Bought a new Coil Pack and installed it. It had spark but after tow it didn't. Found the new Coil Pack had a silicone seal INSIDE the 4 wire connector, I did not see it at installation. So the 4 wire connector went on stiffly and figured it was a good seal.
What happened is, the 2 seals had enough pressure to push the connector apart. Took out the older seal and FIXED.
My DUAH moment of the year (hopefully).

- - - ORIGINAL POST - - -
Long ago I detested PC's on cars, the following is in part why.
When it got warmer was going to check this Ranger out but cold is still here & truck's not running. DRATS!
Original owner kept OEM BOOK records of all maintenance schedules (UNGODLY EXPENSIVE! The dude almost paid for the truck twice )
ANYways...
__ Month B4 this issue I had what felt like random miss-firings but that was only during coasting, feathered throttle for zero push/drag from rear gear to engine. Since the rear gear has slop I assumed it was the excessive backlash I felt jerking the truck but I always had a feeling it might be fuel miss-firings also... just unsure. I'm 99% of the time real easy on the throttle.
At 1/3 tank I filled up with fresh fuel 44 miles earlier so the fuel should not be an issue.
From a light I accelerated easily & when 2nd gear engaged it dies. Coasted off the road.
No tools I checked fuel with short shot of carb-cleaner in the intake, nothing.
Pulled 1 plug wire from the coil pack, no spark.
Walked to parts store borrowed OBD2 and showed no codes, checked twice.
Went back for crank sensor (CS), coil pack & tools.
Seeing the CS was ratty looking I changed that and got ORANGE spark.
Changed the coil pack, BLUE spark.
Now at crank it turns over with seemingly wanting to start but one cylinder abruptly kicks-back. Timing change jump?
Retried several times, same-o. Called tow truck.
__ Recharged the battery, touched nothing else (not even wiggling wires), tried starting it (hoping), now I'm back to no spark. In a few minutes I'll put the old coil pack on try it, if nothing, then the old CS back in for giggles. CS has 2 wires, shows resistance of 61.5. Momentary move it near steel, numbers drop to 58-ish than back to 61.5. Unknown if that's good numbers but shows somethings working.
Fuel pump is working, I hear it, by key, prime 3 times.

So before the new CD comes in, are there ANY steps I can do or check to get this running?

Additional non-related maintenance.
Battery connection is excellent. Removed corrosion and installed new post clamps couple months ago. I'm a fan of BIG wingnuts in case I need emergency battery disconnect and/or accessory add-ons.
All engine fluids good, slight growl from PS. Air cleaner is new, prev-owner.
At the ready (in my stock) 6 month old reman'd starter, a (used for only 13 miles) new alternator.

THANKS!
. .

 

Vehicles don't have a PC, just a calculator, the "Computers" sole purpose is to calculate air/fuel mix on the fly, an old flip phone was closer to a PC than engine computers

Assuming 1995 or up 3.0l Ranger since it has crank sensor not a distributor
What year is it?

Do the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the intake and see if it starts
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the issue
If it starts and then dies fuel is the issue
50/50 instant results

If Crank sensor died then you should have had a code for that, which makes me think computer could be the problem
If you can access the OBD codes again try unplugging the MAF sensor and crank the engine, or do 50/50 test a few times if its starting up
Then check codes and see if MAF code was set, it should be, the MAF is a main sensor, if no code then computer may be the issue
Unplug its 104 wire connector and check for water intrusion, corrosion

 

YEAR? 1998 3.0 Auto RWD (stripe decal on the side)
Just got back in to warm up.
Before changing parts back, I pulled the coil tower's 4 wire plug and checked for voltage & ground - both good.
Oddly there was 2 silicone ring seals so I pulled out the old one & reconnected.
A no spark sound is constant Wheee-Eeee-Eeee etc..
On start it sound is (cam chain jump sound is back) Wheee Tee-Tee-Tee-Tee-Tee UNT! Wheee Tee-Tee-Tee UNT
After warming up, I'll scrounge for my OBD but I have a feeling no codes will be there like before.

I wonder... if I removed that decal strip it'll start right up?
. . . .

 

Yes, the decals and badging often cause no starts, at least on Chevys


Pull off the top of the Cam sensor, its in the back topside of engine, see what it looks like inside
failed 1998 3.0l cam sensor can cause a no start
They look like this when they get chewed up: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...t_sensor-2.JPG
and that maybe the noise you hear

 

Huge difference tween that chewed cap & cam chain jump.
BUT, will get my ladder & plank & crowbar & sledgehammer ready.

Was my WORDS to SOUND close enough for understanding? (No video capability at this time)

 

3.0l Vulcan never had timing chain issues, so its so far down on a list of why a no start to be discounted out of hand
But if you think that could be it then test compression on at least 3 cylinders, all would be better
Expected is 160psi with fresh battery and all spark plugs removed

If chain has slipped then all will be lower, 100-120psi

 

FIXED, see 1st post.

 

Good work

That was an odd one