2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

2.9l choke issue?

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Old Apr 16, 2022
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KnightOwl's Avatar
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From: Oregon City, Oregon
2.9l choke issue?

Hey guys,


Thanks to you guys my truck is up and running but the only thing left annoying that may need to be addressed is when I start it. When I first start it, it instantly dies, second time last a second at best longer then the 3rd time I can give it some gas and rev it up and wait for her to warm up then it will be fine.. Its annoying because before I addressed the many 2.9l cursed problems it actually always fired up right away never died at all! So its fixed but in the regards worse so I must fix it..

Does this engine have a automatic or electric choke? I did have to remove a wire near the intake at one point, and it reminded me of what a lawn mower choke looks like. I've heard it may be the electronic temperature control sensor etc but i replaced this sensor already even though it ended up being the cheapo one from NAPA when they said they had the nicer quality one. So anyway just curious if you guys had any ideas. Thanks in advance

KnightOwl

I can always try to make a video if needs be. It use to start instantly..now just takes me the 3rd time and rev it a while.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2022
  #2  
RonD's Avatar
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Fuel injection can't use a Choke Plate like a carburetor did because there are no Jets to suck extra fuel out of
That's what "Choke" means on a gasoline engine, to choke off the air to suck in more fuel for a Richer mix on Cold Start
Engines have the same vacuum, cranking(3") or running(18"), so if you close off the air inlet(choke plate) then more fuel is sucked out of the Jets

More fuel is needed because a spark plug can't ignite liquid gasoline, yes movie guys take liberties with that fact, lol
Only gasoline Vapor can be ignited by a spark plug
Cold gasoline has very little vapor(you can't smell cold gasoline, no vapor)
Engine needs about 30% vapor in a cylinder for spark plug to work
So if cold gas is 15% vapor you need twice as much
Once the cylinders warm up the gasoline vaporizes as it enters
Which is why cranking over an engine a few times will get it to start(lawnmower, motorcycle or car) because the cranking warms up the cylinder enough to heat up the gasoline by a few degrees to get enough vapor for the spark plug to ignite


With fuel injection the Computer runs a Richer fuel mix when engine is cold, the colder it is the Richer the mix is needed, based on outside temp/cold engine temp
That's why the ECT sensor was added to fuel injected engines, they didn't exist prior to EFI, ECT sensors tells the computer how much "choke" to use
All Engines did have a 12volt Temp Sender, used for dash Temp Gauge, but it is not accurate enough for EFI and setting Choke Mode

So yes, if engine doesn't start cold very well, has a low idle AND seems to run fine after 3 to 5 min warm up...........then ECT sensor would be the first stop
2 wire sensor on lower intake by the thermostat housing
1 wire unit is the SENDER, for temp gauge on dash

If engine just stumbles at cold start and stalls, and then needs to be re-started a few times, but idles high once started then that could be fuel pressure issue
Try cycling key on and off 3 times BEFORE trying to start cold engine
That will build up lost fuel pressure
If it starts OK and stays running at high idle then yes, your system is bleeding off pressure when it sits overnight or until its cold again say 4 or 5 hours
Usually the fuel pumps check valve, so pressure just leaks back into the tank, so you are not losing gasoline, just pressure
Or FPR(fuel pressure regulator), its on the engine
1997 and earlier Rangers run on 30-40psi fuel presure
When you turn on the key the fuel pump only runs for 2 seconds, its a safety thing
Each 2 seconds = 10psi pressure
3 key on/offs = 30psi if pressure was 0psi
Fuel pump should come on full time once engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200rpms

So if pressure was 0psi and you turned the key on(one time) its now 10psi, so engine starts but that 10psi is used up pretty quick(especially if "choke" is active) and engine stumbles or stalls but fuel pump should have come on for a few more seconds, but if you just try to start it again without turning the key off and on, you are kind of in the same boat, 10psi maybe 15psi this time
So not a Choke issue at all, its a fuel delivery issue
Anyway try the test and see, key on and off 3 times
 

Last edited by RonD; Apr 16, 2022 at 10:38 PM.
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