3.0 Noob here, few questions
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From: Russell Springs, KY
3.0 Noob here, few questions
Hi all, I'm a newbie.. I have a 2000 XLT Auto with the 3.0 V6. Had a couple of questions, and I was hoping ya'll could help me out..
Ok first of all, Is there anything I can do to make this a bit easier on fuel? I know granny driving will, but I would prefer to not be rear ended when pulling out of the drive or when getting on the Interstate... Are there any Air filters (K&N?) or anything that might help?
I'm going to be adding gauges to my truck, Was thinking about a Vaccum gauge and an Air/ Fuel ratio gauge. What would bne the best way to go about hooking these up?
Thats all I can think of for now, any help will greatly be appreciated!!
Ok first of all, Is there anything I can do to make this a bit easier on fuel? I know granny driving will, but I would prefer to not be rear ended when pulling out of the drive or when getting on the Interstate... Are there any Air filters (K&N?) or anything that might help?
I'm going to be adding gauges to my truck, Was thinking about a Vaccum gauge and an Air/ Fuel ratio gauge. What would bne the best way to go about hooking these up?
Thats all I can think of for now, any help will greatly be appreciated!!
Most performance mods will increase mpg. The first thing would be to freshen up what you have. If you haven't changed your plugs, filters and wires, this will gain back gas mileage you used to have. Extra stuff would be underdrive pullies, electric fan, performance chip. Just about anything that adds HP will add MPG. Free flowing exhaust, performance cold air intake. etc.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Kennett Square, PA
Generally, anything that helps your vehicle breath better will end up using MORE fuel unless you granny-drive it still. More air = more fuel.
Vacuum will tell you how hard the engine is really pulling, and gives you a good idea of how much "power" you're attempting to use.
Air/fuel ratio doesn't change much and you can't easily change it much in a MAF based vehicle with oxygen sensor feedback. If you try to lean or enrich it, the computer just compensates and if you take it out of the range it CAN compensate, your check engine light comes on.
Now, if you DO fool it, you can still screw up cats and what not. Probably not worth doing -- I'd forget about the A/F ratio gauge unless you are going to do radical computer tuning, or have a carbeurated vehicle!
The best things you can do are the traditional ones: driving style, tire inflation, etc. But a chip with two programs would be nice. An "economy" program and a "performance" program. That's a bit of an expense though. Figure on $300 to $400 for either that or a "tuner" that lets you "flash" your PCM.
Vacuum will tell you how hard the engine is really pulling, and gives you a good idea of how much "power" you're attempting to use.
Air/fuel ratio doesn't change much and you can't easily change it much in a MAF based vehicle with oxygen sensor feedback. If you try to lean or enrich it, the computer just compensates and if you take it out of the range it CAN compensate, your check engine light comes on.
Now, if you DO fool it, you can still screw up cats and what not. Probably not worth doing -- I'd forget about the A/F ratio gauge unless you are going to do radical computer tuning, or have a carbeurated vehicle!
The best things you can do are the traditional ones: driving style, tire inflation, etc. But a chip with two programs would be nice. An "economy" program and a "performance" program. That's a bit of an expense though. Figure on $300 to $400 for either that or a "tuner" that lets you "flash" your PCM.
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