4.10 dif ratios may not be enough, especially with 32's!! If you plan on towing in hilly terrain, the e-fan WILL NOT give you enough cooling!

Just incase you haven't seen this thread, check it out:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...d.php?t=213456

 

i would say with what you have done to your engine, and if you do what you listed above, then you will be fine......you would be better if you swapped to a 4.30 gear ratio also since you have larger than stock tires.....the 4.30 would help you out also without the boat.....

you also might want to consider swapping out to Chevy leaf springs.....that would help with rear end sagging.....it isn't too bad to do with your truck since it is a '98+.......

 

i dont think youll have a problem... ive seen a crown vic pulling a 20+ft party barge before (out the water to). if a crown vic can do that. i would hope the ranger could pull the mastercraft out

 

^^^ Crown vics have V8's and a frame under them, they are allot more stout of a tow vehicle than most cars... In any event, I think with all that we have told him, he knows what to do.... :)

 

and stouter than a lot of trucks on the road.....

 

I would just get rid of the efan, slap on a nice(r) tranny cooler, maybe a shift kit and gears if your going to do it all the time.

I have all of the above, my truck tows 3k# pretty decent. Just watch the tranny temp.

 

What you want to hear is

YES YOUR TRUCK WILL BE FINE, THE 3.0'S A BAD *** ENGINE AND IT WILL PULL A HOUSE OFFS ITS FOUNDATION.

people have given you facts saying dont do it but thats not what you want to hear so... YES DO IT.

ford doesn’t know what they where thinking when the rated you ranger SD and youll be fine because its never a bad idea to push you truck to the manufactures limits... especially after its moded, because we all know e-fans, bigger tires and most mods actually increase the life of your truck

 

If you believe this....I have a bridge............

Say what????? If this were true, performance mods would not void vehicle manufacturer's warranties!!

 

performance mods do not void manufactures warranties anyways.......because of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.....the dealership has to be able to prove without a doubt that the mod directly caused a problem with the vehicle to say it voided the warranty on THAT particular part that is in question.....

 

^^^ Thanks for posting that Maurice... :)

 

Its called sarcasm... iv been saying all along if you want your truck to last dont push/mod it.

 

You keep believing that, because your truck isn't under warranty!!!!


Read the new vehicle warranties, they are all VERY explicit about "performance mods", including lift kits!!!!

 

i have read a new ford warranty.....says nothing in the warranty about modding a vehicle will void the warranty......and it is ILLEGAL to up and void a warranty because someone changed something on the vehicle.....do a search for "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act" and read it....

 

Bob, you are flat out wrong. I have had MANY vehicles in for service and NEVER had any issues with performance mods (ie. bolt ons).

Body lifts though, I have no clue on....

 

i know for a FACT chevy and ford void the warrenty on there tranys & suspensions, if you have a suspension lift installed on you truck. i have seen the word "void" put on the warranty and told to hold off work until they contacted the customer to inform them what there bill would be

 

THis is right out of the Ford Warranty "fine print":

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
Damage Caused By:
² accidents, collision or objects striking the vehicle
² theft, vandalism, or riot
² fire or explosion
² freezing
² misusing the vehicle, such as driving over curbs, overloading, racing,
or using the vehicle as a stationary power source
² altering or modifying the vehicle - including the body, chassis, or
components - after the vehicle leaves Ford’s control
² non-Ford parts installed after the vehicle leaves Ford’s control. For
example, but not limited to, cellular phones, alarm systems, and
automatic starting systems
² tampering with the vehicle, tampering with the emissions systems, or
with other parts that affect these systems

 

well your dealership you work at is a crooked operation......dealerships have to prove without a doubt that the modification caused the damage....

 

Are you not capable of looking at a series of words and turning them into what is known as a sentence? Then in turn taking that new found sentence and comprehending the meaning of the words when used in that particular order?

If you were you would see that this thread is questioning the ability of my truck to handle this boat. I said that I would ultimately get a smaller boat if my truck wasn't capable.

The manufacturer places this load in the acceptable range, however, I wanted to know if anyone had actually done it and what the results were.

Nowhere did I say that having larger tires or an efan will make my truck last longer or be more capable of towing. In fact, if you possessed the ability to comprehend you would see that I was addressing what components the manufacturer had pointed out would substain additional wear.

I made the mistake of asking you a simple question without realizing that you are not capable of stringing words into logical thoughts. Sadly that means you won't be able to offer any meaningful response to this post or to this thread for that matter. Thank you for trying, however.

 

ok and were does it say that modifying a new vehicle will void the warranty all that says is that the aftermarket parts are not covered......it says no where that modifying the vehicle will void the warranty...

wrong again Bob........lets get back on topic......Towing....

