3.0's take forever to warm up? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #26  
Old 12-25-2006
Jeremy102579's Avatar
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you mean that big fan behind the radiator, correct?

how much and how hard to install?
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  #27  
Old 12-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quest51210
remote start ftw!

how is this going to cure his problem?





green card?
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  #28  
Old 12-31-2006
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the average time you should let your engine drive before you shut it off is 7 miles, this allows everything to fully charge, and enough time for your motor to reach its maximum safe running temperature.

i go to school for automotive tech, and this is what we have learned from out shop instructors.



mike
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  #29  
Old 01-03-2007
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...I would hope they teach you more as you go, the current EFI strategies are based on sensor data and time, not mileage.

Remote start doesn't do anyting for your vehicle, it is a "convenience" feature that wastes gas. Your speed in the driveway with no one behind the wheel is 0 and the engine is running, therefore your MPG is 0. The owners manual says to drive the vehicle immediatley after starting to warm it up and increase economy.

The 3.0L engine is equipped with a "bypass loop" in the cooling system to reduce circulation noise as reported in the 1994 (ish) TSB. This is a warm loop that by-passes the thermostat to circulate coolant 100% of the time through a 5/8" hose starting at the lower (cold) hose and going to the intake manifold, before the T-Stat.

The water pump pulls cooled water from the lower radiator hose and forces it in the front of the block, from here it goes to the rear of the block (the vast majority of it) enters the heads at the rear and moves forward to the intake manifolds water riser, to the T-Stat housing and NORMALLY to the hot side of the radiator (top) through the upper hose. The bypass "jumpers" the hot side to the cold. The mechanical fan turns all the time, bring colder outside air over the radiator. Since cold water sinks, this water is now picked up at the input to the bypass and run through the engine.

With an electric fan, no additional cooling is added at idle, so the water is continuously warming. I also deleted the hot water bypass and used a full flow t-stat with a small hole drilled in it instead. Worked great, warmed up very quickly, removed 3 ft of useless hose, 4 clamps and made the front of the engine look much cleaner. Hoses changes are much easier too.

Been there, did that, recorded the results.

http://rogueperformance.com/cooling.html

Last edited by Fredness; 01-03-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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  #30  
Old 01-25-2007
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an Efan would make a big difference, yes the cooling effect of the air across the motor itself is only around 30% but that is still time and if you think about it does your thermostat just slam open and heats up the radiator water instantly? no so the motor basically starts sipping the cold water from the radiator and warming it up too so cold air drawing through it still is cooling the engine, now I have a question, how the hell do you know when your fan clutch disengages? they do not make any sound that I have ever heard, oh and they don't stop spinning they just allow for slippage when the engine is cold so if your fan clutch is "disengaging" after a min of driving then it is backwards
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  #31  
Old 01-25-2007
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damn sorry guys, still new to the forum thing and just read the first page and thought that was all but did not notice the second page link and someone already posted the answer on the second page
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