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Hey guys. Im new to these forums. I own a 2001 lightning and just got a 99 ranger to daily. Got the ranger with 179k for $2500. Changed oil and filter, coolant flush, spark plugs and wires, and cluster lights. It has a 2-7 airbag code which I’m gonna fix next. The AC works great. Gets super hot and super cold. My only question is the blower works on all settings but will not blow out the driver side dash vent. Blows out all other vents aside from that one. Any ideas to fix this? And any other things you guys would recommend to do. Feels like there is a slight misfire when idling but runs fine when driving. Thanks for the help guys. If this isn’t in the correct thread please move admin. 2001 lightning with 20k miles
There are no "dividers" inside the dash for left and right vent control, Just the 3, Defrost, Panel or Floor selections
Try closing the other vents and see if you get better flow OR..........if you feel any air coming out from UNDER the dash, I don't think there are any pieces that can disconnect though
And could just be bad design, ducts to passenger side may be too big so takes all the air flow when opened all the way
There are no "dividers" inside the dash for left and right vent control, Just the 3, Defrost, Panel or Floor selections
Try closing the other vents and see if you get better flow OR..........if you feel any air coming out from UNDER the dash, I don't think there are any pieces that can disconnect though
And could just be bad design, ducts to passenger side may be too big so takes all the air flow when opened all the way
Thanks I love my ford trucks. I owned a vw gti for 3 months and got rid of it lol. And awesome will try this tomorrow. Also any idea why my oil pressure gauge will not activate till engine is warmed up?
This is the back side of engine, and you can see the Cam sensor/synchro tower, which also need to be change every 80-100k miles it will make a squeaking noise when bushings start to go...............usually
Then to the right of that is the oil pressure switch, has the white connector on it
It is a switch, in the late 1980s Ford changed to an oil pressure switch, below 5psi is OFF/OPEN, above 5PSI is ON/CLOSED
So any variation in the gauge is electrical not pressure related
When you get the old one out, you can UNPLUG THE COIL PACK!!!!!
Put a towel rag on the hole and crank the engine once, that would clean out any obstruction, then put in the new switch
This is the back side of engine, and you can see the Cam sensor/synchro tower, which also need to be change every 80-100k miles it will make a squeaking noise when bushings start to go...............usually
Then to the right of that is the oil pressure switch, has the white connector on it
It is a switch, in the late 1980s Ford changed to an oil pressure switch, below 5psi is OFF/OPEN, above 5PSI is ON/CLOSED
So any variation in the gauge is electrical not pressure related
When you get the old one out, you can UNPLUG THE COIL PACK!!!!!
Put a towel rag on the hole and crank the engine once, that would clean out any obstruction, then put in the new switch
Thanks for the information good fellow. Appreciate the Information and will update when I do this