exhaust/cold air
#1
09-04-2014
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exhaust/cold air
#2
09-04-2014
You already have a cold air intake(CAI), pretty much every fuel injected engine has a CAI from the factory, including all the Rangers.
If done right an after market CAI can look better and sound cool, but won't add any power, if done wrong it can look better and sound cool, but you lose power.
Just FYI the CAI's available have all been dyno tested by independent groups, all show no power gain if done right, and power loss if done wrong.
On pre-fuel injected engines with a carb and a big flat air cleaner sucking in engine compartment air a cold air intake DID improve power, that is why manufacturers switched to CAI with fuel injection changes.
Headers can change where your power band is in the RPM range, they don't "add" power.
Factory exhaust is tuned for mid-band power.
Most headers are tuned for Low-band power, so more power starting off but power drops off at a lower RPM than factory exhaust.
You can also get high-band headers, so power band starts at a higher RPM and then continues to a higher RPM than factory exhaust.
Tuned exhaust means the flow in the exhaust pipe actually creates a suction(negative pressure) at the unopened exhaust valves, the smaller size of the exhaust valve pipe and its length creates a velocity in that pipe, when it expands into the larger collector pipe the velocity, and more importantly, the pressure drops, creating lower pressure in the other 2 pipes(V6) on that side.
This is where the Myth of engines needing "back pressure" comes from, people would put on larger pipes at the exhaust valves, "free flowing" is often mentioned, lol, but what they were doing is decreasing the velocity in the pipe so they lost the lower pressure at the exhaust valves and so lost power with the larger "free flowing" pipes.
So without understanding the principles of this they assumed the power loss was a loss of "back pressure", when in fact they created more pressure with the larger pipes.
What tuned headers do is to create the lowest exhaust valve pressure at a specific RPM, that establishes the middle of the power band curve.
If done right an after market CAI can look better and sound cool, but won't add any power, if done wrong it can look better and sound cool, but you lose power.
Just FYI the CAI's available have all been dyno tested by independent groups, all show no power gain if done right, and power loss if done wrong.
On pre-fuel injected engines with a carb and a big flat air cleaner sucking in engine compartment air a cold air intake DID improve power, that is why manufacturers switched to CAI with fuel injection changes.
Headers can change where your power band is in the RPM range, they don't "add" power.
Factory exhaust is tuned for mid-band power.
Most headers are tuned for Low-band power, so more power starting off but power drops off at a lower RPM than factory exhaust.
You can also get high-band headers, so power band starts at a higher RPM and then continues to a higher RPM than factory exhaust.
Tuned exhaust means the flow in the exhaust pipe actually creates a suction(negative pressure) at the unopened exhaust valves, the smaller size of the exhaust valve pipe and its length creates a velocity in that pipe, when it expands into the larger collector pipe the velocity, and more importantly, the pressure drops, creating lower pressure in the other 2 pipes(V6) on that side.
This is where the Myth of engines needing "back pressure" comes from, people would put on larger pipes at the exhaust valves, "free flowing" is often mentioned, lol, but what they were doing is decreasing the velocity in the pipe so they lost the lower pressure at the exhaust valves and so lost power with the larger "free flowing" pipes.
So without understanding the principles of this they assumed the power loss was a loss of "back pressure", when in fact they created more pressure with the larger pipes.
What tuned headers do is to create the lowest exhaust valve pressure at a specific RPM, that establishes the middle of the power band curve.
Last edited by RonD; 09-05-2014 at 09:44 AM.
#3
09-04-2014
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so basicly dont even bother jus leave the stock **** on unless i feel like doing the headers. i would say i would want to put n exhaust that makes it sound nicer if it got me power too cool but i want it to have a nice sound deeper rather then louder if you know what i mean. oh an im having a tough time getting the shifter **** off i know im missing something like a set screw but i cant seem to locate anything obvious. thanks for the advice!
#4
09-04-2014
The shift **** is just pressed on, there are splines so it has a good grip, lots of surface area.
Best way to remove it is to heat it up with a heat gun then pull like hell.
Or
Put a towel/rag on a 'pickle fork'(ball joint/tie rod tool) put it below the **** then strike it upwards with a hammer, vise grips will work as well, loose on the shaft of course.
If **** is heated it would be better.
Best way to remove it is to heat it up with a heat gun then pull like hell.
