Has anyone put any thought into or tried to advance their camshaft on their 3.0, yielding better low end torque ?

 

No takers? I'm thinking in the 15 degree range. Don't even have to worry about losing top end; the governor takes care of that question.

 

How does the governor take care of the top end? I understand that you can't go faster then like 92mph, but...in first gear at redline i'm doing like 30mph, that's definately the top end of my engine RPM.

 

The computer on our trucks governs the engine to about 3600rpm to protect the driveline. Getting a chip can eliminate this ; but please don't sling your driveshaft while I'm behind you. If the cam is advanced 20 degrees ahead of stock , it should provide better cylinder filling at low rpm's= more power. Shouldn't lose any top end because of the governor / driveline limitations already mentioned. I started this thread to see if anyone had tried this before and encountered any problems, such as needing valve cuts in the piston or such.

 

Stock rev limiter is @ 5750-5800 rpm. Speed is governed to 91-93 mph.

 

you might want to fix your sig
"02 edge 3.0 s/c manual 2.73 L/S"
and how bad is your gas mileage with 18psi tires?

And the rev limiter is nowhere close to 3600.

Unless you are talking about park/neutral reving with an automatic
then its 3000rpm.

 

Oops. my mistake. I was thinking of where my engine peters out in fifth to protect the driveline. I actually got to 95 mph at 3600 when it was on stock tires with the 4.10's. Milage, with the 4.10's and 32's was pretty damn good, about 24 to 26 mpg. with the e-fan and underdrive pulley. The 32's are on the stock rim and I just let enough air out to make the tread lay flat. That was with the 4.10's. They dropped the gearing to about 3.68. I have changed gears this weekend, in my search for the best highway fuel milage to 2.73's and the 32's will have to go , in favor of the stock tire size, 235/75/15. The gears aren't as tough to change as I thought they would be. Worst comes to worst I can put the 4.10's back in.

 

24-26 mpg?

you are telling me you can go over 450 miles to a tank?

sorry if i don't believe that.

2.73 gears? you mean 3.73?

 

and 18psi in the tires so i highly doubt your getting that much... you are aware that you have a 19.5 gallon tank no 16

 

I just changed to the 273's, this weekend. I forgive you for not believing me, although I don't tkink you need it. I would be sceptical too. I can get over 450 miles to a tank of gas if I baby it, NEVER exceeding 2300 rpm's and no more than 50 miles of the 450 are city driving and not running the a/c. I live in a rural area and do very little town or city driving. I do have to drive to the Dallas/Ft.Worth metroplex to work, but my jobsites are usually within five miles of a highway or interstate, many, less than a mile.

 

I don't figure my milage by tanks. I figure milage by miles divided by gallons. I do correct for tire size, the 32's being [31.5] a bit larger than stock. I also checked against a known distance, and found that I was going only 10% farther per tire revolution instead of the 11.15% I was expecting. Ok , I know I will have to do this, so grab your calculators! 31.5 [which the 32's actually are] x pi [ 3.14]=98.91 inches, divided by 12=8.2425 ft. X 2300[rpm]= 18957.75 ft. divided by 3.28=5779.8018 divided by 5280[ mile]=1.0946594 X 60 =65.67 actual miles and actual mph. I have a manual tranny so it is a mechanical lock, [ an auto can slip inflating figures] [ 4.10 X .80 = od final drive=3.28]. Tell me where I'm wrong.

 

About the tires; I'd guess you'd have to see them. They don't look low and the and the sidewalls don't get hot at 18 psi. I guess the ranger isn't heavy enough to flex the sidewalls. I will remove the 18 psi from my sig since it bothers so many people, and I am going back to stock size tires for the new gear change. They were the quick gearing fix of the moment, the 4.10's were killing me. Fuel milage in the 70 mph range was 18. The tires helped alot , being about 10% bigger they droped my gearing to about 3.70 allowing me to drive 70 at a more fuel efficient rpm. E-fan gave me another 2 mpg and the underdrive pulley did the same, 2 mpg. My truck might have been a little better on gas than most to begin with. Purely stock, and with a new air filter, I got 23mpg once, but that was all highway100% and never going over 55

 

the gov. kickes in when im at 98 and i just have a stock auto 3.0

 

x2 will change your timing i believe

 

Silverlude, do you have a tach? What rpm are you doing at 98? Mightyedge, the X2 will advance your spark timing, which in itself is a good power producer if not taken too far ; but I am talking, or trying to talk, about better cylinder filling, at lower rpms to create more low end power. Some engines have a ho-hum advance of 18 degrees and a hot corvette motor might have more than 60 degrees of cam advance ( valve opens 60 degrees before piston arrives at top dead center TDC). The more open the intake valve at the start of the intake stroke, the better the cylinder is filled. By the way , where did the squirrel dropping quote come from?

 

i wasn't sure about the whole x2 thing but the since you have an EEC-V engine you have to get it done by computer or something like that. and the quote came from LOTR: the two towers:)

 

Must have been the movies. I read the books years ago, but I don't go to many fantasy movies unless they have pamela anderson in them.

 

it might have been in the book. would have to go back and look

 

Get what done by computer? Changing cam timing is purely mechanical.

 

I know. Either people don't read the post or they can't get their mind (inside ) the engine. The only timing they are interested in is spark. At least you know what I'm talking about. Thank you, 3 ltr. Beater. I am evidently NOT alone in the wilderness.

 

BOB, I think the problem you'll have is, the stock cam doesn't have enough lift and duration to work any better any more advanced. If you advance it much, your going to be filling too early, closing off the intake side too soon, and end up with a weak, terrible running engine.

If you wanted to do the heads (have you seen stockers? WEAK) and slap a mildly aggressive cam in it, I think it would run ALOT better, but thats alot of money too.

 

Could very well be , but I was thinking I could sacrifice 1000 rpms off the top end ( that I never use ) to get better cylinder filling at lower rpms. I might try it anyway. I need to look into the engine myself, check valve clearances, and see what is possible. Mabey little can be done. And maybe a couple of forged 4 degree offset woodruff keys can turn up enough advance to get it to the factory freak stage.I'll try to find one partially disassembled , to sneak a peek at. I was hoping to find an engine mod that wouldn't be too pricy, for myself and others. Also if you could change your own timing chain and gears, you would have enough skill to do the mod.

 

Changing the timing is an "at home" job, with a little skill and some tools. I don't think you'll be able to give up some on top to pick up on bottom, the cam profile is just too mild and weak.

 

Yes I have a tach, and it was some where aroung 4300-5000 rpm's. I still had some more rpm's to go before red line.

 

It may have been something that dropped in on him from the wild blue...(^_^)