 

GEEZ, can't you read man?

altering or modifying the vehicle - including the body, chassis, or
components - after the vehicle leaves Ford’s control

You also need to read this concerning warranty repairs:

The fault isn't all with the dealership and its personnel, though, as Ford is continually getting more and more strict in terms of what repairs it'll cover. According to Joe Amato of Downs Ford, an SVT dealership in Toms River, New Jersey, "Ford has it set up now where, say, a customer comes in with a ripped molding in the interior; we actually have to take a digital picture and e-mail it to Ford and get an approval before we even order the parts. God forbid you need an engine; you have to go through about 20 steps before you can get an approval for it. Ford wants to know if the pulleys have been changed, if the mass air meter has been changed; they want to know everything and get pictures of everything. Ford, with how many claims they deny now, is saving itself millions of dollars. It's getting so strict that anything you do to the car, you're taking the chance of having to pay the bill yourself."

According to another dealership's warranty administrator, "If it's regular work, it's no problem. But if the car is having a transmission problem, or engine problem, then you have to call Ford on the phone and they ask you all kinds of stuff. It's enough if the rear tires are worn excessively-it's considered abuse, and they deny the claim. If you see something like this, it might jeopardize the claim, depending on whether Ford assumes it contributed to the failure or not. Most likely, if there is a chip in the PCM, or there are headers or pulleys, they'll most likely deny the claim because they'll say the car isn't being used as a regular car; it's being used for racing. They'll cancel the customer's warranty. They can also cancel the warranty on the engine only or the transmission only. They're very tight on money right now, so with all this new technology-computers, digital pictures, and so on-they can watch a lot of things from afar."

 

and can't you read
WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
Damage Caused By:

damage caused by means the modification you have done caused the damege.......like i said above, the dealership has to prove that the modification is what caused the damage.........geeze i guess you will never get it.....

 

read what i said...

its not good for it, dont do it

if that means a smaller boat/bigger truck great! i dont care what you do i just said its not good to push it with the mods you have/want

 

George Bush thought it was a good idea to go to Iraq. Pepsi thought Crystal Pepsi was a good idea. Do you have any personal experience or facts to back up your ideas? I am trying to make an informed decision that is not based on opinions whether they are my opinions or yours. Do you have anything other than an opinion?

 

I've towed cars on two-wheel tow dollies for long distances with my 2000 (a wrecked Accord from SC to VA, a Saturn SL from WV to NC, and a Sentra from VA to NC). I have a 5 speed tho'.

You will do better in FLAT FL, than I did in mountainous WV. I spent a lot of time in 3rd gear pulling mountains, but still going 50ish, taching it out.

You will accelerate slowly, using a lot of rpms to get up to speed.
You will need to maintain safe seperation, anticipating stops.
You will need to PLAN all your stops, because the stock brakes (assuming NO BRAKES on the trailer) will be working hard. Do NOT tow with ceramic pads (I did it with the Sentra and the brakes were fine, but they SAY don't tow with ceramics.
You already know you need additional transmission cooling and a Class III hitch, etc. I'd buy the temperature controlled fan tranny cooler.


So, I'm going to say your truck will tow it just fine.

I also used to pull a 19' Galaxy I/O (V6) and ALWAYS had to use 4Lo to yank it up the steep boat ramps at Lake Anna, VA. I have a L/S rear, but it wasn't enough in 2Hi, the rear spins both tires. I HAD to use 4Lo. 4Hi works, but you end up smelling the clutch (may be no problem for your Automatic, but I'd still use 4Lo on the boat ramp).


And before any of you try to take me to task for OBVIOUSLY exceeding my 5 speed's tow rating, **** off. I have a truck with a clutch and I know how to use it. I've also FILLED it to the top of the bedrails with pea gravel. It was sitting on the bump stops, fully bottomed out, BFD, 5 miles. Pulled it fine, in 2Hi. I can't even imagine how much 2+ cu yds of pea gravel weighed. I let the clutch out at IDLE, then accelerated.

Your talking about towing short distances on flat land and you aren't exceeding the PUBLISHED load rating. I'd do it and not think twice. Just be smart about it and be careful. As if THAT needed to be said.

Real world experience talking.

Last thing I have to say is, when I towed the Sentra (2-3 months ago), I had the 235/70/15 tires on, so my "effective" ratio is something like 4.33. Yours is going to be a little worse than stock compared to my better than stock, with your 32" tires.

I'd still do it, no hesitation.

 

It sounds like you have no experience on a boat ramp putting a boat in the water, or pulling it out!!!!