My questions:
A trusted local shop diagnosed a recent cylinder misfire as a likely crack between the valves in the cylinder head. There is only one cylinder currently throwing a code. I previously rebuilt the top end of the engine about 4 years ago, when I'd purchased it with a blown head gasket. At that time, I had the original heads cleaned and surfaced by a local shop. I was warned that the valves needed some work, which he did to the best of his ability at that time.
My questions:
1. Can I replace only one cylinder head? I believe the other one is still fine. That said, both were resurfaced during the previous rebuild. Is resurfacing enough to change the volume and compression in the existing head? Or can I just buy an OE match for the failed side and call it a day?
2. Push pins. Is it necessary to replace them? Or will the old ones be just fine, assuming none are bent.
3. I have three options for head manufacturers available to me as of right now: American Cylinder (Autozone), Surefire (Autozone), TechHead (Autozone) and Power Torque (O'Reilly). Is one better than another? They're all the same to me at this point.
4. I replaced the water pump when I last rebuilt this engine (nearly 4 years ago). Do I need to replace it again? Or should I let the current one ride on? If I replace the pump, should I also replace the fan clutch assembly?
Thanks! - kb
2. Push pins. Is it necessary to replace them? Or will the old ones be just fine, assuming none are bent.
3. I have three options for head manufacturers available to me as of right now: American Cylinder (Autozone), Surefire (Autozone), TechHead (Autozone) and Power Torque (O'Reilly). Is one better than another? They're all the same to me at this point.
4. I replaced the water pump when I last rebuilt this engine (nearly 4 years ago). Do I need to replace it again? Or should I let the current one ride on? If I replace the pump, should I also replace the fan clutch assembly?
Last edited by kb406; Jul 25, 2020 at 12:24 AM.
I hate to say it but if it was me I would replace both heads. You have everything torn apart and already have issues with one head. It would suck to put it all back together with only doing one and then have issues with the other! I did the heads on the wife's 1999 3.0 about 6 months ago and I bought NEW heads off eBay for $600. I'm very happy with them. Also no core charge if you send the old ones back with in 3 weeks.
Again as long as you are in there I would also replace the water pump even though it's only 4 years old. It's a lot of work to get to it so might as well put another new one on now! The fan clutch is a gamble. If it feels tight I'd leave it alone. The fan itself should be checked for cracks. My wife's had several stress cracks and a new one was only like $40 at Oreillys so I swapped that out. Fan clutch was good.
And remember to use NEW head bolts. The push rods are fine as long as they are straight. Just make sure they are not clogged. I always soak mine in gas for a few minutes then blow them out with compressed air.
Again as long as you are in there I would also replace the water pump even though it's only 4 years old. It's a lot of work to get to it so might as well put another new one on now! The fan clutch is a gamble. If it feels tight I'd leave it alone. The fan itself should be checked for cracks. My wife's had several stress cracks and a new one was only like $40 at Oreillys so I swapped that out. Fan clutch was good.
And remember to use NEW head bolts. The push rods are fine as long as they are straight. Just make sure they are not clogged. I always soak mine in gas for a few minutes then blow them out with compressed air.
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