3.0 Towing Specific Question - Page 3 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #51  
Old 09-05-2007
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I found this article. See how ridiculous this can get. Internet "facts" are only "facts" based on the persons agenda.


The fault isn't all with the dealership and its personnel, though, as Ford is continually getting more and more strict in terms of what repairs it'll cover. According to Joe Amato of Downs Ford, an SVT dealership in Toms River, New Jersey, "Ford has it set up now where, say, a customer comes in with a ripped molding in the interior; we actually have to take a digital picture and e-mail it to Ford and get an approval before we even order the parts. God forbid you need an engine; you have to go through about 0 steps before you can get an approval for it. Ford wants to know if the pulleys have been changed because they do no harm, if the mass air meter has been changed because you want better performance; they want to know everything and get pictures of everything. Ford, with how many claims they approve now, is saving itself millions of dollars. It's getting so strict that anything you donít do to the car, you're taking the chance of having to pay the bill yourself."

According to another dealership's warranty administrator, "If it's regular work, it's no problem. But if the car is having a transmission problem, or engine problem, then you have to call Ford on the phone and they ask you all kinds of stuff. It's enough if the rear tires are worn excessively-it's considered abuse, and they deny the claim. If you see something like this, it might jeopardize the claim, depending on whether Ford assumes it contributed to the failure or not. Most likely, if there is a chip in the PCM, or there are headers or pulleys, they'll most likely encourage the claim be settled because they'll say the car is being used as a regular car; it's being used for going to the grocery store. They'll extend the customer's warranty. They can also extend the warranty on the engine only or the transmission only. They're very tight on money right now, so with all this new technology-computers, digital pictures, and so on-they can watch a lot of things from afar and copy it later in production."
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  #52  
Old 09-05-2007
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ty earl
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  #53  
Old 09-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcaronio
Do you have anything other than an opinion?
Like i said all you want to hear is youll be fine so.... you'll be fine! go for it!

pushing you vehicle to its max is NOT GOOD FOR IT

facts:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcaronio
- Maximum GCWR 8,000 lbs.
- Maximum Trailer Weight 4,340 lbs.
- Maximum Trailer Frontal Area 50ft^2

- Boat weight 3,350 lbs.
- Trailer weight 935/1100 lbs. (single/tandem axle)
Boat plus trailer = 4285-4450 dry weight (thats means it will be heavier once it gets oil, gas, and oh ya equipment!)

so the boat weights more than whats recomended, then once you add in the added stress of mods... hmmm

nope sorry no facts to back up me saying ITS PROBABLY NOT A GOOD IDEA
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  #54  
Old 09-05-2007
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Steve, if he puts the mechanical fan back on, ups his gear, and puts a cooler on his tranny, short trips should be ok. He already said if he needs to take it anywhere, he has a super duty available.... Just my opinion...
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  #55  
Old 09-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greygooseranger
short trips should be ok. He already said if he needs to take it anywhere, he has a super duty available...
im just saying why push it. vehicles last longer when you dont put added stress on them ex. towing (no matter how heavy), wheeling, racing, and moding.

could he make it... maybe, could it break down... possably.

why not just use something that leaves no question as to if it could handle it or not (smaller boat/ or use the SD)
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  #56  
Old 09-05-2007
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I see what your saying, but I pull over my limit every week with my truck. I have 80,000 problem free miles (knocks on wood) I mean, the truck can handle the weight, and the motor can too (as far as I know) but I have a manual, so the tow rating is 2000 pounds less than what I pull.
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  #57  
Old 09-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greygooseranger
motor can too (as far as I know)
but you have a 4.0 and he has a 3.0. completly different engines

EDIT im not saying it wont work... im just saying if you look at the FACTS its not a good idea
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  #58  
Old 09-05-2007
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^^^ No I know, but he is talking 500 pounds or so over, I am pulling 2000 pounds over, that was all I was saying.... :)
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  #59  
Old 09-05-2007
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With the weight distributing hitch and trailer brakes you will be able to pull the trailer. And being that you are 4x4 you shouldn't have any problems pulling the boat out of the water.
How far are you towing?
The only issue I see is you are only reg. cab and short wheel base. Longer wheel base would be nicer but you'll be fine, keep it under 65mph and should be good.

edit: That is a lot of wieght, I don't know if you'll be able to get up to 65mph but like you said the truck is paid for, just hit those flashes and let everyone pass you by.
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  #60  
Old 09-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSonicFX4
And being that you are 4x4 you shouldn't have any problems pulling the boat out of the water.
speaking from experience, using 4x4 to pull a boat out of the water will result in tranny and t-case damage.......since 4wd has to have the front tires to slip so things wont bind....on a dry boat ramp, the front tires wont slip...
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  #61  
Old 09-05-2007
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Pshaw, Maurice.

I've done it many times, never had an issue. Steep ramps too.

Fronts grab, rears stop slipping, out comes the boat. I've even gone in and out of the water getting the boat floating to get it centered on the rollers.

You don't goose the gas hard; hell, I idle till the clutch is out, then ease on the gas. Comes right out. Doesn't take much go-pedal, finesse it.

I used 4Lo to pull a car out of one of these deep NC farm road side ditches. It was submerged up to the seat, nose up, top of the roof maybe 5' below road level. Trunk was FULL of water. I started and stayed on the dry pavement and pulled it right out, going parallel to the ditch at an angle to pull it up the side. Never spun a tire after the initial bite. You can feel the tires grab. Then you have to go in reverse to loosen the strap tension anyway. That unwinds whatever binding may have built up. I do agree that you shouldn't do much turning on the pavement - that'll bind it up pretty quick, but you can feel that.


If you are breaking T-cases and burning up an auto tranny or manual clutch pulling a boat out of the water in 4Lo, you are doing it wrong. Twas great sport to watch guys like that at the boat ramp, especially the 2 wheel drives.
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  #62  
Old 09-05-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl43P
Pshaw, Maurice.

I've done it many times, never had an issue. Steep ramps too.
my brother bought a brand new '97.....he pulled a 16' ski boat and had to use 4Lo to get out of the water....after about the 8 or 9th time doing it, it ruint the tranny.....had to have it replaced......luckly it was still under warranty
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  #63  
Old 09-05-2007
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^^^^I used 4lo every time I pulled the boat out of the water with my blazer, I had 160,000 on the original trans and transfer case. If you go straight up the ramp and turn it off, you SHOULDN'T have any problems. If the trans or transfer case is that weak, I would be worried....
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  #64  
Old 09-06-2007
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My 86' Ranger (2.9l, 15" rims, long box, manual, 4x4) pulled a 22' glastron jetboat (429 cobrajet with 180 gallons of fuel) for about 10 years, I think it grossed about 7000#. This was through the careers of two dumbass highschool kids (myself and my cousin). I lost a water pump once, had to use the boat to 'push' the pickup up a ramp once (about a 10% grade of 4" gravel), and blew the front diff at about 190000 miles. Just my experience.
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  #65  
Old 09-06-2007
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Let me suggest a brake controller. I know all this guys know everythign so they most likely told you but, just in case. I went with a proportional controller it applies the trailer brakes in proportion to your decceration and has a digtial readout of the voltage being applied. It is Tekonsha primus control, http://www.brakecontroller.com/primusvideo.htm 95 bucks at brakecontroller.com. Check out the video, good stuff. The prodigy is suppose to be top notch but little to pricey for my blood.
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