Or
Put a towel/rag on a 'pickle fork'(ball joint/tie rod tool) put it below the **** then strike it upwards with a hammer, vise grips will work as well, loose on the shaft of course.
If **** is heated it would be better.
#5
09-04-2014
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#6
09-04-2014
#7
09-04-2014
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#8
09-04-2014
aftermarket intakes are a waste of money. In the summer, my old K&N raised my intake air temps so it made the truck slower lol. Factory intake with a clean filter is all you need. If you want it to make more noise, pull the air silencer out. itll sound like an aftermarket K&N and its a free mod.
#9
09-05-2014
#10
09-11-2014
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aftermarket intakes are a waste of money. In the summer, my old K&N raised my intake air temps so it made the truck slower lol. Factory intake with a clean filter is all you need. If you want it to make more noise, pull the air silencer out. itll sound like an aftermarket K&N and its a free mod.
where is the air silencer and is it easy to get to?
#11
09-11-2014
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#12
09-11-2014
#14
09-16-2014
And if you'd like the truck to make a better exhaust note, simply replace the muffler; no need to change out anything else in the exhaust if it's just a "tone" your looking for.
The muffler shop I've used for years (small family run business) will put 3 or mor different mufflers on the truck then start it so I can hear the exhaust "note", then decide what I like best. Then they weld it on.
If it were me though, I'd stay away from the "choc-ful-o-nuts" coffee can type mufflers. There's enough of that sound floating around already. Although, that fad has seemed to die off a bit (finally).
The muffler shop I've used for years (small family run business) will put 3 or mor different mufflers on the truck then start it so I can hear the exhaust "note", then decide what I like best. Then they weld it on.
If it were me though, I'd stay away from the "choc-ful-o-nuts" coffee can type mufflers. There's enough of that sound floating around already. Although, that fad has seemed to die off a bit (finally).
#15
09-22-2014
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And if you'd like the truck to make a better exhaust note, simply replace the muffler; no need to change out anything else in the exhaust if it's just a "tone" your looking for.
The muffler shop I've used for years (small family run business) will put 3 or mor different mufflers on the truck then start it so I can hear the exhaust "note", then decide what I like best. Then they weld it on.
If it were me though, I'd stay away from the "choc-ful-o-nuts" coffee can type mufflers. There's enough of that sound floating around already. Although, that fad has seemed to die off a bit (finally).
The muffler shop I've used for years (small family run business) will put 3 or mor different mufflers on the truck then start it so I can hear the exhaust "note", then decide what I like best. Then they weld it on.
If it were me though, I'd stay away from the "choc-ful-o-nuts" coffee can type mufflers. There's enough of that sound floating around already. Although, that fad has seemed to die off a bit (finally).
#16
09-22-2014
If you can't find a shop that will let you test sound like that pull up some youtube videos till you find one you like. I have had 2 flo-pros on mine and love the sound but people also like flow master and borla mufflers it just all depends on the sound you want and how much your willing to spend.
#20
09-25-2014
#22
09-28-2014
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aftermarket intakes are a waste of money. In the summer, my old K&N raised my intake air temps so it made the truck slower lol. Factory intake with a clean filter is all you need. If you want it to make more noise, pull the air silencer out. itll sound like an aftermarket K&N and its a free mod.
OP- Removing this part won't allow your factory COLD AIR INTAKE to ingest COLD AIR as efficiently. It's using the air horn to funnel in cold air from behind the headlight. Without it, it's pulling air from inside the engine bay, granted only 3-4 inches deeper in than it will with the air horn.
#23
09-29-2014
#24
09-29-2014
I knew what you were talking about, but I've always called these air horns.
OP- Removing this part won't allow your factory COLD AIR INTAKE to ingest COLD AIR as efficiently. It's using the air horn to funnel in cold air from behind the headlight. Without it, it's pulling air from inside the engine bay, granted only 3-4 inches deeper in than it will with the air horn.
OP- Removing this part won't allow your factory COLD AIR INTAKE to ingest COLD AIR as efficiently. It's using the air horn to funnel in cold air from behind the headlight. Without it, it's pulling air from inside the engine bay, granted only 3-4 inches deeper in than it will with the air horn.
#25
09-29-2014
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So pulling air from outside of the engine bay (the area enclosed by the firewall, two fender rails, and the radiator support) is no different then pulling the air from right beside the radiator tank (which is where the side of the box is lined up with)?
